Mono help search

Your right I did get the hump just a bit.
Make mine a woo woo.
As said above though, and a million times on this forum, doing a three day course doesn't make me skilled in the art.
 
I did the course which was good but have lost all the notes they give when I left,tbh I have done a few small ones and have and am pricing a few more now,most mine will be mash up re render and would be good to just get advice ,here's one I not sure about weather to just rendaid and fill around battered bricks with the rendaid or mono
Mono help search
Mono help search

Mailed weber 3 times ,no response
 
theplasterman said:
I did the course which was good but have lost all the notes they give when I left,tbh I have done a few small ones and have and am pricing a few more now,most mine will be mash up re render and would be good to just get advice ,here's one I not sure about weather to just rendaid and fill around battered bricks with the rendaid or mono
View attachment 13757 View attachment 13758
Mailed weber 3 times ,no response
Click to expand...
OCR it and rule it flat and rub it up with the diamond float then mono it . Rendaid is for poor key back grounds
 
theplasterman said:
I did the course which was good but have lost all the notes they give when I left,tbh I have done a few small ones and have and am pricing a few more now,most mine will be mash up re render and would be good to just get advice ,here's one I not sure about weather to just rendaid and fill around battered bricks with the rendaid or mono
View attachment 13757 View attachment 13758
Mailed weber 3 times ,no response
Click to expand...

This is why we use Parex. They have a much better range of Base coats for various Applications.
Something like this we'd use Monogris E as a base coat with a full mesh embedment.


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Jgreenplastering said:
This is why we use Parex. They have a much better range of Base coats for various Applications.
Something like this we'd use Monogris E as a base coat with a full mesh embedment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Do you mean because get better or quicker advice from Parex than weber or that the ocr compared to the parex basecoat is better j ?
 
theplasterman said:
Do you mean because get better or quicker advice from Parex than weber or that the ocr compared to the parex basecoat is better j ?
Click to expand...
Imo the support us better from Parex but I don't feel the products as too dissimilar pral, monorex. Ocr paramurex. Do prefer tv10 to any other mesh though. Why don't you get the Parex Rep out to look at the job and give you a spec @theplasterman
 
Arti said:
Imo the support us better from Parex but I don't feel the products as too dissimilar pral, monorex. Ocr paramurex. Do prefer tv10 to any other mesh though. Why don't you get the Parex Rep out to look at the job and give you a spec @theplasterman
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Would they look though as I not done there training on products?
 
Arti said:
Wey aye. Av not done parex training but they want your money so they'll help you. It gives you a chance to ask any questions as well
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Thanks, am I finding out what everyone else knows already then, that for re rendering domestic weber ain't that forth coming on these kinda jobs and Parex are?
 
Arti said:
Imo the support us better from Parex but I don't feel the products as too dissimilar pral, monorex. Ocr paramurex. Do prefer tv10 to any other mesh though. Why don't you get the Parex Rep out to look at the job and give you a spec @theplasterman
Click to expand...


I prefer the GF Monorex but GM and pral ate similar as you say.
I just prefer Parex for Monogris and Parinter above everything else and they support is better.
If Webber had more than Rend aid I'd be happy to use it more.


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theplasterman said:
Would they look though as I not done there training on products?
Click to expand...
Personally Vince If it was Parex I'd brush down and maybe lightly wet then I'd go straight on it with Monogris E as a base coat with mesh embedded all over then 10mm beads dabbed and Monorex at around 13mm scraped back to around 10mm.
So around 15-20mm in total.

Or you could micro then Parmurex then Monorex but I prefer the first.


If Webber they'd spec rend aid stipple coat then OCR as a base coat topped with Pral.
Not sure if they'd spec mesh in the base or the top coat but I'd put in base then the stress points as I don't like meshing in the final coat especially on renovations where walls can be wonky even with a decent base coat.





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theplasterman said:
I did the course which was good but have lost all the notes they give when I left,tbh I have done a few small ones and have and am pricing a few more now,most mine will be mash up re render and would be good to just get advice ,here's one I not sure about weather to just rendaid and fill around battered bricks with the rendaid or mono
View attachment 13757 View attachment 13758
Mailed weber 3 times ,no response
Click to expand...
I would micro primer then mono full mesh
 
Jgreenplastering said:
This is why we use Parex. They have a much better range of Base coats for various Applications.
Something like this we'd use Monogris E as a base coat with a full mesh embedment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
J does the everbuild sealer you,owls n arti was on about stop this staining?
Mono help search
 
Mono is an open matrix hence why you see so many jobs with staining from various sources, your best to future proof it i.e. By using decent screws for Down pipes etc or cleaning any mound off copings, if you seal it, it might not stop marks appearing over time but its just wiped off. I always seal any copings too at the same time. Water bubbles up like a lotus leaf and runs down the surface rather than being absorbed so avoids any ghosting too.my biggest bug bear is brick dust and the like once we've rendered and they hammer drill there fixings through it and leaves tinges of red dust on the render if it's sealed it just hoses off.
 
owls said:
Mono is an open matrix hence why you see so many jobs with staining from various sources, your best to future proof it i.e. By using decent screws for Down pipes etc or cleaning any mound off copings, if you seal it, it might not stop marks appearing over time but its just wiped off. I always seal any copings too at the same time. Water bubbles up like a lotus leaf and runs down the surface rather than being absorbed so avoids any ghosting too.my biggest bug bear is brick dust and the like once we've rendered and they hammer drill there fixings through it and leaves tinges of red dust on the render if it's sealed it just hoses off.
Click to expand...
Nice advice there [emoji106]

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