How flat & level should it be?

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plumbone

New Member
How flat & level should it be?
Hi Guys,
For my sins I'm in the bathroom bashing game & have been using the same spreads for a number of years.Most of the rooms I tackle need tiling, so after rip out, I ask the for the room to be bonded & skimmed. They always deliver a smooth finish, but on quite a few rooms of late, I've had to use 3 or 4 extra bags of tile addy to fill the voids & make it tileable. Is to much to ask that they use a level or straight edge to get it flat & level? See pic.
 
It should be flat if they know your tiling it, how wide is the wall and have you a pic touching at both ends?
 
Do you fit the bath before they come in or is the room totally clear with just first fix ?
 
plumbone said:
View attachment 17778 Hi Guys,
For my sins I'm in the bathroom bashing game & have been using the same spreads for a number of years.Most of the rooms I tackle need tiling, so after rip out, I ask the for the room to be bonded & skimmed. They always deliver a smooth finish, but on quite a few rooms of late, I've had to use 3 or 4 extra bags of tile addy to fill the voids & make it tileable. Is to much to ask that they use a level or straight edge to get it flat & level? See pic.
Click to expand...
The tiles look out tho......
 
plumbone said:
View attachment 17778 Hi Guys,
For my sins I'm in the bathroom bashing game & have been using the same spreads for a number of years.Most of the rooms I tackle need tiling, so after rip out, I ask the for the room to be bonded & skimmed. They always deliver a smooth finish, but on quite a few rooms of late, I've had to use 3 or 4 extra bags of tile addy to fill the voids & make it tileable. Is to much to ask that they use a level or straight edge to get it flat & level? See pic.
Click to expand...
And the lvl ain't touching the wall in the pic at the tile end!
 
Difficult to photo one handed!Had a reply from my man saying if you want it totally flat full board wall or full bond. They know the room is to be tiled, ffs why wouldn't you want it flat & plumb? I think job & knock for these boys is what's more important!


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plumbone said:
View attachment 17778 Hi Guys,
For my sins I'm in the bathroom bashing game & have been using the same spreads for a number of years.Most of the rooms I tackle need tiling, so after rip out, I ask the for the room to be bonded & skimmed. They always deliver a smooth finish, but on quite a few rooms of late, I've had to use 3 or 4 extra bags of tile addy to fill the voids & make it tileable. Is to much to ask that they use a level or straight edge to get it flat & level? See pic.
Click to expand...


If its to be tiled on and you spent the money on 3-4 extra bags of addy, you where best to reboard it and tile on a flat wall. f**k chasing your tale with uneven walls because that way, you grout lines will be a nightmare to keep perfect!

As for your stabila level, your a f**k**g hallion! lol. Thou in saying that, im the same when tiling, messy f**k*r at times.
 
You need to get a proper plasterer maybe not a skimmer. Most "plasterers" under 35/40 wont know how to float a wall properly.
Should be plumb and flat.
 
Fatarm said:
A good tiler would just deal with it..ffs:rolleyes:...

Or if it's beyond you.. Just put Wet wall on(y)
Click to expand...
And I thought it was us spreads get all the blame for when it gos tits up and no credit when the project looks great....the mind boggles ,if you can use the lvl to tile straight ffs you could glue some boards on surely! I mean am a spread but if ever out of work I would easily pass for a tiler np!
 
plumbone said:
View attachment 17778 Hi Guys,
For my sins I'm in the bathroom bashing game & have been using the same spreads for a number of years.Most of the rooms I tackle need tiling, so after rip out, I ask the for the room to be bonded & skimmed. They always deliver a smooth finish, but on quite a few rooms of late, I've had to use 3 or 4 extra bags of tile addy to fill the voids & make it tileable. Is to much to ask that they use a level or straight edge to get it flat & level? See pic.
Click to expand...
:burlas:
 
I use to plaster about 3 bathrooms a week... some of the shite I had to get over... also had the fitter nagging to get stuff done... Always get it near enough :D
 
If you've been using same spreads surely you would have to say boys this has to be plumb and level or like most plasterers boys would just flatten it for tiling I wouldn't be buying the extra tubs of gear for the next ten years or change your spreads just tell them what you need I'm sure it can get sorted don't think they be happy to see the big finger test pic on here ha ha
 
Throw that level in a bin by a decent one. If they can make it pissed they can make it straight. it's not that hard. Bang some bonding on there, get that level I told you to throw away and rule it off and dock them £60.
 
Would never consider bonding / skimming walls to be tiled ,back to brick/block then plasterboard walls.. all your tile cuts are same
Tile Adhesive same
Can get your corner square for shower trays
Job looks top notch & dry line yourself no one else to blame (y)
 
jet said:
Would never consider bonding / skimming walls to be tiled ,back to brick/block then plasterboard walls.. all your tile cuts are same
Tile Adhesive same
Can get your corner square for shower trays
Job looks top notch & dry line yourself no one else to blame (y)
Click to expand...


Nothing wrong with tiling onto skimmed walls. Just make sure to prime it first however i always give it a wee scrape with the tile trowel aswell. As for bondng, ive tiled on bonded walls however one isnt supposed to because if any water gets in behind the tiles(which can happen), it can soften the bonding up and tiles can pop off.

Tiling onto brick/block walls can be a nightmare aswell if not built properly!
 
I may be the only one but I think your spreads may not have allowed to straighten the walls in the price, we don't know what it was like before, guessing it was all over the place and 500 might not have cut it. Think next time might be best to talk to them before they price it so they know what your expecting. Some wall ie door walls if the go the wrong way then would cause alot of grief to get straight.
 
CeeVee said:
You need to get a proper plasterer maybe not a skimmer. Most "plasterers" under 35/40 wont know how to float a wall properly.
Should be plumb and flat.
Click to expand...

Get f**k*d mush i turned 35 a couple of weeks back and I was taught by a REAL plasterer and I'm very good at float and skim, any more comments like that and you'll see what I can do with a feather edge lol


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IMO if its to be tiled floor to ceiling etc.

Be better to ask for fresh boardwork dot & dab without being skimmed that way you can expect to get the walls bang on and not paying for skimming which is not needed.
 
themucky1 said:
Get f**k*d mush i turned 35 a couple of weeks back and I was taught by a REAL plasterer and I'm very good at float and skim, any more comments like that and you'll see what I can do with a feather edge lol


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Click to expand...
:musculoso:I did say..."most"!!!
 
This is where the half time sachet stuff can come in if it speeds up your undercoat setting time too.
Will it work on hardwall?
 
I always rough (render) with waterproof s&c and devil float walls in bathrooms. Tiler tiles stright on top the render.

I dont and never will trust bonded walls in a bathroom, bonding is like a sponge. It dont take much for the water to find it.
 
You asked for the room to be bonded and skimmed that's what they probably have done for you? So if you ask them to float & set or dab the room out level and square that's what they will do....
 
Gotta be careful what is said the last tiler who came on here was talking about police wanting phone numbers company names and playing the moral high ground with a few, you want it bang on you pay bang on money maybe a wake up call that plastering is actually an art, how come you ain't kept the same plasterer for every job?
 
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