Gap between ceiling and walls

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Jmac82

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I’m not a plasterer so not sure if this post is appropriate but I was just looking for a little advice on a plastering job I’ve had done as I have literally no idea about these things.

There was a bad leak from the flat upstairs and as a result all of my ceilings had to come down. It turned out that there was asbestos in the artex on the ceiling so I had to get a specialist company to come in and remove the ceilings – which they did a good job of.

I got a plaster to come in and replace the ceilings, plaster them and all of the walls. From what I can tell he’s done a good job, there is just one issue in the bathroom.

The bathroom is fully tiled and it is now clear that the ceiling was never level with the walls. This means that he has put up a straight and level boards, but these do not meet up flush with the walls so there is a gap around where the wall meets the ceiling around half of the bathroom. In some areas its only a ml or twop but for the most part the gap goes up to around 6 or 7 ml.

I’m guessing this was the same in the other rooms, but as these room were not tiled and getting re-plastered anyway he has been able to join the walls to the ceilings.

He’d left saying the job is done but I’ve still got this gap between half of the bathroom where the ceiling and wall should meet.

Basically, what I’m wondering is whether I’m just stuck with this gap forever or can it be fixed by filling it in with something? If it can be, should this be something the plasterer should have done saying as he was employed to restore the ceilings?

If you can offer any help I’d be very grateful.

Many thanks.
 
Was the tiling done before or after the plastering, pics would be helpful if possible? Could you use flexible sealant/ mastic where tile meets ceiling or have the ceiling overboarded and skimmed again to close the gap
 
PLASTAMASTA said:
Was the tiling done before or after the plastering, pics would be helpful if possible? Could you use flexible sealant/ mastic where tile meets ceiling or have the ceiling overboarded and skimmed again to close the gap
Click to expand...

Hi, Thanks for the very quick reply. I can some a couple photos tonight when I get home.

The bathroom was already tiled. It was tiled before the ceiling was taken down - it did used to go right to the point where the walls joined the ceiling. I was wondering if a felxible sealant could be used to fill the gap, but it is quite big in parts. Would this be something the plaster should have done to finish the job off?

The plaster had originally talked about adding new wooden lats to the extisting ones and essentially dropping the ceiling a bit so that the plaster at the edge of the ceiling went directly onto the tiles. I'd said I'd prefer it if we could keep the ceilings at the same height, just thinking plaster probably wouldn't stick too great to tiles. He said, OK, but obviously I expected that he'd make it so that the ceiling and walls still joined somehow.

Again, many thanks on the quick reply.
 
Hi, thanks for the very quick reply.

I'll post some photo's after I get home. The titling was already done. This had been done prior to the ceilings being taken down. The tiles did used to go right up to the artexed ceiling that was there.

I had wondered if a flexible sealant could be used to fill in the gaps, but they are quite big at places - also the ceiling board seems to end where it should join the wall there is no run over, so you'd be essentially trying to join the corner of the ceiling board edge to the corner of the wall Edge. If it looked more like the letter T it'd make it much easier to fill. If a flexible filler is the answer - would this be something the platerer should've done to finish off the job?

The plaster did originally suggest putting wooden lats on the one that were already there, dropping the ceiling a bit to that the ceiling and plastering ran straight onto the tiles like -l I said I'd prefer to keep the ceilings the same height and he said OK, but I obviouly I still wanted the ceiling to join the walls.
 
Jma as the gap is at the top of the wall and the plasterer was paid to redo the ceiling only strictly speaking he's done nothing wrong, but personally I would have filled it anyway.
It sounds as if the gap is above a fully tiled area in which case I'd just fill the gap neatly with grout. It's not unusual for there to be wide joints at the ceiling line if the ceiling is all over the place.
 
Many Thanks, I guess I best learn how to grout then! Cheers again, I'll still stick a photo or two up when I get back home just so you guys can have a look.
 
If it's only 6-7mm then cut a 7-8mm nozzle on a tube of silicone and neatly go around the top. Cost about £5 and 15 mins of your time. Plenty of videos on You Tube on how to use a silicone gun.
 
IMO the plasterer should of bought the finish plaster line down to the top of the tile,there's ways of doing it that would of put an extra hour or so on the job to achieve this.you could fix coving ,might look nicer than a mastic gap .
 
small bathroom ceilin i would have just double boarded it to bring it down then skimmed and the height difference wouldnt be noticeable
 
Sorry just reread it I thought it was a gap on the ceilings not the walls, he could've mentioned it but he's probably done what he quoted for
 
The plasterer has replaced an artexted ceiling with a skimmed plasterboard ceiling I guess there was always going to be a gap above the wall tiles:RpS_unsure:
What's the betting he has used 9.5mm board? Maybe 12.5mm would have closed the gap a little more?
I would silicone seal the gap rather than grout myself.
 
I would imagine from what you are saying that the whole works would have been arranged by an insurance loss adjuster or the like ? if this is the case could you simply not just contact the relevant insurer and let then arrange for a contractor to remedy this after all that is what we pay our premiums for
 
Would this not come under the decorators job?

I mean, the chippie doesn't run caulk around the skirting does he.
Also, the plaster would have had to dry first before you can caulk.

But also accept it would have taken little extra effort to get it right.
 
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