nickelarse
Private Member
i would charge more yes. because the material cost is more. i would charge the same labour as you, then add my gear on top. so it would be more.
large new build render
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nickelarse
Private Member
im gonna shoot myself
So why are you charging more is it just that is doesnt need painting? (well not for a few years and if its done right)
richardbrown
Private Member
Quality gear Nick, never had a problem with any Marmorit gear, I use them exclusively
spunky
Private Member
No you can still rake the joints it depends on the brick
spunky
Private Member
Yes they will make more money than you
plasterjfe
Private Member
Lets just look at it like this..
there is a gang I know of with a pump that will charge £....... for labour plus £... odd for the bag per M on a decent hit (couple hundred metres say) it will be finished smooth ready to receive paint just as it would have if done in sand and cement.
I dont know anyone who will put sand and cement on for that price
so what i recon is this bloke on here is obviously putting cost in front of spec from his post so to go as low as it comes i beleive he will need to look at bagged product.
there is a gang I know of with a pump that will charge £....... for labour plus £... odd for the bag per M on a decent hit (couple hundred metres say) it will be finished smooth ready to receive paint just as it would have if done in sand and cement.
I dont know anyone who will put sand and cement on for that price
so what i recon is this bloke on here is obviously putting cost in front of spec from his post so to go as low as it comes i beleive he will need to look at bagged product.
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spunky
Private Member
Is you're mum dead yet because I love a bit of necrophilia
you know she is ive mentioned it before your getting sadder and sadder and people are starting to notice
plasterjfe
Private Member
he adapted to the rate because thats what he was gettin on the sites
Well maybe think about what your gonna say, so what if you dont give a toss some people do and ive got five friends............................................in real life.
Its also because he has a pump it only takes one guy on the pump to set the rates and **** it up for everyone else.
Dirtybill
New Member
Well maybe think about what your gonna say, so what if you dont give a toss some people do and ive got five friends............................................in real life.
Ban him, hes a cock! (insert smiley)
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
I have to often offer a price for sand and cement and mono. Labour is usually same because most of my mono jobs need a pre rend. Then theres that sodding beading up time and theres twice as many of them. No beading up to soffits and sills with s&c. Sand & cement is about 1/3 cheaper than mono at least.
Has anyone considered also the cost of getting your capital outlay back on the machine and the cost of rotars and stators? Weber chews up R&S's and my last count it was about 35p a bag in R&S's.
The good thing about S&C is that it doesn't crack as easy as mono. No need to mesh it but if you don't mesh mono it will crack!
Has anyone considered also the cost of getting your capital outlay back on the machine and the cost of rotars and stators? Weber chews up R&S's and my last count it was about 35p a bag in R&S's.
The good thing about S&C is that it doesn't crack as easy as mono. No need to mesh it but if you don't mesh mono it will crack!
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plasterjfe
Private Member
yes but thats what i mean when i advised this geezer on here to go with a pumped bagged mortar. thats where imo he will find his best price
just for the record, I recon the bonus should go in your own pocket - thats what pays for the pump in the first place, no good in the clients pocket
spunky
Private Member
i bet I've got more friends than you're mum in real lifeWell maybe think about what your gonna say, so what if you dont give a toss some people do and ive got five friends............................................in real life.
richardbrown
Private Member
mono wont crack just because you havent meshed it that is rubbish.
I have never beaded the soffits or sills why would i
I have never beaded the soffits or sills why would i
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Dont bead up to sill and soffits? Soffits move up and down in the wind so there will be a crack where the mono touches the soffit and sills expand in the sun. Should be min 1mm gap between the bead and sill/soffit. Same with beads, min 1mm gap between the bead bottom and sill because of heat expansion. As far as I know all the mono manufacturers specify stress patches to mono don't they?
Weber even insist on a 1mm gap between the mono and sill/window frame if they are not beaded. Although the bastards don't mention this in their mono instruction book or Weber Render Solutions book only when you have called their so called tech rep out because it has cracked at window corners even after you have installed stress patches. No expansion gap and its all you fault! They make it up as they go along.
