fibretape

The Hobo said:
plasterers that don't even know what bandage scrim is /think im on the wrong place here
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Paper tape for the joints and hessian scrim around the edge of the ceilings is what I was taught nearly thirty years ago.Then the self adhesive scrim took over but I still reckon the paper tape is the best job.
32920
 
essexandy said:
Not according to BG Danny. Apparently the BG blue scrim is 30% stronger than paper.
How things change.
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But is it even stronger still if not stuck under skim but trowelled onto first coat , ( according to the pink book )
 
Havagojo said:
But is it even stronger still if not stuck under skim but trowelled onto first coat , ( according to the pink book )
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The tape needs to have gear behind it and on top of it to be effective... when tape has failed in ceilings in the past it is because it had been applied on the boards without any gear behind it.
 
Danny said:
The tape needs to have gear behind it and on top of it to be effective... when tape has failed in ceilings in the past it is because it had been applied on the boards without any gear behind it.
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Also with tapered boards put skrim in first fill and in first coat , tapered boards on a ceiling is a no no ( flex requirement )
 
Danny said:
even on square edge boards I tend to fill out my joints first...
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Just doesn't make sense not to ( apart from effort ) , ceiling joints flex both up and down in relation to the next joist and so tape only to one side of the cross section has less effect to prevent the plaster from cracking , Ott I know as its only 3-5 mm , but another contributing factor is that the plaster is bonded to the board less and relying to some extent on the glue
 
The Hobo said:
any one having trouble with novipro tape its doing my head in outside edge sticking to roll when pulling off thru 2 out today fcking shite
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You can fix this by making a cut on the edge of the tape on both sides. I cut my rolls or mesh tape 2x on each side. Just the outer band or 2 of the fiberglass. That way when a string starts to form is only about 6 inches long at any one point. Doesn't compromise the mesh and eliminates that annoying string that either builds up on the roll or pulls off from a long run of mesh.
 
Havagojo said:
Just doesn't make sense not to ( apart from effort ) , ceiling joints flex both up and down in relation to the next joist and so tape only to one side of the cross section has less effect to prevent the plaster from cracking , Ott I know as its only 3-5 mm , but another contributing factor is that the plaster is bonded to the board less and relying to some extent on the glue
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What's 3-5mm? Skim is supposed to be 2mm.
 
Heritage Plasters said:
You can fix this by making a cut on the edge of the tape on both sides. I cut my rolls or mesh tape 2x on each side. Just the outer band or 2 of the fiberglass. That way when a string starts to form is only about 6 inches long at any one point. Doesn't compromise the mesh and eliminates that annoying string that either builds up on the roll or pulls off from a long run of mesh.
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sooner buy the right for job customer paying any way
 
essexandy said:
Yes.
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Thin as possible is best don't disagree , think that cracks on ceilings more likely the thicker it is , but apart from the inconvenience would still prefer the tape in the skim and not as a barrier to the skim , don't get me wrong I intend to hit the sites this summer and I know what method I'll choose lol
 
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