K-Rend HP Base Coat Cure Time

J

Jason167

New Member
Hello Gentlemen,

I'm looking to have my self build K-rended in the forthcoming few weeks.

Two questions that maybe someone could help me with:

Is it correct that the HP Base Coat requires two weeks to cure prior to top coat application?

Also my plasterer says base coat 8-10mm (its too difficult to trowel on at 4-6mm with mesh) and 12mm scraped back to 10mm top coat. Does this sound about right?

Thanks
 
Total thickness should be 15-16mm. What's the back ground? We always use hpx base coat at 5mm with mesh and scratched for base coat then k1 top coat at 12mm scraped back to beads to get 15mm. If your plasterer wants to do 8-10mm base and 10mm top coat you're going to need 20mm beads


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Jason167 said:
Hello Gentlemen,

I'm looking to have my self build K-rended in the forthcoming few weeks.

Two questions that maybe someone could help me with:

Is it correct that the HP Base Coat requires two weeks to cure prior to top coat application?

Also my plasterer says base coat 8-10mm (its too difficult to trowel on at 4-6mm with mesh) and 12mm scraped back to 10mm top coat. Does this sound about right?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Get a plasterer who knows what they are doing quite frankly. Which hp are you using and what is the wall build up? The base coat can be topped next day for bagged top coats, it's just the bucket coats that need the wall fully cured out.

Also get an applicator who understands the material otherwise you get whiners complaining their arms hurt and other things.
 
K-Rend HP Base Coat Cure Time
K-Rend HP Base Coat Cure Time

On today topped tomorrow, plenty of time for hp12 to dry.


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Gentlemen,

Thanks for your replies.

Using HPX base coat and FT top coat.

Going onto cement boards on a timber frame build (small bungalow) approx 60m2.
 
I always thought silicone thin coat systems where the way to go on these builds but I'm far from an expert on modern render systems!
 
What's with the mental bit of beading around the none stone detail ?
Why didn't you just blend it in like on the other elevation.
 
zombie said:
I always thought silicone thin coat systems where the way to go on these builds but I'm far from an expert on modern render systems!
Click to expand...
Hpx is the right base coat for a carrier board but I'd be using there tc coat on it, bad news putting standard scratch renders on it, due to the weight and lack of flexibility of it.
It's actually a good product from k rend is the hpx, amongst all the other cheap shite render they produce.
 
You can put a scratch render on an adhesive base such as Parex ehi, it's got perlite in it and it's really fluffy to mix a bit like thistle browning, and lightweight.
 
owls said:
What's with the mental bit of beading around the none stone detail ?
Why didn't you just blend it in like on the other elevation.
Click to expand...

It's flush facing brick behind the k rend, the front is the original render to be done at a later date.



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Cheers lads, it's a shame it's not real stone because the fake stuff does look abit naff.


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Yeah, they look different when you stand in front of them. Try next time to fix the beads the other way around with nails, remove them while the render is green and blend the render with sponge or brush. Hey presto fantastico :D
 
vfr12 said:
Yeah, they look different when you stand in front of them. Try next time to fix the beads the other way around with nails, remove them while the render is green and blend the render with sponge or brush. Hey presto fantastico :D
Click to expand...
That's what I would have done, but each to there own, as long as the customers happy and all that.
 
You'd nail into fake uneven concrete stone?? if they wanted hard harris' you just tape it render onto the tape and form it.


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Hi Jason
K Rend FT has not been assessed to be used over a timber framed structure you would be better advised to use HP12 or HP14 with silicone TC15.
K Rend will also provide you with a list of render boards that you can render onto.
Good luck
 
Is it me who would just thinks it's pointless to spend the time cutting, levelling and packing the beads to not use them? When you could just tape it render past and cut back like you do with S&C raised bands. I grant we all have different methods of working with way we was taught and every job is different. I see what your saying owls and vfr12 and if that works for you, why change it!


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Topspread16 said:
Is it me who would just thinks it's pointless to spend the time cutting, levelling and packing the beads to not use them? When you could just tape it render past and cut back like you do with S&C raised bands. I grant we all have different methods of working with way we was taught and every job is different. I see what your saying owls and vfr12 and if that works for you, why change it!


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Click to expand...
Just be thankful you put coping stones on the wall tops, or you would have seen the ugly side if @owls ..................:tarjetaroja:
 
Coloured render on garden walls is a no no in my eyes and I let my customers know that. Will look dogger in no time them, more so with them being retaining.


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Arti said:
Just be thankful you put coping stones on the wall tops, or you would have seen the ugly side if @owls ..................:tarjetaroja:
Click to expand...
Listen to this lad arti trying to get in with the render crowd, to think a year or so ago he couldn't even spell render let alone knew anything about it...:rolleyes:
 
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