£25 a metre is cheap. £35 is more like it.
Weber even insist on a 1mm gap between the mono and sill/window frame if they are not beaded. Although the bastards don't mention this in their mono instruction book or Weber Render Solutions book only when you have called their so called tech rep out because it has cracked at window corners even after you have installed stress patches. No expansion gap and its all you fault! They make it up as they go along.
£25 a metre is cheap. £35 is more like it.
richardbrown
Private Member
So why dont you bead up to the soffit and sills with s/c then? they are still gonna flap, expand and crack just the same.
Honest I have used mono for years and have never used a stress patch (I have a pile of them in the lockup) and have never beaded a soffit and have NEVER had a call back about a crack. (maybe they lost my number lol)
Honest I have used mono for years and have never used a stress patch (I have a pile of them in the lockup) and have never beaded a soffit and have NEVER had a call back about a crack. (maybe they lost my number lol)
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
It probably doe's crack but a only 6mm it doesn't show up as much. As for sill well sand and cement is softer and rubs away but mono is hard, thick and brittle.
Lucky you if you have not had comebacks but for me I know what that Weber creep K Grainger is now looking for and he will not catch me out again! Won't anyway because I have stopped using Weber Pral.m.
nickelarse
Private Member
im charging the same labour as its the same process. but more in total because the gear costs more. seriously, you must get it now!!
why would you charge less labour to mono?
nickelarse
Private Member
iv been using parex on all my jobs now. find it really nice. u think its better then parex? how does it compare price wise? where do u get it from?
goody
Private Member
I always bead under sills and ping a chalk line and bead soffits. Much nicer detail IMO. Beading the soffits straight like this say on a pine end highlights the shape of the wall allowing you to correct as you spray cos the bead acts as a depth guide also whereas freehand its just 15 mm following the shape of what's there. Also it's much easier to mask a beaded straight soffit than not.
plasterjfe
Private Member
prob not as good as parex imo
but we are talking about the two best products on the market here across the range IMO
you wont go far wrong with these two
so for the customer its more expensive just beacause they dont need to paint it? F*****g expensive paint in my opinion
nickelarse
Private Member
well yeah. thats the whole point of coloured render is it not?
whats your reason for saying "Krend is a superior product to a sand/cement render"? I was gonna start a seperate thread on advantages and disadvantages of both types but couldnt be arsed (if some else fancies doing it that would be sound).
FreeD
Private Member
Its less prone to cracking...im not saying it doesn't crack...but thats a selling point, it doesn't require painting (not for a while anyway) its factory mixed so less likely to be contaminated or wrong quantities during mixing, it has silicone in which makes it highly water resistant and slightly flexible, and it looks mint if done well.
Obviously it has its disadvantages one of the major ones being it can't be repaired easily, discoloraton over time, algae. But the chq has probably well cleared by the time any of these thing occur.
Imo the only advantage of sand/cement is labour/materials are cheaper. The only sand/cement renders I see that seem to stand the test of time are pebble dashed, rough cast..or maybe its just harder to see the cracks
Obviously it has its disadvantages one of the major ones being it can't be repaired easily, discoloraton over time, algae. But the chq has probably well cleared by the time any of these thing occur.
Imo the only advantage of sand/cement is labour/materials are cheaper. The only sand/cement renders I see that seem to stand the test of time are pebble dashed, rough cast..or maybe its just harder to see the cracks
Do you mean just sayin its less prone to cracks means it sounds good when selling it or it is less prone to cracking ie is it a fact?
If you mix sand and cement correctly YOU know its not contaminated, also if you add a waterproofer this will also make it highly water resistant. You can even add lime to make it slightly flexible and it looks mint if done well. Obviously it has its advantages one of the major ones being it can be repaired easily because the colour match doesnt matter, The waste can be used on any job and if your short you can pick it up easily enough. Ive seen plenty of jobs that havent cracked with sand and cement and it has lasted the test of time ive seen a lot of krend that looks shite after a few years and some that has been done wrong or had a few white marks showing through which really show up then again ive seen some nice jobs but they have only been done a short time.
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