Insulating Victorian walls

[Jbeesy718]

Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.

 

[bobski]

No gypliner unless you have a massive house

D + D insulated plasterboard, the more expensive ones perform way better. Although the basic still does a job.

Wickes' version - around £40 right now - does a bloody good job for the thickness.

Knauf XPS Laminate Plus Tapered Edge Insulated Plasterboard - 27 x 1200 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Knauf XPS Laminate Plus Tapered Edge Insulated Plasterboard - 27 x 1200 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

 

[Bricktop]

Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.

Specialist Insulation Systems designer & distributor

SWIP provides Internal Wall Insulation, Room In Roof, Under Floor Insulation, and Loft Storage Solutions. Nationwide delivery. Call us on 0121 384 1029.

www.swipiwi.co.uk

The insulated studs minimise cold bridging. You could do the same with normal studs but would require an overlay of PIR board.

 

[johniosaif]

I'd do a 60 mm stud,fill it with insulation, then board and skim
Solid insulation

 

[Dollar]

Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.

Forget it you loose too much room IMO all plaster off skirting sockets need to be brought forward window reveals will be tricky no depth on frames , poss loss of coving


Your problem is cold air meeting the warm

Suretherm thermal anti condensation paint | Paint to stop condensation and mould | Lancashire | Suretherm

Suretherm Anti Condensation Paint is an independently tested paint designed to stop damp and mould on walls, ceilings and bathrooms which has been caused by condensation. As condensation is reduced, unsightly and potentially harmful black mould will not grow. It is perfect for cold walls and...

www.surethermsystem.com

Your welcome

 

[FreeD]

If you can use Instastick foam and bond the insulated board directly to the existing

 

[tapit]

insulation to walls, silver tape to joins. battens across insulation then plasterboard screwed to battens.

 

[theshed]

If you can use Instastick foam and bond the insulated board directly to the existing

I used Instastick to fix 25mm celotex then stuck 12.5mm over the top on my house. It is now so cheap to heat. Wickes cheapest 25mm celotex type insulation is £23 +£8 for plasterboard . Bargain and thats without the 10% trade discount.

 

[Jbeesy718]

Forget it you loose too much room IMO all plaster off skirting sockets need to be brought forward window reveals will be tricky no depth on frames , poss loss of coving


Your problem is cold air meeting the warm

Suretherm thermal anti condensation paint | Paint to stop condensation and mould | Lancashire | Suretherm

Suretherm Anti Condensation Paint is an independently tested paint designed to stop damp and mould on walls, ceilings and bathrooms which has been caused by condensation. As condensation is reduced, unsightly and potentially harmful black mould will not grow. It is perfect for cold walls and...

www.surethermsystem.com

Your welcome

Seen these paints another brand claiming to do the same. Have you experience with the paint or just a recommendation? Seems to good to be true to me?‍

 

[Jbeesy718]

Specialist Insulation Systems designer & distributor

SWIP provides Internal Wall Insulation, Room In Roof, Under Floor Insulation, and Loft Storage Solutions. Nationwide delivery. Call us on 0121 384 1029.

www.swipiwi.co.uk

The insulated studs minimise cold bridging. You could do the same with normal studs but would require an overlay of PIR board.

Thanks going to look into iwi.

No gypliner unless you have a massive house

D + D insulated plasterboard, the more expensive ones perform way better. Although the basic still does a job.

Wickes' version - around £40 right now - does a bloody good job for the thickness.

Knauf XPS Laminate Plus Tapered Edge Insulated Plasterboard - 27 x 1200 x 2400mm | Wickes.co.uk

Knauf XPS Laminate Plus Tapered Edge Insulated Plasterboard - 27 x 1200 x 2400mm

www.wickes.co.uk

House isn’t massive but could lose 70mm either side of it helped with efficiency of the house and reduce the possibility of condensation. Just be worried about moisture between the pir and brick wall as there won’t be any ventilation.

 

[Jbeesy718]

I used Instastick to fix 25mm celotex then stuck 12.5mm over the top on my house. It is now so cheap to heat. Wickes cheapest 25mm celotex type insulation is £23 +£8 for plasterboard . Bargain and thats without the 10% trade discount.

Did you do this on your own house? Or know if it’s resolved the issue? Just a little concerned moisture could form between the pir and brick wall, run down and cause damp at floor level.

 

[Jbeesy718]

I'd do a 60 mm stud,fill it with insulation, then board and skim
Solid insulation

Straight back to the brick or leave a cavity?

 

[theshed]

My own house, we had damp issues. It had been injected but that's a waste ot time as any guarantee is not worth a w@nk.

 

[Dollar]

Seen these paints another brand claiming to do the same. Have you experience with the paint or just a recommendation? Seems to good to be true to me?‍

Yes have had some renter with issue cottage
Solid walls same mould near furniture
but works put your hand on wall when dry & then untreated area you will get how it works


The stuff dries a bit orange peel but can decorate over with your choice
Worth a punt @ £70 on your situation

your welcome

 

[Dollar]

My own house, we had damp issues. It had been injected but that's a waste ot time as any guarantee is not worth a w@nk.

Yes likely external ground too high & bridging & either or cavity full or solid construction
Rising damp is another unicorn

your welcome

 

[theshed]

We live mid terrace, Victorian house near major river.

 

[johniosaif]

Straight back to the brick or leave a cavity?

Back to brick

 

[Jbeesy718]

Yes have had some renter with issue cottage
Solid walls same mould near furniture
but works put your hand on wall when dry & then untreated area you will get how it works


The stuff dries a bit orange peel but can decorate over with your choice
Worth a punt @ £70 on your situation

your welcome

Think the previous owners have used this upstairs in the master bed when I stripped the paper it looked like orange peel. Thought it was an oil based paint like zinsser so I ran over it with a drywall sander Thinking the paint might not take properly‍

 

[bobski]

Thanks going to look into iwi.

House isn’t massive but could lose 70mm either side of it helped with efficiency of the house and reduce the possibility of condensation. Just be worried about moisture between the pir and brick wall as there won’t be any ventilation.

I wouldn't worry so much about condensation.
The board (insulation) slows down the transfer so massively decreases the chances.

If you have moisture present (check with meter/tester now) through possible damp (rising or penetrating) obviously address that first and make sure you're bone dry before committing to the board.

 

[jamesthefirst]

Remember that stuff plasteronestop were sponsoring that was troweled on about 1mmm and had plastic bead technology? You had to go on a training course.

 

[FreeD]

I wouldn't worry so much about condensation.
The board (insulation) slows down the transfer so massively decreases the chances.

If you have moisture present (check with meter/tester now) through possible damp (rising or penetrating) obviously address that first and make sure you're bone dry before committing to the board.

Or put a damp proof membrane on first

 

[S a plastering]

Hack it all off delta membrane fixwed to brickwork then gypliner with 25mm celotex inbetween then duplex plaster boards