Bookemdanno
New Member
Hi guys!
I just need a little nudge in the right direction from you experienced K Spreaders, please?
Going to 2 pass K-Rend WP over a pizza oven dome. I've made some curved trowels to the circumference i need.
Backing substrate is Vermicrete, which is Vermiculite bound with OPC and Hydrated Lime.
I'll probably make a break between any potentially warm to hot brickwork of the chimney too, which i'll heat proof mastic later.
The Vermicrete is relatively dry, but i want it to stay that way and would prefer not to dampen it down.
Do you think that it's going to be too thirsty?
Or will i be the only one to know that when it happens, and the render turns to dust off the trowel!
Then onto getting the Krend on...
Do you scratch key the first pass?
Do you get it on, tighten it up and then get straight onto a second pass without keying?
Can the scratch key'd first pass be left overnight or days later before second pass?
I know that the normal method of finish is to scarify back to leave an open texture, but this will be hard on a dome, so i'll just sponge finish and rub up with one of my curved wooden floats. Thats how i finished the previous Hydraulic Lime Render, which was too young to handle a minus 10 Winter!
Thanks for your help, and be gentle please!
I just need a little nudge in the right direction from you experienced K Spreaders, please?
Going to 2 pass K-Rend WP over a pizza oven dome. I've made some curved trowels to the circumference i need.
Backing substrate is Vermicrete, which is Vermiculite bound with OPC and Hydrated Lime.
I'll probably make a break between any potentially warm to hot brickwork of the chimney too, which i'll heat proof mastic later.
The Vermicrete is relatively dry, but i want it to stay that way and would prefer not to dampen it down.
Do you think that it's going to be too thirsty?
Or will i be the only one to know that when it happens, and the render turns to dust off the trowel!
Then onto getting the Krend on...
Do you scratch key the first pass?
Do you get it on, tighten it up and then get straight onto a second pass without keying?
Can the scratch key'd first pass be left overnight or days later before second pass?
I know that the normal method of finish is to scarify back to leave an open texture, but this will be hard on a dome, so i'll just sponge finish and rub up with one of my curved wooden floats. Thats how i finished the previous Hydraulic Lime Render, which was too young to handle a minus 10 Winter!
Thanks for your help, and be gentle please!
