fixing SS mesh to ply

D

Den1

New Member
I am planning to render my bay window, its is a newly built bay with plywood lining. I have currently got house wrap on it to protect the ply from the weather.
I have two questions:

1, I have expanded SS mesh to fix on to the ply, should I set this out from the ply (3mm washers) to ensure the mesh is within the render rather than the render sitting on the mesh.
2, Should I remove the house wrap before rendering? or could I leave on?

Any advice would be gratefully received.
 
Den1 said:
I am planning to render my bay window, its is a newly built bay with plywood lining. I have currently got house wrap on it to protect the ply from the weather.
I have two questions:

1, I have expanded SS mesh to fix on to the ply, should I set this out from the ply (3mm washers) to ensure the mesh is within the render rather than the render sitting on the mesh.
2, Should I remove the house wrap before rendering? or could I leave on?

Any advice would be gratefully received.
Click to expand...

your 30 years out of date with your idea.
Fit Knauf aqua panel. then employ a plasterer to apply a thin coat system.
 
Hi malc thanks for your reply unfortunately that’s not an option we can follow up.

So any answers to the questions would be helpful.
Many thanks
 
Den1 said:
Hi malc thanks for your reply unfortunately that’s not an option we can follow up.

So any answers to the questions would be helpful.
Many thanks
Click to expand...
Why can't you?
Anyway EML shouldn't be fixed onto ply, it should be battened out, building paper and then EML'ed.
But we both know you won't be doing that.
 
If you are going to use EML, use stainless steel Rib Lath. Ribs go towards background to allow material to bond through lath.
fixing SS mesh to ply
 
Den1 said:
I am planning to render my bay window, its is a newly built bay with plywood lining. I have currently got house wrap on it to protect the ply from the weather.
I have two questions:

1, I have expanded SS mesh to fix on to the ply, should I set this out from the ply (3mm washers) to ensure the mesh is within the render rather than the render sitting on the mesh.
2, Should I remove the house wrap before rendering? or could I leave on?

Any advice would be gratefully received.
Click to expand...

As said. Old tech! Better stuff out now.

We did gables and bays donkeys ago, (still ok and lasting). Dashing and rendering......

If you've already bought the stuff and are going that route.....

On a bay, curved or angled?

Most of the time the ss mesh doesn't go on absolutely flat and tight.
Even if it does should still be ok, (for someone who knows what their doing)

As for membrane?
I DON'T LIKE MUCK TOUCHING WOOD! ;)





Are you rendering it yourself?


Couple of pics would help.
 
I did a curved bay last year knock off and replace. Trouble I found was sourcing a render board manufacturer that spec’s boards that could be curved ( later found knauf do one rrrr).
So I used ply (f**k on to shape the flared bell base) then stapled a membrane to it. Fixed a stainless EML over that with stainless screws and washers through plywood into existing battens/uprights.
Then rendered it with Johnstones thin coat system.
Had to dub out first then a scratch followed by a base with mesh so that I could get a good straight finish for the bucket coat.
Went back this year to do a bedroom and it still looks great.
But it’s a f**k on and time consuming as you’ve got to many fragmented days between coats and curing times.
It can be done but go with knauf external boards it’ll save a lot of hassle.
 
essexandy said:
Why can't you?
Anyway EML shouldn't be fixed onto ply, it should be battened out, building paper and then EML'ed.
But we both know you won't be doing that.
Click to expand...
Hi essexandy, thanks for your reply, so from what you are saying I should batton out first, then builders paper then the EML. would there then be a gap between the ply and the building paper?

would I be able to batten out over the paper? I would like to give it the best chance to work so although I can't take the first piece of advice and go for the cement board I am happy to batten out as its kind of what I was thinking should happen but could find no definitive answers online. I am aiming for 10mm render from ply to finish level. what thickness battens should I aim for?

Thanks you for your time in replying, much appreciated.
 
bobski said:
As said. Old tech! Better stuff out now.

We did gables and bays donkeys ago, (still ok and lasting). Dashing and rendering......

If you've already bought the stuff and are going that route.....

On a bay, curved or angled?

Most of the time the ss mesh doesn't go on absolutely flat and tight.
Even if it does should still be ok, (for someone who knows what their doing)

As for membrane?
I DON'T LIKE MUCK TOUCHING WOOD! ;)





Are you rendering it yourself?


Couple of pics would help.
Click to expand...
Hi Bobski,

Thanks for replying, I am finding the plans we have do not always use the most up to date method! so am finding things out as I go along... and where we are going wrong or using old tech. But as you say the method is still ok and lasting so I am hopeful!!

Its a 30 degree angled bay which I plan to bead out as I gather trying to smooth round a corner is tricky.

Yes, I am rendering it myself, I am building an extension and learning on the go, (a 4 days plastering course has helped but I shall be learning to render on the job..... when it warms up a bit!!)

when you last completed a job like this did you batten out the mesh as someone else has advised? as we want the render to be 10mm think from ply to finish should I aim for the batten to be 5mm thick?

Many thanks for your advice
 
Steve Brown said:
I did a curved bay last year knock off and replace. Trouble I found was sourcing a render board manufacturer that spec’s boards that could be curved ( later found knauf do one rrrr).
So I used ply (f**k on to shape the flared bell base) then stapled a membrane to it. Fixed a stainless EML over that with stainless screws and washers through plywood into existing battens/uprights.
Then rendered it with Johnstones thin coat system.
Had to dub out first then a scratch followed by a base with mesh so that I could get a good straight finish for the bucket coat.
Went back this year to do a bedroom and it still looks great.
But it’s a f**k on and time consuming as you’ve got to many fragmented days between coats and curing times.
It can be done but go with knauf external boards it’ll save a lot of hassle.
Click to expand...
Hello Steve,

Thanks for taking the time to reply its much appreciated. From your experience I think I have my work cut out for me!

I am planning on sand and cement render so hopefully not so many coats but I will be looking into the Johnstones system as I notice its ok to use in lower temps. but I may just wait for it to get warmer!

Many thanks
 
Seriously bud - sounds silly… but there are billions of people in the world, and while it is unlikely they will all pass your house and see it… getting someone experienced to render the outside it a VERY wise investment!! More people see the outside of your house, so get it done right by someone experienced!!!

If you want info about Knauf Aquapanel Outdoor, get in touch & if you do the battening and boarding yourself that’s fine… but get someone professional who has done the rendering before to finish it (please)
4 day skimming course will not help you with modern rendering!!

Richard Lord
Knauf
[email protected]
 
Hi Richard,

Thanks for your concerns, I understand where you are coming from and I fully understand my plastering course doesn’t set me up for rendering I have no illusions there.

In my favour is the facts that my bay is on the back of my house on top of an extension which prevents me from actually see the bottom of it from my garden. One set of neighbours will be able to see it (the last side I shall do!) so I am less concerned with the aesthetics (but it does factor!) and more about the stability of the render on the wall and making sure I use the mesh in the correct way.

Thank you for you time and concerns.
 
Den1 said:
Hi essexandy, thanks for your reply, so from what you are saying I should batton out first, then builders paper then the EML. would there then be a gap between the ply and the building paper?

would I be able to batten out over the paper? I would like to give it the best chance to work so although I can't take the first piece of advice and go for the cement board I am happy to batten out as its kind of what I was thinking should happen but could find no definitive answers online. I am aiming for 10mm render from ply to finish level. what thickness battens should I aim for?

Thanks you for your time in replying, much appreciated.
Click to expand...
You just need a batten to lift the Eml off the ply, 6/8/10 mm should be suffice
 
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