ok lads I hope u all had a relaxing Xmas day and don't u worry about the extra weight we can loose that once we get started not like the pen pushers .What it is I've lime rendered this cottage I'm in the wettest place at best time but the last two months the damp started coming in because the lime render can't cope whith such extreme rain.I did suggest to the architect that we should go down the modern way of water proofing because I know of the rain we get at best times but nobody listened to me .like some one said on this site the only thing it breathes is water I think he was rhight . Im going to suggest to the customer that we render the outside whith water proof render .But these heritage people think it not a good idea because the wall will not breath ok point taken.But when I ask them how do u stop damp whith lime render they can't answer me . Does anybody think waterproof render is going to be a big deal on the outside as the heritage people say???
Lime
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It might sound simplistic, but the way you stop damp penetrating with solid walls (stone or brick etc) is to give the water somewhere to go. A surprising amount will evaporate out which is what's meant by the wall breathing, but it there's a drainage point below the wall and running away it will help massively. The most basic form is a gravel bed around the base of the wall, but it's important to make sure that there is a lower point or soak away for the water to go from there.
Obviously soil conditions and the shape of the ground will determine how that's done. You can't base decisions and methods on one aspect like the walls. It will only be successful if you look at the whole building, roof, rainwater drainage, walls, footings, land around the building, soil types etc all play their part.
Obviously soil conditions and the shape of the ground will determine how that's done. You can't base decisions and methods on one aspect like the walls. It will only be successful if you look at the whole building, roof, rainwater drainage, walls, footings, land around the building, soil types etc all play their part.
Yes m8 that the idea but it seems to me it can't evaporate whith this rain we are getting . We are getting a months rain in a a day .And it b like that for 2 months
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Which is why the excess needs to be able to drain away. If the water is able to clear the bottom of the wall when the wall is wet it will move away as that's an easier path than inwards.
You can't base the system on what happens for a couple of months otherwise it won't work properly the rest of the time. If you seal the outside to prevent moisture getting in it will also stop it getting out. So it will only have one direction it can go which is inwards.
You can't base the system on what happens for a couple of months otherwise it won't work properly the rest of the time. If you seal the outside to prevent moisture getting in it will also stop it getting out. So it will only have one direction it can go which is inwards.
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what happens when the ground is saturated and thers no wher for the water to go ??
purchase a dehumidifier to dry out the building, as the rainfall is exceptional.
dig a french drain around the building and fill with pea shingle. dig trenches leading away from the building, fill with pea shingle and cover with a thin layer of soil, to drain excess water away from the property.
conservationists do not like the use of chemical waterproofers, or other unnatural methods. they will say that the building has been trashed.
these are part of the joy of living in the 18th cent.
dig a french drain around the building and fill with pea shingle. dig trenches leading away from the building, fill with pea shingle and cover with a thin layer of soil, to drain excess water away from the property.
conservationists do not like the use of chemical waterproofers, or other unnatural methods. they will say that the building has been trashed.
these are part of the joy of living in the 18th cent.
build a moat?
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Drainage, which is what I mean by somewhere for the water to go after you've taken it away from the wall. No matter what you do you can't fight nature on a large scale. One of the largest fundamentals of nature is the water cycle. The only effective way to deal with it is to divert it around the areas where you don't want it.
I did think of getting a dehumidifier if u think rainfall is exceptional . This cottage is 1o minute from snowdon 3500 feet so u can imagine the rain ther I was thinking of cladding the place so it can still breath
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If it's 3500 feet up then finding somewhere for the water to drain away to shouldn't be too much of a challenge!
We have done a frensh drain on one gable it no good .Thers a mountain behind the cottage it ol coming from ther it in a dip .the volume of water that comes from the mountain it scary some times lol. Uv got to b ther to believe it
i my self think the lime mortar a fuking joke it ok in dryer climate .If it was that good y did people change to sand and cement to stop damp problems
We are all going on about drains .I do agree that u need good drainage but it not going to stop water coming in from chimney and top of a gable that y people have turned to sand and cement to stop damp problems. If lime render was that good y were houses years ago full of damp and fires going 24 seven to dry a house out. They had no choice in the 18th century .But if it a listed building what chance have u got against these people that think lime render is the best thing since sliced
Jgreenplastering
Private Member
Sounds like the conservation do gooders have no idea like usual and are just interested in barking a few orders of no actual importance to the general condition of the building!
