fixing render boards(external)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
if its the one you can cut with a stanley knife go in at £4.00 per m2 if its the cement board go in at £8.00 as its a nightmare to cut
 
well if your happy with that then but dont forget mate that the screws have to be countersunk into the board as the thin coat system going over the top doesnt like screw head bumps i use a angle grinder with diamond blade to cut them
 
Knauf aquapanel exterior boards fixed with their scews, expensive to buy but save a lot on installation, they cut easier and fix well, reasonable size too. Go the other way like e board and you might lose a couple of your long term plasterers, you call them w ankers then try to do it yourself and you realise, tough work !
 
Depends on the actual board bobby, there are many on the market and some are a mare to cut and some like the aquapanel are gypsum based and easy to cut but not all render suppliers will approve them as they are gypsum based and they dont like it externally as the membrane over them is their only protection from the elements.
Plus make sure the boarding is good because ssome poor sod will prob have to apply a thin coat system over them
 
The knauf panels are better cut with a hand saw, if you cut using a knife and snap it will leave an uneven edge, they come in 900x2400 and the screws pull in nice. There around £19.00 a sheet but the time you will save compared to the other boards make up for it. The other boards have to be cut with a disc cutter, you have to pre drill and counter sink the screw holes and there bloody heavy.
 
so why would you give a 5mm gap for expansion and then fill the gap which gives you NO expansion. You also need to to scrim the joints first with 100mm scrim and then do a full mesh over after 24hrs . A lot of people only do a full mesh which aint to the proper spec
 
you tell me paul.

I have the marmorit spec here and thats what hey have asked me to do on the cem board job i am doing.

also i think you can just use the ordinary mesh cut into strips to cover the joint snd no mesh on the cem board itsself
 
thats what we do mate, cut a roll down, its the same stuff but we always do a full mesh, are you saying they dont want you to fully mesh the board
 
i didnt ask them about that but i am sure les said no need to, the whole point of the mesh is to stop the cracks it aint gonna crack unless its on a joint.

ill double check before i do it mind
 
if you look on the knauf boards they do have little hairline cracks and I personally feel that they could flex and crack with the up and down temps over here so we still mesh over because you will have to give it a coat of sm700 anyway . i like to think i have covered all angles then for the sake of an extra £1m2 for the mesh
 
Is that normal for all render board then? Can you mesh the joints and scratch it with hpx or something then top it?
 
les did the spec and supply for the first job we did with them and told me we had to mesh joints and full mesh, so we have always done it and will always do it because it gives an extra bit of backup. everyone does things different .
 
[/quote]

yes mate. use a 5mm window packer as a gauge to get it looking neat and tidy
[/quote]

then fill them with adhesive when applying the mesh ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
[/quote]

i was told to use buiders paper behind the mesh to stop the movement cracking the thin coat ;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top