Door reveals float and set.

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FreeD

FreeD

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Hi all

I'm preping a new extension for float and set on one wall i've got a door which leads outside from the kitchen.

Internally i have put angle beads on either side of the door onto breezeblock...

but i'm wondering what to do on the reveal above the door where the lintel is...do i put an angle bead here also and line it up with the 2 side beads?

and on the lintel do i put eml and then plaster over it with Sand + Cement?

thanks

Aaron :-/
 
Hi all

I'm preping a new extension for float and set on one wall i've got a door which leads outside from the kitchen.

Internally i have put angle beads on either side of the door onto breezeblock...

but i'm wondering what to do on the reveal above the door where the lintel is...do i put an angle bead here also and line it up with the 2 side beads?

and on the lintel do i put eml and then plaster over it with Sand + Cement?

thanks

Aaron  :-/
Click to expand...

i think u do but ive never been in that situation so dont quote me but surley u must :-*
 
Is it compulsory to use S&C - Most extensions I've done have been dabbed out - just a thought ?? Easier to do and the lintel can then be hidden with plasterboard
 
try using exmet render beads on the sides and dab a board to the lintel level with the render beads...
when you come to skim it stick some thincote beads all the way round, over the render beads and board edge..
or if you dont wanna do that, use render beads for the sides as before, dab the head and use a thincote stop on the board prior to hardwalling/rendering
 
yea dont know why the builder wants sand and cement...was gonna ask him but then thought it would be good practice for me to float and set...

so fix a bead obove the door i also thought that its the only way will have to hold it in place with nails i guess dont think sand and cement will hold it in place...by the time i fixed all these beads on i could have boarded the lot out lol
 
try using exmet render beads on the sides and dab a board to the lintel level with the render beads...
when you come to skim it stick some thincote beads all the way round, over the render beads and board edge..
or if you dont wanna do that, use render beads for the sides as before, dab the head and use a thincote stop on the board prior to hardwalling/rendering
Click to expand...

i thought sand cement was old skool for internal wouldnt it just be hardwall ?
 
same here mate unless theres damp issues use hardwall and if you do dab the head set it back 3mm from the angle beads to allow for the skim bead
 
it is, but the customers always right, you have to be able to use render, hardwall, d+d, whatever they want...
in fact if its built in thermalites, it wants dabbin really...
 
not sure what its built with but when putting the beads on today i found that the sand and cement was not taking to what looked like breezeblocks very well...

I thought i couldn't mix sand and cement and plasterboard...but your saying i can dab plasterboard to the head and set it back 3mm and then sand and cement around it?
 
to be honest, if theres closers involved just dab all three sides, theyll be rendering cos they reckon its easier to hang pictures/wall units on, and more durable but a reveal doesnt need to be..
that said, a problem that arose some years ago with external doors and dabbed reveals was that there wasnt enough room for the flag hinges common with modern uPVC doors...
the way round that is to add a 20mm knock on to the hinge side...makes the frame/jamb bigger so theres enough room..
then they decided to make the opening width min 2'9" (bout 840 mm) which meant a standard 900mm uPVC door WITH knock on attached didnt comply....
so they started making the openings 920mm to compensate...
if the door opens out theres no problem...
if all those factors arent taken into account... theres a problem...
specially where cavity closers are used, you cant render over a uPVC cavity closer without problems, only dab it...
back to 2'9", flag hinges and knock ons again... :D
 
all youre doing is skimming the board the rest will be sand cement
 
all youre doing is skimming the board the rest will be sand cement
 
not sure what its built with but when putting the beads on today i found that the sand and cement was not taking to what looked like breezeblocks very well...

