the two holes you can see are where he had his plumb line..
I've since filled those two, but there's quite a few smaller ones.
The pitch roof is dry underneath, I've had tiles off. It's also well sealed under the bedroom window.
Pretty sure it mortar on blocks.
I'll try to video the leak I've seen inside the cavity.
That rules those out.
Can you get a picture up of the side elevation above the beams?
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I've seen similar to this but years ago - when the brickwork was done the insulation they put in the cavity was soaked, it stayed like that for weeksMany Thanks for that.
Yes trays have been fitted, though I'm now thinking have they been done correctly above the steel that's carrying the side return wall for the bathroom.
That rules those out.
Can you get a picture up of the side elevation above the beams?
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Yes the roof joist overhang enough, was hits the gutter fine from both roofs.Is the roof line overhanging enough for the water to flow into the gutters and not in behind thus the water gets into the cavity?
Tricky to see anything in those pics TBH as it's a dark.
When you had the hose on did you spray in an upwards angle along the roof or just directly onto the wall and when it ran down was when it was getting in somehow?
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Yes the roof joist overhang enough, was hits the gutter fine from both roofs.
I've tried a few different angles of spaying, mainly upwards so it runs down the roof/brick
As it would naturally by rain fall.
The bricks underneath both soffits are pretty dry.
Best get some one local to look then. Would be much better seeing in person so you can do some thorough investigating.
I wouldn't of thought you'd get enough moisture through the blockwork or joint to create running water leaks.
May be wrong though.
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No me neither
I've had a roofer check it out 4/5 times
So far found nothing on the roofs.
Felt is Pretty dry underneath tiles.
I will try to video the water coming into the cavity above the steel tomorrow and post it on here.
Cheers
Yeah, well said, something obviously seriously amiss on that job. someone needs to go round and have a look for this person! the cavity is there for a reason so water should not be getting into property whether joints were not filled properly or not, more alarmingly ( if that's a word) the amount of s**t advice given at start of this thread. render should not be the last barrier for house, it should be the first!! little knowledge is dangerous (found that out a long time ago, lol.)Best get some one local to look then. Would be much better seeing in person so you can do some thorough investigating.
I wouldn't of thought you'd get enough moisture through the blockwork or joint to create running water leaks.
May be wrong though.
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Where are you mate? maybe someone local to you?No me neither
I've had a roofer check it out 4/5 times
So far found nothing on the roofs.
Felt is Pretty dry underneath tiles.
I will try to video the water coming into the cavity above the steel tomorrow and post it on here.
Cheers
Where are you mate? maybe someone local to you?
Have you checked for any pipes in that vicinity that could be leaking? It wouldn't be a mains feed as the leak would be constant.
It may be a waste pipe for a basin, bath etc?
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I'm in the north eastWhere are you mate? maybe someone local to you?
Only leaks when it's heavy rain though matey.
Waste pipes in the bathroom but exit to the left
And ceiling is dry that side.
I know what your saying, really don't want to cut ceilings away unless I 100% need to.I'd open up the ceiling beneath the beams, then get someone to hose the wall down in daylight starting from one side and move along every 30 seconds or so. Start at the bottom and work up, you'll detect leaks easier this way and look for where it comes in.
The blocks and mortar won't allow running water to get through unless there are holes in the joints.
If there are I'd trowel on and stipple a thin coat of rend aid as mentioned before to get you through the winter.
Be warned though it's not the gear a diyer would be best using if they've no previous experience.
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I know what your saying, really don't want to cut ceilings away unless I 100% need to.
I have knocked a brick out above the steel on the side return and seen water pixxing through a mortar joint.
what do I need to know about rendaid.?
https://www.netweber.co.uk/renders-decorative-finishes/products/stipple-coats/weberrend-aid.htmlI know what your saying, really don't want to cut ceilings away unless I 100% need to.
I have knocked a brick out above the steel on the side return and seen water pixxing through a mortar joint.
what do I need to know about rendaid.?
Non rendered blockwork
&them lead flashings as they are ! will bring you headaches ...
You would usually have
Stepped dpc trays installed where roof abuts main extension
Minimum pitch on lean too roof would be 17 degrees with a plain concrete tile .. looks low ! Pitch ..
Lead soakers to roof tiles & Cut a chase in cap flashing
Then render bead down to chased in lead
ect
Good luck getting it sorted
Non rendered blockwork
&them lead flashings as they are ! will bring you headaches ...
You would usually have
Stepped dpc trays installed where roof abuts main extension
Minimum pitch on lean too roof would be 17 degrees with a plain concrete tile .. looks low ! Pitch ..
Lead soakers to roof tiles & Cut a chase in cap flashing
Then render bead down to chased in lead
ect
Good luck getting it sorted
ive just Hosed the one wallLook at the bigger picture. If your going to render your own house you should be able to repair the ceiling with no hassle!
If that helps you find the cause quicker then it's a no brainer, if it doesn't it's a bit of patching.
Rend aid is like laying on neat pva glue. Great gear but not the nicest to trowel on.
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What's all that expanding foam about?also bricks/mortar are wet behind lead, flashing is water tight
ive just Hosed the one wall
Attached pics inc one inside the cavity, from the side return above the lower pitch roof..
thoughts.?
What's all that expanding foam about?