dot n dab on painted wall

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ballsdeep

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hi lads,i'm soundproofing a wall 2moro,just dndabbing straight onto the wall(2 sheets). the paint work is totally sound n dry n dust free. was gonna wba but was told a while back if the paint work is sound dont bother as adhesive will stick to anything? would i still need to pva the wall? cheers
 
as long as its not gloss id just score the hell out of it with a stanley then dab it without pva or wba. If your still worried then once gone off pop a few screws in
 
i done a room that had a very rough finish to the walls ( bit like old english ) so i thought should be good key, paint was tight, not gloss and no s**t on it,
day after i tried it and adhesive hadnt stuck that good. :-(
 
i would use a surface scabbler to get paint off but its a very dust job and lads wot this wba can some one give me moor onfo please
 
You might get away with using Thistle Bond-it and then using Gyproc Nailable Plugs (like the ones used for insulated plasterboard), other than that you might have to batten the walls and tack the boards?
 
One is either having a laugh or one is having a wee guess ..... Or one works at a wee timber merchant
 
i can't believe you lot dab on to original plasterwork. Surely if the skim comes away from the base coat the whole lot (inc your dab and boards) will end up on the floor.
i'm in the process of buying a mid-terraced house at the mo. was thinking about leaving original plaster on, battening out and screwing sound boards trapping lagging between the battens.
dabbing it would be a mile easier... but surely this isn't common practice?? if it is i MAY consider it as an option as it would save a load of messing around!!!!!!!
 
RMK said:
i can't believe you lot dab on to original plasterwork. Surely if the skim comes away from the base coat the whole lot (inc your dab and boards) will end up on the floor.i'm in the process of buying a mid-terraced house at the mo. was thinking about leaving original plaster on, battening out and screwing sound boards trapping lagging between the battens.dabbing it would be a mile easier... but surely this isn't common practice?? if it is i MAY consider it as an option as it would save a load of messing around!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
It just gets better lol
 
spunky.
could hear the neighbours when i viewed the house. house needs full rewire and re-plumb job. wanted to get as must sounds resistance as possible whilst loosing the minimum amount off the rooms.
what you think?
 
You could Use metal stud resi bar and 2 layers of soundblock and put some insulation in but sound can still travel I'd buy another house if it's that bad tbh
 
How much is that lot going to take off the size of the room tho?
House nearly bought. Was putting faith in soundblock. Oh well!! Guess we'll just have to make sure we're not too noisy!
 
I done one last year with insulated boards, punter asked me to dot n dab them onto walls first , then board the ceilings "to pin them at the top" and "The skirts will pin them at the bottom, and I'll bung some screws in the middle to make sure"

I told him I would do it , but entirely at his risk......It's still OK as far as I know, but he's the type of bloke who wouldn't tell me if it had gone tits-up anyhow, cos he's a plumbtrician so he knows everything :RpS_thumbup:
 
Been here with this one before....

If speech (mid range) is the problem then its simple - use 52mm British Gypsum Tri-line boards then back it up with some secondary fixings
If music (low range) is the problem then, batten it out, a layer of APR 1200 25mm & 2 layers of soundbloc boards
 
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