I thought i couldn't mix sand and cement and plasterboard...but your saying i can dab plasterboard to the head and set it back 3mm and then sand and cement around it?
Click to expand...
nothing to say you cant? why not?
render and hardwall on 'breezeblock' (thermalites)...
thermalites/durox (whatever, they float in water) are very high suction... if your gonna solid plaster em your gonna need to kill some of it one way or another be it hosepipe, pva or 'gyprime' (someone else mentioned this the other night.. this is exactly what its for)
either that or make your mix really really wet and just listen to it 'snap crackle and pop' as the substrate drinks up the water from the mix...
 
ok there are closers involved so i take off angle beads...dab reveals, tehn do i leave an inch or so to run upto the board or do i dab some board to the wall also and run upto that?
 
nah just leave yer boards 10-12mm proud of the reveal, keep em flat and straight and use em to rule off, plonk a thincote bead over the three sides when your ready to skim it...
 
be wary of gyprime mate it's 80 quid a tub! pva will still do the job and wont put the customer off ;) gyprime is like gypbond but designed for very high suction backgrounds and also carries an aggregate for key, you already have a key on celcon/therma block and too little suction versus sand/cement can end in tears !
 
i bring the board out approx 15mm beyond the block work, float to that, whack up thincoat beads and set as usual.
 
be wary of gyprime mate it's 80 quid a tub!  pva will still do the job and wont put the customer off  ;) gyprime is like gypbond but designed for very high suction backgrounds and also carries an aggregate for key, you already have a key on celcon/therma block and too little suction versus sand/cement can end in tears !
Click to expand...
aye, tis true... i usually go with a piss wet mix if im honest...
 
Cheers guys really appreciate the responses don't know what i'd do without you lot!! sure i'd find away but i'd lose time, i'll buy u all a beer one day! I'll do as you say Bigsegs. Its been ages since i've done float and set...since college...i'm gonna give all walls a couple of coats of PVA before i hit them... ;)
 
Looks like its PVA nad a piss wet mix then...should be fun!

I actually quite enjoy float and set...its rewarding when you do a large area
 
dont go too mad, like nicksey quite rightly says, kill too much suction and youll have a headache with the rendering...
your looking to bring the suction down to say concrete block levels, still some there, thats what holds it to the wall... a good dowsing with a hosepipe will do the job just as well...
 
ok say i do a 6:1 mix and put to loads in mixer so 12:2 in total how much waterproofer is required someone told me a mcdonalds coffee cup full seems quite alot about right?
 
you dont actually need to use waterproofer in your situation, you can just use plasticiser, but a small amount will help when you top it...
waterproofer is for external rendering and internal rendering on damp jobs, normally 1/2 litre to 25kg of cement.. which is about 3/4 of a mcdonalds coffee cup to a mixerfull.. (which is about 18 shovels of sand and 6 cement for a 3:1 damp job mix)
youll be looking at a 5:1 / 6:1 mix....
ive got my own dodgy method of knocking it up quickly, but theres better, more accurate and consistent methods...
on concrete block youll get away with 1 coat easy and float it...
on thermalites if you dont get the suction control / mix right youll struggle to float it right cos it'll go off like nothing on earth...
all depends on how nice you like your finish before you skim it though... after all, you are goin to skim over the top...
i think i just seen dp's cat walk in, all shaven and ready to be skinned... ;D
 
yea to be honest m8 not to bothered just whack a nail in the float and go over as quick as poss once its level leaving nice patterns! fortunately there aren't big areas thermalites its mostly bricks...

i'll post pics when its done...still got pics to post up of that bungalow i've just finished that went well!
 
quick tip... i used to use galvos in the float, then someone suggested using drywall screws.. you can adjust the depth easier, 3 in the toe...
 
might have even been you that i got the tip off nicksey ;)
another one...
if you got the dreaded 'flag hinge tight against the wall' problem, just use a 9mm board and stick it real tight to the block/closer..
theyre a pain in the arse...
 
Bigsegs not sure what theses flag hinges are didn't see any hinges...just plastic with a depth of about 9cm all the way up both reveals.
 
sounds like the door either opens out or is a composite with normal butt hinges found on normal timber doors...
a flag hinge has fixings on the inside face of the frame and a 'flag' section that fits on the inside face of the door leaf... they look like a little flag... great for fitting cos the door leaf just lifts off em and theyre infinately adjustable, but they look shite and get in the way of the trowel...
they use another type of face fix butt hinge that is slightly adjustable, just without the flag section, but they still get in the way...
 
ok uploaded some photos

boarded door reveal today...sorry no before photo but there was plastic on reveals and metal lintel above brought them out about 12mm.

the pic with the white/glass door in how would you tackle this wall? at college i was taught to plaster horizontal battens once level fill in. With this one would you do vertical battens and work your way along?

Thanks

Door reveals float and set.


Door reveals float and set.
 
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