How do you run a cornice?

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

PlasterV

Member
Hi, I was just interested in how you actually run a cornice? What would the reverse profile to run the cornice be made out of? Wood? Metal?.

Thanks, just would like some basic knowledge on it.
 
hi its made of zinc the profile thats cuts the shape of the cornice and its all held in wood thats the frame we call it a horse and a slipper, brace nib etc... there are various different types of moulds we could go on all night!!! but the two types are reverse used to cast moulds and just straight run stuff either run up on a bench or on the job i.e in-stu, there are a few top fibrous spreads on here mike etc.. who could put you straight on any project regards stuy
 
As said before there are two ways casting from a reverse mould or running it in situ.
Casting from a reverse mould is far easier and quicker when several sections are required.

Zinc is the most common sheet metal to use for cutting profiles out although I use the sheet metal you buy from car auto part stores. Not sure if the metal varies. It's a little thicker (harder to cut too!!) But more sturdy.

If this anything you need to know just let me know.

www.michaeljadams.co.uk
07841919406
Fibrous plaster mouldings.
 
Run the profile then using enrichments bed them in after. If making several. Casts make a silicone mould of the whole length of cornice with enrichments. If it works out cost effective.

www.michaeljadams.co.uk
07841919406
Fibrous plaster mouldings.
 
mikeadams1985 said:
Run the profile then using enrichments bed them in after. If making several. Casts make a silicone mould of the whole length of cornice with enrichments. If it works out cost effective.

www.michaeljadams.co.uk
07841919406
Fibrous plaster mouldings.
Click to expand...

Very specialised aspect of the craft making a full silicone mould,
Especially if the enrichments are undercut, also ensuring the lines are perfectly straight,
 
Loren said:
I use aluminum Link Removed
Click to expand...
Loren just like to say your work looks fantastic, certainly on a par with @mikeadams1985 I really enjoyed doing my advanced craft at college many moons ago and only ever had to fix fibrous work since and quite a few repairs to insitu work but nothing to the scale what I've seen from you guys. Its good to know this kind of work is still done instead of the solid polymer things a lot of customers are favouring because of cost I guess?? :RpS_confused:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
yeah, cost is the main factor for less insitu stuff.

Pre cast in the work shop is
Quicker to manufacture and lighter (which results in quicker fix time)

it all comes down to time = Money

Only when english heritage/conservation get involved do you rarely have to go the in-situ method
 
Had to do some in-situ cornice a few weeks back.

the profile was literally a straight line, but with lathing it out, then doing a couple of cores and then final run. In total it took 4 days, spread out over 2 weeks to allow sufficient drying between each core.

If they had let us do a pre cast, i could have gone to site and fitted in one day.

Big cost difference there.
 
Marshy said:
Loren just like to say your work looks fantastic, certainly on a par with @mikeadams1985 I really enjoyed doing my advanced craft at college many moons ago and only ever had to fix fibrous work since and quite a few repairs to insitu work but nothing to the scale what I've seen from you guys. Its good to know this kind of work is still done instead of the solid polymer things a lot of customers are favouring because of cost I guess?? :RpS_confused:
Click to expand...
well said marshy!!! these blokes are putting out some superb stuff i also do mainly in situ repair when needed and fixing , i am a great believer in the whole art of plastering from solid right through to the very complex stuff these guys are producing you and we are keeping these skills alive and a few more ryanswart along the way would also help !!!! stuy
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes indeed @ryanswart is very keen and taken some stick on here aswell (from myself included) but fair play to the lad he's taken it and sounds a decent guy to me. Nice to know you enjoy this kind of work too stuy :-)

Sent from my GT-S7710 using The Plasterers Forum mobile app
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hand nibbles or electric/air compressor ones?
There meant to be decent at cutting lines without distorting the metal.
I've gone off tin snips and use a.jigsaw with a hss blade.
Do want to try a nibbler though. Can get the air compressor ones for around 30quid now

www.michaeljadams.co.uk
07841919406
Fibrous plaster mouldings.
 
i had a little go with a electric one years ago to see what it was like mate , as i remember it was very good indeed , but they were a good make (feine £350 ) but they are a bit pricey here, maybe with the chinese knocking all sorts of stuff out they may come down in price? been an interesting thread this i wont be around for a week i am off in the morning to canary islands happy new year!
 
ryanswart said:
Must be hard to file as zinc is softer to file
Click to expand...
Hi Ryan, There are different grades of aluminum, the stuff I use is pretty soft. I found a metal yard that has all kinds of scrap aluminum & I go in there once a year and buy a few nice scraps. Long time go I picked up some that is totally unusable for cutting, way too hard of an alloy, so now I can tell which is the soft stuff and the stuff to stay away from.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Share this page

Back
Top