EML pricking up coat

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Artisan998 said:
Put a tight coat of sand/cement on today for the pricky up coat and it started slumping all over the gaff.. F**K knows what it looks like the morn.. Just hope the weber mesh saves me when i put the mono on......:RpS_confused:
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Make sure the wire is on tight on a solid background like ply. Mix the sand and cement stiffer than usual and if it slides leave it for the rest of the day then at the end of the day flatten it and give it a tight skim. Scratch lightly or it will slide again.
 
plasterjfe said:
sorry mate just realised you got ocr mixed up with the mono.

On this type of thing i normally use render paper then eml and a latex additive in the backing render, after the eml is filled i lay fibre mesh and also, then comb it. mono onto that when dried out
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I was advised to use a breathable membrane behind the EML and not building paper, wondering if this is why the pricking up coat was slumping with it having no suction. Would my train of thought be correct????
 
essexandy said:
EML is not a pain it's just part of the job you should take in your stride, get your mixes right and it's a doddle.
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Ive used it a few times with no problemsbut ive put it direct on to the wall not on to battons with a membrane behind it... been a canny learning curve this bad boy
 
Artisan998 said:
I was advised to use a breathable membrane behind the EML and not building paper, wondering if this is why the pricking up coat was slumping with it having no suction. Would my train of thought be correct????
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Breathable membrane is the right choice. If your pricking up coat is slumping then you are either not mixing it up stiff enough or trying to get to thick a coat on or both. Remember it's just a prick up coat, it's just there to tighten up the EML and make the next coat easier to get on. Oh and don't put waterproofer in the prick up coat. Did you tie wire the EML sheets together as well as nailing them to the battens?
 
i did a blocl of flats a few yrs back. it was a refurb and had some bits added on. they built the new block flush with the existing render, refused to take off the old render and decided to rib lath over it. but put it on vertical and back to front. i explained this probably wasnt the best way to do it, and they refused to take it back off. so they then paid me on day work to first scratch the riblath until built out to the outward facing vertical strips, then build the blockwork out inline with all that, then float it. in the middle of winter. i got a nice run out of that :-)
 
You say back to front Nick, how many spreads have you seen fix that way round? I've seen loads and when I've politely pointed out their mistake there have been a few that have argued the toss insisting that their way is right. Wankers.
 
must admit i was always shown the wrong way until recently. A firm I was with did a massive block of flats that was all stainless riblath all put on the wrong way lol.

There is a right and wrong way to fit eml as well which I didnt know
 
I take it your on about eml over battons?, with the pricking up coat...i worked for a guy who done 25 timber framed flats with this stuff, but this rib lath already had the paper stuck on the back of it...was great fun trying to stick the beading on the 4.4 meter wide french windows and there was like 7 in a row, trying to string line them all in. spent 5 weeks beading and scrathig....

What is the correct way for rib lath and eml?.....Not sure if i've been taught the correct way either....
 
s.p.t plastering said:
What is the correct way for rib lath and eml?.....Not sure if i've been taught the correct way either....
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I'll be honest I can't remember the actual spec but this is what I do.

Rib lath should be fixed with the high points of the ribs in contact with the substrate/battens.

With EML if you look at the diamonds, the wires slope and should be fitted with the wire sloping up and towards the wall, have look at a sheet and that will make more sense. If it doesn't look like this when facing you will either need to turn the sheet around 180degrees or flip it over.

With both Rib lath and EML I overlap the sheets by 50mm on the long edges and by 200mm on the ends.
Fixing is with stainless clout nails at about 150mm spacings with rib lath the nails are driven through the back of the ribs and where the sheets overlap they are wired together using stainless steel tie wire between the battens. This makes a real difference to getting the wire nice and tight making the prick up coat go on easier.

As I said this may not be to spec but I've never had a problem or been picked up for doing it this way.

Edit: I only overlap the ends by 200mm when they don't finish on a batten, other than that it's more like 60-100mm.
 
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essexandy said:
Breathable membrane is the right choice. If your pricking up coat is slumping then you are either not mixing it up stiff enough or trying to get to thick a coat on or both. Remember it's just a prick up coat, it's just there to tighten up the EML and make the next coat easier to get on. Oh and don't put waterproofer in the prick up coat. Did you tie wire the EML sheets together as well as nailing them to the battens?
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I did put waterproofer in the scrath coat and i did wire tie all the joints.. Its very G** cutting the stuff and my hands are ripped to bits. But apart from that using EML is awesome I did put in on the correct way.. one side is smooth and the other is rough.... rough all the way with this job..........:razz:
 
i didnt really think it was that baffling to figure out which way it goes, but apparently it is lol

yeah andy, the tying the ribs together makes a big difference. again, most people dont seem to do it. i think this is a lot of the problem when riblath has a tendency to crack over a decent area
 
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