fine mesh angle bead...skimming

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tuk

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got to skim up against 'fine mesh corner bead' round a door frame and wondering the best way to go about this ..trying to judge the level over 2 coats seem a little tricky
 
no joke m8, im new at this, but I'v noticed spreads seem to have little techniques for almost everything, so I thought I would ask before I make c**t of it, skimming upto a wall seems easier to me than skimming up to a bead ..meaning getting 2 coats to finish exactly with the top of the spine..also is the trowel technique the same as for a wall ..working horizontally away from the edge
 
if you put your trowel side on to the bead as your seting it wether its tack or plasterboard adhisivewith a drop of pva you will see if you have the coverage as your seting the bead wether you need too give it a push or a pall here or there maybe that helps
 
beads are made to provide the 2mm bevel you need to skim to tightly just make sure they are set square and you will have no probs
 
Just remember to trowel it vertical mate and not horizontal. If your new to it you'll end up with a ridge against the bead and it wont be flat. Plaster as normal and then take of excess/flaten vertically.
Good luck. ;)
 
come on lads this is a plasterers forum for spreads of every level of experience , please try to be helpful .
 
Just in passing whats the differnce between a thin coat angle bead and the fine mesh ones we are discussing here - I've only ever used thin coats - Is there a reason why they make the fine mesh ones ?
 
i personally find the fine mesh beads rubbish they are harder to put up right , get them slightly wrong and the mesh of the bead sits proud of the arris , stick to thin coat .
 
Wen working to angle beads give them a quick coat at the start of your set along with any board joins and scrims and 2 coat as normal, that's how I've always done it.
 
church said:
i personally find the fine mesh beads rubbish they are harder to put up right , get them slightly wrong and the mesh of the bead sits proud of the arris , stick to thin coat .
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yeh but if your a bit of a chancer and the walls p'ssed you can bend em to any shape you want and theyre thinner than thincoat so you can get away with half a bag a wall and who cares if they stick out a bit thats what sandpaper is for innit...
personally i love em ::)
 
pristineplastering said:
Just in passing whats the differnce between a thin coat angle bead and the fine mesh ones we are discussing here - I've only ever used thin coats - Is there a reason why they make the fine mesh ones ?
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Im only guessing (but I'm allways right about everything ;D )

The mesh ones emulate normal angle beads, just they are smaller, and were designed to be stuck on.

But like with everything, manufacturers noticed that most skim beads are nailed or screwed on, because they are for plasterboard which is nearly always on top of wood studding, so they made them with the preformed nail holes.
 
church said:
i personally find the fine mesh beads rubbish they are harder to put up right , get them slightly wrong and the mesh of the bead sits proud of the arris , stick to thin coat .
Click to expand...


I agree with Church (as usual), even with the razor edge type beads they do vary as to how much thickness they allow so do check, as they're a right pain in the arris if you end up with those allowing a 6mm coat >:(
 
personally i dont look any further than expamet and catnic when it comes to beads and there pretty much 50p a bead now in bulk ;)
 
tuk said:
got to skim up against 'fine mesh corner bead' round a door frame and wondering the best way to go about this ..trying to judge the level over 2 coats seem a little tricky
Click to expand...
Why is there beads around the door frame ?, just skim to the door frame. Or isn't the door frame fitted ? :-\
 
Why is there beads around the door frame ?, just skim to the door frame. Or isn't the door frame fitted ? :-\
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He probably means a 'doorway' that has reveals up to the door case.
 
thanks for all the advice ..I intended to post this in the beginners section, but it ended up here by mistake

its a reskim, and the original plaster is flat with the doorframe for some reason so no edge to work up to, the gap between wood and wall is only 1mm or so, very tight sliding in the mesh wing ..so I abandoned the idea of putting mix on the edge behind the bead might make it more difficult ..so Im thinking of using staples instead ..and seen another thread suggesting using scrim on the mesh to avoid cracking ...in places the light mesh flares away from the wall,(as someone mentioned it does), so scrim might be a good idea anyway

can see now from fitting the mesh bead that rigid bead would probably have been better

to pva the bead, should I treat it like the rest of the wall: 3:1 then 5:1 or something else? ..feel free to comment on any of the above
 
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