Olde Worlde plastering or Textured Finish

satan

satan

Active Member
Hi I have a shed which I have boarded out and was going to finish the boards in an olde worlde or textured finish.

I would never attempt to get it flat by skimming as this I regard as a highly skilled job.

I was looking on youtube at how to do the textured finish and the Americans are really into it calling it a Spanish finish amongst others. They all use the filler/joint plaster for doing this which is at least twice as expensive as skim coat.

So my question is.......can you use skim coat for this type of finish?

Here is an example .......
 
satan said:
Hi I have a shed which I have boarded out and was going to finish the boards in an olde worlde or textured finish.

I would never attempt to get it flat by skimming as this I regard as a highly skilled job.

I was looking on youtube at how to do the textured finish and the Americans are really into it calling it a Spanish finish amongst others. They all use the filler/joint plaster for doing this which is at least twice as expensive as skim coat.

So my question is.......can you use skim coat for this type of finish?

Here is an example .......
Click to expand...

I don’t see any reason why not.
 
Nearly all. Possibly every video on the subject is American and they say use jointing/filler. Nobody says use skim.

Ok no problem but in another video it explains what is the difference between the different plasters and skim drys rock hard and is basically waterproof but joint/filler compound contains clay and absorbs moisture so if it gets wet then it all becomes soft again.

My concern is that ......what happens when you paint it? Does it all become a big sponge and takes ages to dry or flattens etc?
 
We’ve recently done something similar to what you are talking about. Just done some outside shower block for a scout camp and used bonding coat with gauging trowel then painted straight onto the bonding . Looks good if your after an old English look with a textured finish
 
satan said:
Nearly all. Possibly every video on the subject is American and they say use jointing/filler. Nobody says use skim.

Ok no problem but in another video it explains what is the difference between the different plasters and skim drys rock hard and is basically waterproof but joint/filler compound contains clay and absorbs moisture so if it gets wet then it all becomes soft again.

My concern is that ......what happens when you paint it? Does it all become a big sponge and takes ages to dry or flattens etc?
Click to expand...
I’ve worked with guys who used diamond veneer plaster for both a smooth finish and also the finish you are referring to.I’d say it’s achievable with multi finish or skim coat with some extra time in it.Your basically finishing it as you go along.Try a small area and see how you get on.
 
Thanks. I couldn't understand why you could not use other plasters. I suppose the next argument is what is best? I will just have a practice as suggested.
 
In a shed where dust may be an issue I would be looking for a smooth finish so it wont be a dust trap :D

I would skim it and if it looks shite just get the sander out and paint it :D

by the wya I have just boarded and skimmed my shed :D
 
No Danny I have converted shed into a studio so no dust..........and I am NOT sanding plaster!
 
satan said:
Nearly all. Possibly every video on the subject is American and they say use jointing/filler. Nobody says use skim.

Ok no problem but in another video it explains what is the difference between the different plasters and skim drys rock hard and is basically waterproof but joint/filler compound contains clay and absorbs moisture so if it gets wet then it all becomes soft again.

My concern is that ......what happens when you paint it? Does it all become a big sponge and takes ages to dry or flattens etc?
Click to expand...
Plaster is most definitely not "basically waterproof", not even close.
If you really want to achieve this short of finish why don't you use the most obvious product, Artex? It's what it's made for.
 
Cost. The most expensive of all options. And I always thought Artex was something a decorator or amateur would use.
 
Artexing was a trade in its own right.
It might be expensive but I was just telling you the best material for texture work.
Personally I agree with Danny, just skim it as best you can, then fill and paint it.
 
Point taken but I would have imagined that skimming plaster would be the most highly skilled process of any and also time consuming being as it is multi-process over hours. That is why I chose to do this quick finish.

I could have just sanded and painted the boards but it is a large area to do of approx 60 x 8'x4' boards.
 
Artex is you’re best option to get a decent textured finish. It may cost more per bag but it goes a lot further than plaster. Also if you mess it up then @lurpak will come and skim it flat for you! (y):LOL:
 
satan said:
Hi I have a shed which I have boarded out and was going to finish the boards in an olde worlde or textured finish.

I would never attempt to get it flat by skimming as this I regard as a highly skilled job.

I was looking on youtube at how to do the textured finish and the Americans are really into it calling it a Spanish finish amongst others. They all use the filler/joint plaster for doing this which is at least twice as expensive as skim coat.

So my question is.......can you use skim coat for this type of finish?

Here is an example .......
Click to expand...


If you want a textured finish using skimcoat, then just give @Andy g a shout. He always leaves one.
 
Why is that Vincy? Is it because its just one coat with Artex?......serious question.
 
Last edited:
satan said:
Why is that Vincy? Is it because its just one coat with Artex?......serious question.
Click to expand...
Gyproc make artex bags 25kg does between 25-40 m2 per bag depending on pattern used I work for a few companies doing artex repairs it’s quite bespoke work now tbh, as andy said for the finish you want it’s ideal and a lot better to use than skim coat
 
Artex with a broken leather finish , Mix Atrex a bit thicker than normal so it can be applied with a trowel, Then use a plastic float with a plastic carrier bag over it. then just drag the float over the surface to get the desired result. You are welcome.:descansando:
 
beader said:
Artex with a broken leather finish , Mix Atrex a bit thicker than normal so it can be applied with a trowel, Then use a plastic float with a plastic carrier bag over it. then just drag the float over the surface to get the desired result. You are welcome.:descansando:
Click to expand...
Could do the same with multi, mix it wet and plonk it on with a brush, bag it about a bit and .......tadah!
 
What is multi-mix .... multi finish?

I always thought plasterers would do Artex finishes out of plaster and Artex was just for shall we say 'not so skilled' people.

Anyway so basically you can use anything that sticks to the board.
 
Multi comma “mix it wet”.......
I’m awfully sorry but I have no further information for you.
Save to say, give it a go however you like, with whatever you want. Pay attention to the advice given here, and good luck.
 
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