Fixing stop beads

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IF you are putting beads of any kind onto dabs then it needs to have what ever you are using
(finish , bonding ,s and c etc)both behind and on top of the flange or web, just on top is inadequate and will not stop movement resulting in cracking or the bead coming loose if knocked . staples are no good imo so i always fix with pb nails when possible and run some scrim over the web on thin coat beads.
 
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beader said:
IF you are putting beads of any kind onto dabs then it needs to have what ever you are using
(finish , bonding ,s and c etc)both behind and on top of the flange or web, just on top is inadequate and will not stop movement resulting in cracking or the bead coming loose if knocked . staples are no good imo so i always fix with pb nails when possible and run some scrim over the web on thin coat beads.
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Bollox

Firstly why do you need the same gear under the bead as on top?

Secondly we have been stapling beads for 10 years with not one come back.

Thirdly sticking bead without a mechanical fix is just weaker...fact.

Fouthly why add loads of depth to the bead by sticking it ?

Fifthly Gibbo is a grumpy old wankbag
 
DannyMac said:
Bollox

Firstly why do you need the same gear under the bead as on top?

Secondly we have been stapling beads for 10 years with not one come back.

Thirdly sticking bead without a mechanical fix is just weaker...fact.

Fouthly why add loads of depth to the bead by sticking it ?

Fifthly Gibbo is a grumpy old wankbag
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Are fourthly & fifthly proper words............:RpS_unsure:
 
It's the DIY/ plastering tips/plastering help section Gibbo. If you see yourself superior to helping others then just swerve the section. xx
 
Personal choice, I nail thin coat beads - if not possible stick on with skim - rare occasion on wood doweling I'll staple (if I don't want to disturb anything like any recently browned patches).
Mexican (Maxicon) beads for rendering/floating I'll stick on with dry-wall or nail if possible (or a combo of both).
All the above methods haven't caused any problems, cracking, falling off or whatever.
If you want to pick your nose and stick them on with snot that's up to you.
 
spunky said:
Danny you're not sticking the bead fully if you just put the gear on top
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Skim beads don't stick to any gear. Whether you put it under or on top, all it does is holds it in situe.

Scrim it then skim on top will be much stronger.

Sticking skim beads is wank, we see it all too often when a staple or nail will do.

Believe me, there is no stronger way (when you cant get a mechanical fix) to attach a bead than to scrim it on both wings and skim on top.
 
DannyMac said:
Skim beads don't stick to any gear. Whether you put it under or on top, all it does is holds it in situe.

Scrim it then skim on top will be much stronger.

Sticking skim beads is wank, we see it all too often when a staple or nail will do.

Believe me, there is no stronger way (when you cant get a mechanical fix) to attach a bead than to scrim it on both wings and skim on top.
Click to expand...

Sounds to defeat the purpose even more to be honest you're keeping more gear away from where it should be
I'm not just talking about skim beads mate
 
did some beading today.

I bought some clout nails...tap in ok but then come out the wall while I tap the next in.. fury.

Went back to the old method of using screws as it seems to work :).

..question... do you usestop beads around things like sockets? I know the flang is supposed to cover the dodgy bits around the side but I seem to have a night mare with flush sockets
 
I gripfill and staple on my own work if i was on site i would just stick with finish unless they wanted top pay for SS staples and gripfill which they wouldnt.
 
Never used stop beads rounds sockets. If doing reskims I'll loosen sockets, if new boards then they should be tight round the metal liners (socket switchgear removed completely or pulled out). If I'm skimming board work not done by us and there's a gap I'll put a scrim on. Sometimes there's just wires as its a plastic board box that clamps up or the back part has been fitted. When skimmed boxes are neatly cut out either on second trowel with a small tool or after with a Stanley knife (unless the sparky is a pillock leaving long tails then the bugger can clean 'em out himself)
 
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