How to tackle this?

R

richard pitman

New Member
How to tackle this?
Hi all,

Working on quite a large project and have a timber frame joining a solid wall along the same line. Was going to batten the solid and then board across both but worried the frame may settle and obviously the wall won't so might crack?

Any ideas if this would happen and if so how to proceed?

Thanks
 
richard pitman said:
View attachment 16596 Hi all,

Working on quite a large project and have a timber frame joining a solid wall along the same line. Was going to batten the solid and then board across both but worried the frame may settle and obviously the wall won't so might crack?

Any ideas if this would happen and if so how to proceed?

Thanks
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That's an odd way of doing it? Not that great either, there should be at least six horizontals it a stud that height which would help to prevent some of the movement, stop the stud 'whipping' and also give you something to fix to.

If you do ave to work with it as it is, I would suggest the best you can do would be to put a full board with the centre over the joint between the block/brickwork and the stud. Loads of dab on the blockwork and plenty of screws in the studs.

Personally I'd put in the horizontals before doing anything else.
 
So how about vertical battens on the block then horizontal battens across both then board out?

Not to worried about losing room space just want it done the best way it can be.

It's also the placement space for the boiler if that matters in any way.
 
richard pitman said:
So how about vertical battens on the block then horizontal battens across both then board out?

Not to worried about losing room space just want it done the best way it can be.

It's also the placement space for the boiler if that matters in any way.
Click to expand...

If that's the case then I'd suggest full width horizontal studs (3" x 2") fixed with the 3" side flat to the wall and studs, cut noggins to go in between them. That will give a stable base to fix the boards to, and it will also give you a 2" cavity to run all your pipes and cables in which will make it all neater.

Avoid putting two layers of timbers onto the blockwork as that will make movement more likely rather than less. Fixing the timber to the blocks using frame fixings would be best. Screwed and plugged would be a close second but is more of a faff as you'll have to mark, drill, plug, put the timber back in place etc. If you use frame fixings you can screw the timber to the existing studs to hold them in place, then go through the timber into the block and knock in the fixings.
 
So in effect I'm building a false wall. Ok sounds a solid plan so I'll do it that way, thanks for help.

Not sure about the cavity for pipes as I'll block it with the horizontal 3x2 but can probably route them in somehow.
 
richard pitman said:
So in effect I'm building a false wall. Ok sounds a solid plan so I'll do it that way, thanks for help.

Not sure about the cavity for pipes as I'll block it with the horizontal 3x2 but can probably route them in somehow.
Click to expand...

You drill through them and then feed the pipes through, but if you don't need to then it's not worth the bother. Just keeps a wall looking tidy, saves notching worktops or boxing them in etc.
 
Marshy said:
I wasn't insinuating your a DIYer mate as for me on the other hand :eek:
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Building work is DIY, it just takes a long time to learn all the stuff you need to know, and you get paid after you've finished. (y)
 
imago said:
Building work is DIY, it just takes a long time to learn all the stuff you need to know, and you get paid after you've finished. (y)
Click to expand...

The only difference between a tradesman and a diyer is that the tradesman knows all the bodges.
 
I've got some spare 4x2 lying around if I rip it in half would 2x2 work? (50mm x 50mm in new money!)

Just discovered it's not level across the join so going to have to pack out the studs anyway.
 
richard pitman said:
I've got some spare 4x2 lying around if I rip it in half would 2x2 work? (50mm x 50mm in new money!)

Just discovered it's not level across the join so going to have to pack out the studs anyway.
Click to expand...

How much is it not level by? If you batten the wall you're going to have carry it on across the spanlites to the other side of the opening etc to keep the same line. Get the template for your boiler and mark out where its going to hang. Get some noggins in there for it to hang on. Sort out your pipework and cables. Noggin the rest of the studwork. Get some OSB board and clad the studwork. Leave an opening in it for your flue. Screw your plasterboard to the OSB making sure it laps the wall a few inches then dab the board on the wall to the same depth.
 
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