Internal damp walls

You say the wall will be insulated- how? By putting celotex? And how will that insulate the wall with , as you are stating, with air gap , which will contribute to more condensation behind the wall. It's not a cavity wall. By doing all this you will replacate IWI, which in my opinion turns every room, house in aqarium.Why? Because doesn not leave much of hot air through and does not help controlling the moisture in the room.This system is more likely to be seen on site, but now is slowly changing to better execution- ready panels. Normal cavity wall does not work as it should do to moisture bridge and temperature loss. However , the new panels are much better! Brick in front, wp membrane , insulation and closed with concrete. That's close to the maximum requirements to make a cavity wall working- wp membrane is stoping any water to pass which makes the whole difference . In your case water will be always there and trapping it behind , or , within the wall will make no sense. Any solid wall should be able to breath and dry . The difference between site building and domestic is site walls are trying to minimise moisture penetration to minimum whether . Houses will have to deal with managing the moisture penetration and evaporation . That's the bottom line and you can't mix it. If the label says insulating, it doesn't mean that in your case will work.
Thanks for reading and good luck(y)
 
Sbr/cement slurry,scratch laid up well before sbr had set,labourer in front painting it on.
Scratch coat 4-1 sand/cement with free flow.Sand was 50/50 washed plastering and sharp silver.
Belcast/stop bead installed at dpc to prevent bridging(render was bridging before)
5-1 top coat again with free flow.Flattened and floated.
Tyrolean finish coat

3 coats of weathersheild masonary paint.First coat 50/50 thinned
 
Tha
vfr12 said:
You say the wall will be insulated- how? By putting celotex? And how will that insulate the wall with , as you are stating, with air gap , which will contribute to more condensation behind the wall. It's not a cavity wall. By doing all this you will replacate IWI, which in my opinion turns every room, house in aqarium.Why? Because doesn not leave much of hot air through and does not help controlling the moisture in the room.This system is more likely to be seen on site, but now is slowly changing to better execution- ready panels. Normal cavity wall does not work as it should do to moisture bridge and temperature loss. However , the new panels are much better! Brick in front, wp membrane , insulation and closed with concrete. That's close to the maximum requirements to make a cavity wall working- wp membrane is stoping any water to pass which makes the whole difference . In your case water will be always there and trapping it behind , or , within the wall will make no sense. Any solid wall should be able to breath and dry . The difference between site building and domestic is site walls are trying to minimise moisture penetration to minimum whether . Houses will have to deal with managing the moisture penetration and evaporation . That's the bottom line and you can't mix it. If the label says insulating, it doesn't mean that in your case will work.
Thanks for reading and good luck(y)
Click to expand...
That was always my first concern that i needed a way of doing it by which the wall could breathe whilst minimising condensation.If id just straight rendered it,i think it would effectively be no different to how it was originally.I was attempting to create a cavity,small though it would be,to try and give the wall a thermal/moisture break.
Ive gone through loads of posts on here but with no set answer.
 
Make sure you get it dried out for a start, dehumidifier going till its not filling up and ensure you keep the room sealed doors closed etc.
Then anti sulphate the wall and either sbr scratch it and spot insulated boards or renovating plaster as external walls are always colder you need to help in stopping as much heat less as you can now you have the walls stripped off.
The insulated board method is popular these days and a lot faster too.
 
Internal damp walls
Phil may said:
Tha

That was always my first concern that i needed a way of doing it by which the wall could breathe whilst minimising condensation.If id just straight rendered it,i think it would effectively be no different to how it was originally.I was attempting to create a cavity,small though it would be,to try and give the wall a thermal/moisture break.
Ive gone through loads of posts on here but with no set answer.
Click to expand...

Ask your self a simple question! How can the wall breath and let the moisture out , when you have air gap, without significant damage? Here is how cavity wall works. You have 1 cold wall,1 warm wall, insulation in between and air gap. We all know what happens when hot meets cold- condensation. And the air will will help to circle and were it will end, God knows, but will be definitely on the internal wall.Unless is made like this, no air gap at all. Just like the picture above I Took today btw.310mm compressed wall with WP membrane and insulation. If you can see the brick is not even full size, because it will dry quicker and they don't bother how much rain water will get to it. The membrane will stop it and the half size will help drying quicker. The best solution for any traditional wall is breathable render which will allow moisture to travel both ways. That's my personal opinion btw and you can't have the same treatment across the country. There are too many thinks to be taken on board before the right spec is issued . And before you proceed , just let the wall dry, as has mentioned. This is maybe the most important thing to do before you decide on the internal.
 
Different approaches for different scenarios I think, but making sure you dry the wall out is the most important thing to do. I sometimes hack off the render and then lend a customer a dehumidifier for a week or two until they have dried out the walls as much as possible.
I have worked for companies who hack off and re-render same day and I think personally its the wrong way to do it. But they have to get on the next job as they have profits to take care off lol.
 
At the end of the day the house was probably fine for the last, let's say 50 years and I guarantee when it was first built looked mint. Nothing's changed apart from our habits and s**t alterations, once you go back to how it was and compensate the changes in the house usage it will work. Sometimes an insulation is needed or a vent but usually putting it back to the way it was fixes the problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top