help with my questions

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jackofalltrades

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hi there
its a great site hopefully i'll learn off everyone as im starting on my plastering course. if anyone can help me out here are the questions; there suppose to be easy but sometimes i cant get my head around them.
list three different types of manufactures instructions given for using plaster on site?
state three checks to be made before commencing work on a contract?
state two reasons for loss of adhesion of plaster to plasterboard?
state two reasons for quick setting plaster?
name two types of joint reinforcement available for use in two or one coat work to plasterboard?
list two methods of transferring a level across a room?
state two reasons why a plaster should be able to identify and know the properites of the background materials on which plaster is to be applied?
describle briefly the meaning of the term shelling when applied to a finishing coat of plaster surface?
explain why the floating coat is devil floated on completion?
 
alright jack welcome to the site, i can help with some of your questions and there are plenty of people on here who will add to the list so here goes.
1, store in a dry place, keep covered and read the bag.
2, read the spec for the job, make sure there is a water supply and power.
3, loss of adhesion on plasterboards usually occurs when the wrong plaster is used or usually dustyboards.
4, plaster usually sets too quick if its old and perished, mixed with dirty water or overmixed.
5, joint reinforcements are usually fibre tape, hessian skrim and bandage are others but rarely used on new builds but will be asked for in listed buildings.
6, levels accross a room are usually transferred using a water level but nowadays a laser is used.
7, A plasterer needs to know the background on which they are plastering because it can go pair shaped because backgrounds are either high or low suction and using the wrong one will have the obviouse effect.
8, shelling im not too sure of.
9, floating coat is devil floated on completion to provide a key for the finish coat. there are 2 types of key, mechanical and man made.
Mechanical-: scratching,raking out the joints of brickwork,scrabbling.
Man made -: Pva,eml (expanded metal lathing),bond-it.
hope this starts you off ;)
 
like all things prep is everything i try to make sure i got it down...i passed on the test thanks flynnyman. its gonna be a good career move as i've been in caring for far too long
 
just a thought here r.e. removing rads.... no offence lads i do appreciate people dont wanna get involved in other trades but if its the difference between gettin a job and not gettin it....i always ask em if their ok gettin the rad off and back on as i dont wanna skim round it cos it looks a c**t...
if they give it the old 'yeh i know a plumber', ill let em get on with it and give em my quote but if they look a bit lost ill charge em an extra 50 quid and do it for em...or even tell em how to do it if theyre a bit of a biy man, explaining the pitfalls obviously...it helps the pr....
trust me...its not hard, yes you can get problems as you do it such as trv's not shutting off correctly but there are easy ways round it be it gravity (cylinder in airing cupboard), combi boiler (no cylinder) or whatever and it usually involves either a 3/4 tap connector (really old rads) or a 1/2" tap connector (newer rads) and a stop end....
bleedin up is nowt to be worried about over 1 rad...you dont have to worry about inhibitors etc... neither is re drilling and positioning of the rad...
if anyone needs to know say so and ill post up some sort of method....but take every job individually...
 
hi there
its a great site hopefully i'll learn off everyone as im starting on my plastering course. if anyone can help me out here are the questions; there suppose to be easy but sometimes i cant get my head around them.
list three different types of manufactures instructions given for using plaster on site?
state three checks to be made before commencing work on a contract?
state two reasons for loss of adhesion of plaster to plasterboard?
state two reasons for quick setting plaster?
name two types of joint reinforcement available for use in two or one coat work to plasterboard?
list two methods of transferring a level across a room?
state two reasons why a plaster should be able to identify and know the properites of the background materials on which plaster is to be applied?
describle briefly the meaning of the term shelling when applied to a finishing coat of plaster surface?
explain why the floating coat is devil floated on completion?
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alrite mate a dont think you shud be askin other people to answer these questions a take it this is the questions from your city n guilds the reasons a say that is your not gonna have a clue wat your doing when it comes to doing a job you have to understand the listed questions or your gonna have problems trust me
 
erm...my post above...i got a feelin that mr grolsch answered that question for me in the wrong thread...cant think what thread i was supposed to be answerin..somethin about not removin rads....that was it...the bathroom one i think...maybe not... :-[
 
might have been the one where the customer asked about the rad and there was a difference of opinion on whos job it was...
any chance you could shift it to tips and tricks or somewhere dp??
 
We used to be "really helpful" and took rads etc off. More hassle than its worth one of the guys that worked for us took of a rad and drained down the heating system, timer kicked in and heating came on when there was no water in the system, had to pay aboot £150 to fix the boiler and not long after that fired the dick that drained heating system! An expensive lesson. Get the customer to remove things or you are liable!
 
might have been the one where the customer asked about the rad and there was a difference of opinion on whos job it was...
any chance you could shift it to tips and tricks or somewhere dp??
Click to expand...

do it yourself
;D
 
Heard a spread years ago talking about shelling, i call it crazing , plaster drying  out to quickly  is that right ?
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shelling is when the plaster comes away from the board when skimming .due to dust on boards,board wet before applying plaster ,the presence of lime in the mix . cure and prevention...clean down and reset the work.prior to plastering, dust of boards must be done by a dry method do not wet boards , use only board finnish,do not lime come into contact with boards hope this can help ;)
 
Had this problem a few times but its only been on original walls, walls have been sealed with pva but before putting second coat on some bits have been cracking. After second coat its fine but it does'nt look great. Weird thing is if walls look really dry/porous we go mental with the pva but sometimes you still get caught oot!
 
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