Drywalling without dot n dab

M

Mokshaka

New Member
My plasterer has fitted 37.5mm insulated plasterboard to my breeze block extension walls. It’s a cavity wall with out 10cm cavity then brick externally.
He’s used 6 inch plastic umbrella fixings through and into the breeze lock without any form of bonding or dot n dab. Some of the boards have a little give to them and he’s redone them.
Is this ok?
 

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Id really appreciate some advice/clarification. It’s not my field, I’m a nurse so not sure about this kind of stuff. Is this an ok way to do it? Just worried.
 
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Elite exteriors said:
No they shoud be a secondary fix after it's dot and dabbed
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So what should I do? Tell him to take it all off, dot n dab and redo? I’ve only paid him a third of his quote. The vaulted cieling seems ok as the insulated board is screwed to the rafters. Is it reasonable to ask him to redo it?
 
Mokshaka said:
So what should I do? Tell him to take it all off, dot n dab and redo? I’ve only paid him a third of his quote. The vaulted cieling seems ok as the insulated board is screwed to the rafters. Is it reasonable to ask him to redo it?
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Yes it should be dot and dabbed properly then secondary fixed
 
Definitely need removing then as elite exteriors said dot and dabbed then secondary fixed.
If they don’t do this then the boards will move and you’ll get cracks on your walls later down the line.
 
Mokshaka said:
My plasterer has fitted 37.5mm insulated plasterboard to my breeze block extension walls. It’s a cavity wall with out 10cm cavity then brick externally.
He’s used 6 inch plastic umbrella fixings through and into the breeze lock without any form of bonding or dot n dab. Some of the boards have a little give to them and he’s redone them.
Is this ok?
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Hit him over the head with a shovel and drag him out of your house.
 
Thanks everyone. I stood my ground despite considerable effort from him to convince me it will be fine and if it cracks he’ll come back and redo it lol. Just insisted he either redo it or I get someone else and he won’t get paid. He’s redone it and it’s nice and firm, no movement.
Thanks all for you’re advice and encouragement.
 
Why would you bother with such a poor insulation board? If you're going to pay out on the labour, then it might as well involve a worthwhile thickness of insulation.
 
Mokshaka said:
Thanks everyone. I stood my ground despite considerable effort from him to convince me it will be fine and if it cracks he’ll come back and redo it lol. Just insisted he either redo it or I get someone else and he won’t get paid. He’s redone it and it’s nice and firm, no movement.
Thanks all for you’re advice and encouragement.
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Good for you. Too many chancers about :coffe:
 
MIXERMAN said:
Why would you dot and dab then secondary fix.?
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Different manufacturers have different specs as well as different area/council building inspectors. Essentially it’s in case of a fire and insulation losses it’s bond due to heat the secondary fix holds it in place (that’s the theory).
The fixings they have used look to be external plastic ones so wouldn’t work if there was a fire.
 
Steve Brown said:
Different manufacturers have different specs as well as different area/council building inspectors. Essentially it’s in case of a fire and insulation losses it’s bond due to heat the secondary fix holds it in place (that’s the theory).
The fixings they have used look to be external plastic ones so wouldn’t work if there was a fire.
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That’s why I use foam to stick em
 
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