K-Rend Crap.

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Jgreenplastering

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So used K rend for the first time this week.
Was taught with Weber and only use that or Parex.

Had to use k tend to match rest of house.
Never underestimated on a job before but managed to come up short so had to first pass and then key it and order 4 bags.

Laying it is like using wet sand and no cement real vile.
Got a scratch it later and hopefully it scratches ok.

It was FT Silicone stone colour.

Never using it again if I can help it. Sticking to what I like.

Just started using Parex and that's lovely to lay and scratch.
There product range also makes that my new favourite.
Never had issues with Weber but there range is small.
 
Sounds like PEBTAW to me....

Always double mix FT and run it a touch softer rather than stiffer. It'll behave nicely after that, not as easy as the non silicone renders but still, its ok.
 
PEBTAW?
Come again?
I've just got here now and it's still soft! Clumping on the scratcher!
I had it on by 9 and it was over a first pass that was done the other day! Christ it's slow set!
 
I'm sure Krend has one of the worst coverage per bag not even a mtr a bag more like 0.8
 
PEBTAW?
Come again?
I've just got here now and it's still soft! Clumping on the scratcher!
I had it on by 9 and it was over a first pass that was done the other day! Christ it's slow set!

Problem. Exists. Between. Trowel. And. Wall. You in other words.

It appears I was correct. I hope you primed if you applied over a few days old first pass, do you normally do that?
 
First pass the other day?

Yea.
Had no choice.
Was short so could do the lot and just keyed the first pass. 4 days between coats.
Never usually do this and no I didn't prime it, do people prime when they bead up with some mono before they lay?
Should be fine. I'll fix it if not.
Thanks for the answers Chaps.
I won't be using it again though was vile to lay regardless
 
Yea.
Had no choice.
Was short so could do the lot and just keyed the first pass. 4 days between coats.
Never usually do this and no I didn't prime it, do people prime when they bead up with some mono before they lay?
Should be fine. I'll fix it if not.
Thanks for the answers Chaps.
I won't be using it again though was vile to lay regardless

2 pass wet on wet. Anything else and the gear is out of designed spec. You can't moan about gear if you aren't applying right in the first place.

Coverage at 15mm is 0.8 a 25kg bag always has been. Parex pulls just over a metre at 30kg no matter what the reps reckon. Do the math.

FT is fine when you know what you are doing, it's isn't if you don't.

What you going to do if the punter wants FT? Walk away, or try to fill em with shite?

You're the plasterer, learn the gear or miss business.
 
We use to hand apply loads of ft before we went to machine and never had any problems. Good gear when you know how to use it
 
Krend is better if u mix twice pal.
It is very gritty to use but u do get used to it and the coverage is near the worst on the market at leas than 0.8 a metre.

Problem u got if you put a pass on already a few days prior then the silicone and waterproofers if any will be holding it further back and also its a slow set anyway.

2 pass it next time in the same application
 
Used k1 on one of my own jobs this week.

We have done the same, we have first passed and meshed about 30m2 but we fooked the machine up after second passing about 15m2, so I hand balled it to a break in the wall and left 10m2, we've been advised to re-prime it and top off as normal, ideally though, as said you want to be wet on wet.

Regarding the gear it is a slow setter, we were on today for 10 and it wasn't ready to rub til 5, but we have struggled with our machine this week, it does rub up nice thought, better than weber, which I find brittle.
 
2 pass wet on wet. Anything else and the gear is out of designed spec. You can't moan about gear if you aren't applying right in the first place.

Coverage at 15mm is 0.8 a 25kg bag always has been. Parex pulls just over a metre at 30kg no matter what the reps reckon. Do the math.

FT is fine when you know what you are doing, it's isn't if you don't.

What you going to do if the punter wants FT? Walk away, or try to fill em with shite?

You're the plasterer, learn the gear or miss business.

I don't think you get what I've said.
Have you read from the start?

I never do this but I was using k rend for first time and didn't realise it's less coverage than weber.
Soooo id already started and realised it was gonna be short so just done one pass as I'd already had it on.

Regardless of the above I didn't like the rest of the laying I'd done on other walls, its vile up to Pral and monorex.

And yes every job I quote I spec Weber or Parex, the majority of spreads I know prefer these as well.

If the client insists on K rend I won't do it simple. Don't need to and wont. That's my preference but no skin off my back, jobs not worth me having if client won't listen to me in first place.
 
Thanks for all the advice.
Doubt I'll ever use it again anyway but will bear in mind if I do. As for manufacturer saying prime again before going over why don't they say to do this when you muck your beads in with mono a day or few before you top?
They just love going over the top don't they.
 
Why has the client got to listen to you? It's not your property lol.

Learn the job, realise every material is different and give the punter what they want. If a decorator told you he won't apply dulux after you'd spent hours listening to the Mrs pick the colour you'd think they were an idiot no?
 
Thanks for all the advice.
Doubt I'll ever use it again anyway but will bear in mind if I do. As for manufacturer saying prime again before going over why don't they say to do this when you muck your beads in with mono a day or few before you top?
They just love going over the top don't they.

What's putting beads on got to do with anything I'm curious to know?
 