They spec for things that they call non destructive but are actually more harmful in the long term.
Sounds like you'll never be able to divert the water away enough to control it properly.
Membranes are actually described as non destructive up to your traditional tanking and rendering method.
Are your damp issues on both levels or just the ground?
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They spec for things that they call non destructive but are actually more harmful in the long term.
Sounds like you'll never be able to divert the water away enough to control it properly.
Membranes are actually described as non destructive up to your traditional tanking and rendering method.
Are your damp issues on both levels or just the ground?
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zolco
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People going on about drainage cos thats a simple and efficient thing to do.
People turned to s&c and waterproofer and upvc doors and windows created more problems in long term.
Nothing wrong with lime, its only h&s boll@cks.
If that house is in a very bad spot as you say, think about extending the eaves to have more overhang so rain less likely to hit the gable wall, and cap/repoint/render the chimney.
Have a look around the continent, in other countries eaves are much bigger to keep water away from the walls. Its only cut short here for whatever stupid reason imo.
People living in old houses have to compromise.
superspread
Well-Known Member
If it's allowed, how about physically reinstalling a new dpc doing 2m in length at a time and installing a membrane over the walls externally like a platon system or equivalent , re render in lime to appease the conservationist
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Both levels it cannot handle this rain we are have experienced in the last month .What I don't get iv worked over the years in stone houses whith sand and cement and most of them are dry like a bone .And these people are goin on about breathable walls at the moment it only berthing water
Extending the eaves by 10ft lol I think the only way to stop the penetration of water is slate clading or timber so the building breaths .or fuk that and waterproof the place
zolco
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If heritage don't agree with s&c are they gonna like the slate or timber cladding? Catch 22 that is.
It not a listed building so the customer can do what best for them.Dont great me wrong m8 I think lime mortar is ok when it in a sheltered spot but when battered whith rain 24 seven and the climate is changing just have a look on the news today .If the ground can't whith stand this rain what chance has a lime mortar chimney or gable end have
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No one changed to S&C as it's waterproof, because it isn't. They changed to S&C because it's harder than lime mortar, and when the bricks began to be fired to a harder finish lime mortaqr was too soft.
If the water is running down to the house from the mountain, divert it round.
You ask the question of people on site and people on here. They all give the same answer, use lime and divert the water, but that's not the answer that you want so you repeat the question. The examples/reasons you give all come back to the same answer.
So either heritage and anyone else answering are all wrong, or .......
Either way, you've had the advice, your job your choice to take it or leave it.
If the water is running down to the house from the mountain, divert it round.
You ask the question of people on site and people on here. They all give the same answer, use lime and divert the water, but that's not the answer that you want so you repeat the question. The examples/reasons you give all come back to the same answer.
So either heritage and anyone else answering are all wrong, or .......
Either way, you've had the advice, your job your choice to take it or leave it.
zolco
Private Member
I might misread something along the lines. I thought heritage was involved in this. If not, you do whatever in reason.
You can't help bad weather unfortunately, it is what it is.
Good luck with it!
Ok m8 I'm grateful for your advice but how is a drain going to stop this tereble weather from coming through chimney and top of a gable end ?it like a sponge this lime
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Deleted member 23452
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It won't stop it coming in, it works by draining it away rather than allowing it to penetrate inwards. Water will flow along the path of least resistance, so if the drainage allows flow away from the walls it goes that way. If the base of the wall is saturated it can't go that way, if the outside face is wet it can't go that way. So it goes towards the dry interior.
It honestly makes a massive difference.
It honestly makes a massive difference.
I'm fuked then il have to tank the place lol
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Deleted member 23452
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From the description you give, land drain (100mm perforated orange pipe) up the slope from the house feeding into one or two that run past the house down the slope. Another deeper one across the lower side of the house feeding away from the house. Depending on the slope and ground type they can go to the surface and away, or a soak away. French drains above the level of those feeding into them all roubd the perimiter wall of the house.
Maybe stuff you can do to the roof to help, but no idea what it looks like.
If you have any pictures of the house that you can post it'll help.
Maybe stuff you can do to the roof to help, but no idea what it looks like.
If you have any pictures of the house that you can post it'll help.
thanks m8 is Thompson water seal breathable to ? I did think of giving that a go when this bad weather settles down
Il post some in a week or so when I'm up ther again m8
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