Float and set reveals

[dannykela]

I dab and use a stop bead just so I can keep the margin, I find it cleaner

 

[Danny]

Why is that bit never fixed static??
Would it be so difficult???
I believe we put a man on the moon.

something about measuring inside and outside the jiggly bit is meant to make it up....

 

[A.plasterer]

something about measuring inside and outside the jiggly bit is meant to make it up....

I just wear a coat

 

[Gibbo]

Why is that bit never fixed static??
Would it be so difficult???
I believe we put a man on the moon.

If it was fixed you measurement would be wrong

 

[A.plasterer]

If it was fixed you measurement would be wrong

They generally are !!
Measure twice , cut wrong

 

[Gibbo]

 

[A.plasterer]

Hermaphrodite tape instructions

 

[Dropsalot]

Varying methods, the stop bead against the frame with an even margin is how I was shown how to do it and I stuck with it. But I'm always happy to learn other ways. @Dropsalot rule with gauge? One of those triangles hooked on to the edge of the window a squangle? I'm probably sounding a bit thick but you've got to ask

Squangle, ply, speedsquare.....many methods.......angle beads plumb, head bead level, all margins equal....lovely job.

 

[Dropsalot]

Oh btw, if you use a nail in a bit of timber for a gauge, cut the head off for greater accuracy.....works for me.

 

[Danny]

I just wear a coat

huh

 

[Danny]

s**t I just watched all of that...

 

[A.plasterer]

huh

Read it again

 

[Danny]

Read it again

lol that is scraping the barrel

 

[A.plasterer]

lol that is scraping the barrel

 

[Beenereb4]

10mm stop beads around the frame give a perfect finish if there's no money for stops just smash em on and lattice plane them straight ( gotta get timing right) devil up, angle plane the nibs and skim, easy.
Most plasterers won't have these tools though lol.

 

[mashman]

Old school. Angle bead on corner, float reveal and rule with gauge off window frame, all square and plumb. Rub back s&C in the reveal to allow thicker coat of skim, you can gauge that as well. Tadah!
I only use a stop bead against the frame if the client is likely to change the windows in the future.

This is the correct and only way.All this b*ll***s with stop beads against the window is another load of shitebrought in by no nothing designers and architects.

 

[Beenereb4]

This is the correct and only way.All this b*ll***s with stop beads against the window is another load of shitebrought in by no nothing designers and architects.

Crack on then, good luck with powder coated frames.

 

[mashman]

The reason they give for using beads against frames is to stop cracking.Decorators always cork around the windows so there's no need for beads just architects thinking there clever

 

[mashman]

Crack on then, good luck with powder coated frames.

Done it on powder coated frames just a bit more careful.Old school been there done it

 

[Dropsalot]

Done it on powder coated frames just a bit more careful.Old school been there done it

Same as @mashman , old school. If I was worried about scratching the powder coating, I'd use masking tape.

 

[wiganlad]

Like wise

So I'm on a job at the moment, float and set with hardwall. On the reveals though the way the windows have been put in (shambles) and also some fancy bead the architect wants, it means we are now dot and dabbing reveals and floating the wall only. I always thought it was standard practice to put a render stop bead up the window, keeping the correct margin all the way round the window frame and square angle beads off the stops and window frame. Float the reveals. Hopefully that was explained clearly enough. Now speaking to a spread today he simply just puts up the angles and freehands up to the window. Quicker but possibly not so precise. How do you guys normally set up your reveals? might sound like a daft question but just wanted to know. Cheers.