Flat wall for tiling by skimming?

[visionset]

I have a sound wall that just needs to be super flat for tiling and isn't. Out of flat by 10mm max and painted with sound silk paint.
I've done a fair bit of plastering, obviously still tons to learn.
I believe you can't typically skim for flatness, just smoothness?

I propose to do the following, any better solution that doesn't involve stripping the lot off or adding more than the 10mm of extra depth - i need all the space in the room I can get!

Devil float scratch the wall for key.
Prime wall with some gritty primer (pva and one coat slurry?)
One coat plaster (yeah shock horror) with straight edge to make wall flat
typical rough one coat finish, minimally worked, is ideal for tiling.

One coat okay for runny slurry? Or I need to go buy somut else?

Thanks

 

[Arti]

If you can't afford to add 10mm then your gonna have to hack it off back to brick/ block and float it out again or dot & Dab it

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[Retired Spread]

Apply gritted bonding agent to wall,(no need for devil float) let it dry minimum 24 hours then float it with thistle bonding plaster get that to the required flatness you want let it firm up after a few hours give it a quick coat of multi

 

[jet]

I always hack off in bathroom
Dot boards on plumb
All your tile cuts are same

The effort, It will show on your tiling

 

[Arti]

Apply gritted bonding agent to wall,(no need for devil float) let it dry minimum 24 hours then float it with thistle bonding plaster get that to the required flatness you want let it firm up after a few hours give it a quick coat of multi

I wouldn't use bonding in a bathroom IMO

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[raggles]

I wouldn't use bonding in a bathroom IMO

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Arti's right ya know

 

[raggles]

If ya putting heavy tiles on then the best way forward is to hack off and float or dab boards on and divvint skim them just tile straight onto them. alternatively hack back chased brand the walls and board them with p/board or 12mm ply

 

[malc]

hack back to blockwork, dab hardie backer boards in bathroom for tiling

 

[Retired Spread]

I wouldn't use bonding in a bathroom IMO

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I wouldn't normally either,but if the poster is using bonding agent on the wall and wants to float it out with backing plaster,he will have to use Bonding as you cant use Hardwall or Browning on bonding agents..........says so on the bags.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

I wouldn't normally either,but if the poster is using bonding agent on the wall and wants to float it out with backing plaster,he will have to use Bonding as you cant use Hardwall or Browning on bonding agents..........says so on the bags.

I think he means more with the case of moisture if it's a wet wall?

Having said that if your getting a lot of moisture through the tiles and grout it will destroy any gypsum based product over time.

Decent tiles and grout can be sealed to prevent this in which case it shouldn't matter, depends how text book you want to do it!

 

[puddove]

Arti's right ya know

I've heard a vicious rumor------------- Arti is always right -------------------------------------------------------------


but i have suspicion arti started the rumor

 

[paddy5]

10mm is not a big deal, I'd be sweetening my tiler with a bottle of whisky and have him feather them out free hand, tricky/slow but much handier and cheaper/faster than hacking,bonding will eventually blow .

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[McBentLegs]

Nothing wrong with using Gypsum products in a bathroom, if the Bondings going to blow then why doesn't all the skim blow too? Ceiling? Half tiled walls?

Just make sure the main wet area is tanked, I generally use the Ardex tanking kit for shower area and completely seal where tray or bath meets wall, acrylic primer (Bal APD) every where else thats being tiled (pretty much creates a water tight barrier in itself), then bal/Ardex/mapei flexi bagged cement and you won't have any probs.