Existing Arch Wall Cracking

Hi guys just after a bit of advice if possible please . Last August I did some plastering work for a kitchen fitter who I do regular work for . There was a was a big arch from the kitchen to the living room & the customer wanted it blocking off . The carpenter used a studwork method & then plaster boarded it. There is micro bore pipe running down the wall between the blocks & plasterboard then into a stud cavity. The pipe work wasn’t lagged but he recalls putting wall insulation on it The carpenter thinks the wood has possibly shrunk . When I plastered the wall I probably quadrupled the scrim all the way round from the edge of the plasterboard . I recall bonding parts of it too as it was uneven . Then pva’d & skimmed the wall as normal . I went round to look at the issue the other day and there’s definitely a ridge where something has been disturbed . There’s cracking on the other side of the arch too . This has only been noticed in the last 4-5 weeks by the customer. I told the customer to leave it a couple more months to see if the cracks get any bigger before I try & sort it out . The only thing I don’t really want is to keep going back all the time . I’m happy to plaster both sides of the wall again for free . But need to come up with a way of prepping it differently to prevent cracking again . Not sure whether to dig out 2-3 “ strip all the way round & maybe put board adhesive where the plasterboard meets the wall & then triple scrim it again . I use this method on wooden beads on chimney breasts in Victorian houses etc , board adhesive first then scrim , bead & scrim over the Bead then I never get cracking . Would appreciate any help on this please . Thx again for your time .
 
To be fair I can't see why its your problem if you didn't prep it. Did you say the carpenter boarded?

If you're getting paid then thats a different matter. Could do with pics to help properly tho.
 
Yes the carpenter boarded it too , the customer isn’t one I’d mess around with to be honest , & I’m not one to walk away from an issue if it’s cracked . I’ve got a good working relationships with the kitchen fitter , ivevbeen round and looked at it & shown my face so customer knows I’m not ignoring the fact . I will probably go round & take a photo & post it on here to make it more clearer . Carpenter will come round & help , but as I said on my post I don’t want the issue to reappear again . Which it could do as you never know in this game ....
 
I am with CeeVee on this one, why is it your fault? Also with the chippy (unfortunately) probably is shrinkage, wood shrinks a lot when it dries. Tell them to carefully v the crack so they can push filler in it, that way when they rub down they won’t rub all the filler off and get a crack later
 
Thing is we don’t know who’s fault it is ? Carpenters guessing it could be shrinkage . But your right , it might be easier to dig out a v & fill it , rather than going down the route of replasteting both sides of the wall etc . That’s why I posted it on here for some advice . As I said I’m not rushing into anything as of yet as I want to leave it a couple months . Just got a conscience when it comes to my work all be it might not my fault ...
 
Never looks right after patching,, ,
If you do it again, ,,tape cracks using 20 min set filler with Fiba fuse tape, arch bead,, ,skim the lot,, ,,who to bill is your call.
 
if you have blockwork meeting up to stud work it is going to crack where the 2 different materials meet.
i would have dot and dab over both sides of the wall completely then skimmed, therefore covering the joint of the different materials .
 
Though it was bag practice to use dot (I Have) because it set so hard so mpre chance it will crack if its thin .
 
if you have blockwork meeting up to stud work it is going to crack where the 2 different materials meet.
i would have dot and dab over both sides of the wall completely then skimmed, therefore covering the joint of the different materials .
if you have blockwork meeting up to stud work it is going to crack where the 2 different materials meet.
i would have dot and dab over both sides of the wall completely then skimmed, therefore covering the joint of the different materials .
I appreciate what your saying , As for dabbing both sides of the wall , the kitchen was tight for space as it was ,everything was measured & units purchased etc prior to me coming & giving it a skim over .Also the living room wall side, the wall went right through up into the stairwell . So stopped it with a 3mm bead before it went up the stairs , customer wanted a bead rather than me Plastering . all the way up the stairs .
 
Back
Top