Thanks for all the advice.
Doubt I'll ever use it again anyway but will bear in mind if I do. As for manufacturer saying prime again before going over why don't they say to do this when you muck your beads in with mono a day or few before you top?
They just love going over the top don't they.

We are in the same boat, difference only being we are using K1, we re r10 primed it on the advise of k-rend, we asked because we offer our own and their guarantee so we had to ask.

Regarding beading, I pin my beads on with fir tree fixings, we never stick them on.

Ring k-rend, get the info straight from the horses mouth
 
A good experienced renderer can deal with most renders tbh.....so many different products out there....know what you like and like what you know;)
 
Used k1 on one of my own jobs this week.

We have done the same, we have first passed and meshed about 30m2 but we fooked the machine up after second passing about 15m2, so I hand balled it to a break in the wall and left 10m2, we've been advised to re-prime it and top off as normal, ideally though, as said you want to be wet on wet.

Regarding the gear it is a slow setter, we were on today for 10 and it wasn't ready to rub til 5, but we have struggled with our machine this week, it does rub up nice thought, better than weber, which I find brittle.

If there's not a lot of suction, breeze and lowish temps you can add a couple of hours onto your day but same day should be usually easily achievable this time of year with Weber and K Rend. Parex is the slowest of the lot I find.

The machines are great until they break and it can quickly get expensive! A lot of the smaller jobs we'll hand apply and get the pump out for the bigger stuff.
 
We are in the same boat, difference only being we are using K1, we re r10 primed it on the advise of k-rend, we asked because we offer our own and their guarantee so we had to ask.

Regarding beading, I pin my beads on with fir tree fixings, we never stick them on.

Ring k-rend, get the info straight from the horses mouth


Are them fir tree fixing metal? Never seen then before fed up off buying pink grip and nailing beads on is a pain
 
Its all about the mixing with Ft k-rend as with most renders to be honest.
I have a machine now but used to hand ball ft all day long with no problems at all,
I used and still have a Atiko top pan mixer bought from refina about fifteen years ago, Get the water content bang on and let it mix for ten minutes as instructed and its great stuff, put to much water in early and the material slumps , You need to let the silicone and polymer properties in the render completely mix together otherwise it will be dead and not good to use. 5 litres per bag.
 
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We are in the same boat, difference only being we are using K1, we re r10 primed it on the advise of k-rend, we asked because we offer our own and their guarantee so we had to ask.

Regarding beading, I pin my beads on with fir tree fixings, we never stick them on.

Ring k-rend, get the info straight from the horses mouth
You got a link for them fixings mate?
 
Thanks for all the advice.
Doubt I'll ever use it again anyway but will bear in mind if I do. As for manufacturer saying prime again before going over why don't they say to do this when you muck your beads in with mono a day or few before you top?
They just love going over the top don't they.

FT is sh*t by hand, don't bother with it, like laying on lime render, needs plenty of mixing time.

Personally I stick to Weber for Mono and K Rend for silicone.

No worries laying on a few days later even a week...I used to scratch it and top it, never had a problem, it's only if you left it a month you would need to prime it.
 
A good experienced renderer can deal with most renders tbh.....so many different products out there....know what you like and like what you know;)

Thats quite right @Fatarm but that doesnt mean to say that some materials out there are not crude compared to others that are nice and refined. A manufacturer only has the materials to work with that come out of their mines and if that aint the best grade for plastering then that's all they can do.

Heres another way to go. Charge a little more for using krend as its not as nice to use as the rest and has the worst coverage rate so u could make an extra butty.
 
Thats quite right @Fatarm but that doesnt mean to say that some materials out there are not crude compared to others that are nice and refined. A manufacturer only has the materials to work with that come out of their mines and if that aint the best grade for plastering then that's all they can do.

Heres another way to go. Charge a little more for using krend as its not as nice to use as the rest and has the worst coverage rate so u could make an extra butty.

The K1 is lovely though, sprays the best out of the lot I find, Parex a close second.

FT has always needed a good double mix to get the silicone going. It's not supposed to be compared to basic renders out there.
 
The K1 is lovely though, sprays the best out of the lot I find, Parex a close second.

FT has always needed a good double mix to get the silicone going. It's not supposed to be compared to basic renders out there.

I have avoided k1 due to its recall issues and them having to send out foc material to jobs when it was first released plus seen loads of pics lads have sent with terrible shrinkage issues but i do have a job coming up with k1.

Your only the second person i can recall who says k1 is better than the rest with the exception of course of the people who work for or sell krend.
I personally think parex usability makes it hard to beat but likewise granicem is equally as good and for spraying alone if u take the scraping back oit the equation enewall 2may be the best. No render (coloured mono) will spray as wet at the thickness of enewall and stay where you put it thats a fact coz ive tried them all.

Looking forward to using the k1 although it will he based with hpx first
 
I heard it had big problems when it was released, never used it then. I dare say that it would have been looked it if it was causing problems by now. I've sprayed quite a bit over the last 10 months or so and it's been fine. It will go on wet as well. I don't run it sloppy usually though.
 
Surely the sloppier it is the more chance of cracking as theres more water in and less material say per metre ? Its the way ave been taught for hand appling sand cement etc .....
 
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