MAGPLY

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I note the feed on how to deal with Magply ie not bonding with Febond but that is exactly what our plasterer used (although it is debatable whether sufficient information was provided about a product that is relatively new to the market and not recognised by most of the tradesmen we used but that is a different issue). What we need is a solution and I wondered if anyone had repaired cracks/movement (which includes bowing to walls and cracks that run through the coving & ceramic tiles) caused by febond being used on Magply - any advice would be gratefully received.
 
i havent seen the thread but if its cracks at joints.. i e ceiling lines or board joints then this points to movement in structure or insufficent fixings....

feb bond is a bonding agent and can only help adhesion
 
bit late lads just seen this to plaster on Magply you need to prime the board correctly and the primer must be acrylic based to slow the curing time down as MAGPLY is a high suction board. PVA and FEB BOND are not to be used with MAGPLY we manufacturer a grit based primer available direct from us or via your merchant that is tried and tested you can also use a acrylic based primer from tool station etc also paper tape must be used and NOT SCRIM. I am always available my direct number is 07769317309 or john@magply.co.uk
 
magply tech said:
bit late lads just seen this to plaster on Magply you need to prime the board correctly and the primer must be acrylic based to slow the curing time down as MAGPLY is a high suction board. PVA and FEB BOND are not to be used with MAGPLY we manufacturer a grit based primer available direct from us or via your merchant that is tried and tested you can also use a acrylic based primer from tool station etc also paper tape must be used and NOT SCRIM. I am always available my direct number is 07769317309 or john@magply.co.uk
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not scrim or paper tape? so what is used on joints then?
 
Dansouthcoast84 said:
my mistake mate....
im sure everyone has been to reskim an artex ceiling and peeled clean off the paper tapes.

dont think i like the idea of that.
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Yep it may be claimed to be stronger if applied correctly but any moisture problems and its a fail , OK if someone invents dry paint I suppose or the ceiling is sealed both sides but I consider paper a bodge
 
Gents testing coming out of our backsides with paper tape the board is high suction and plastic scrim tape blocks the breatibility on the board by using paper tape the board can still adhere to the back of the finish through the paper tape giving an even adhesion across the plastered area
 
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magply tech said:
Gents testing coming out of our backsides with paper tape the board is high suction and plastic scrim tape blocks the breatibility on the board by using paper tape the board can still adhere to the back of the finish through the paper tape giving an even adhesion across the plastered area
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But there’s holes in scrim for this reason
 
we like holes,but if the manufacturer advises how to do it, its sensible to do it that way?
 
It's not the easiest of systems to use, will take a look at other manufacturers see what they advise.
 
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