Parex Paramurex 2 coat.

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Jgreenplastering

Jgreenplastering

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Hi All.

I've started to use Parex after being a Weber spreader for years.

I much prefer the product and general range of render available especially as I do domestic so there is more choice.

Now I have a job to spec and price up which the client wants a Tyrolean finish.


Old render is old and battered so will be coming off.

Usually I'd base coat and mesh then apply top and finish.

I've seen Parex do Microgobetis.

This will save on base coat costs but what I want to know is does anyone apply the paramurex as scratch with mesh on the micro allow to set and then a further coat of paramurex or what methods are used?

I'm guessing the bricks are pretty bad so that's why I wanted to put a scratch on first with mesh and allow to cure for a few days so the top coat will go off a bit quicker while being less heavy in depth and reduce cracking.

I know a lot of people mesh in the first pass and then second pass but as this is older work I'm worried there may be slumping and it will take longer to set.

Any thoughts or other methods are welcome.

If it's better I'll just stick to base coat with mesh to build out the depth and then paramurex as one pass to get me to 15mm total average thickness before Tyrolean.

Just wanted to give the micro a go as haven't used it yet.

Cheers
 
Done this a few times, Parmurex can be meshed and topped in the day.It doesnt slump and can be put on at a decent thickness
 
Andy M said:
Done this a few times, Parmurex can be meshed and topped in the day.It doesnt slump and can be put on at a decent thickness
Click to expand...

Thanks Andy

If the bricks are quite bad and faces missing will I stil be able to do this in the day?
That's why i ask as I'd rather scratch if say I need to build it an extra 10 mm I'm worried it will slump or crack when curing and I've got no leg to stand on as I've put it on 'to thick' in one go?
 
Give it 2 passes, first with mesh , scratch and let it pick up for an hour or so then bang your second coat.
Its good gear and easy to work, are you spraying it? If you have used Ocr, its pretty much the same and weve not had any problems with shrinkage cracks.
 
Andy M said:
Give it 2 passes, first with mesh , scratch and let it pick up for an hour or so then bang your second coat.
Its good gear and easy to work, are you spraying it? If you have used Ocr, its pretty much the same and weve not had any problems with shrinkage cracks.
Click to expand...

We're hand ballers at the mo, looking at getting one next year if it's as busy render wise this year!
Obviously it's a longer process hand balling so can that method still be done same day and finished before dark?
Next spring I'll be doing it.
2 x 40m2 panels.
 
All depends on your speed ,80 m is a fair chunk to hand apply in the day so you may want to run it over 2.
 
You have to bear in mind your setting time. If you are going over Micro then there will be zero suction.

If by the time you have first passed and meshed it might be too late to second pass and get finished before dark so first pass, mesh, tight second pass thick enough to scratch. Leave to set then apply your top coat with some accelerator in it.
 
Jgreenplastering said:
We're hand ballers at the mo, looking at getting one next year if it's as busy render wise this year!
Obviously it's a longer process hand balling so can that method still be done same day and finished before dark?
Next spring I'll be doing it.
2 x 40m2 panels.
Click to expand...
I doubt it.
A machine is worth 2 men I reckon.
Try getting a man in for the day with a machine to spray for you.just pay him to spray
 
If your base coating anyway i would just add lankolatex to the first coat of parmurex and knock the micro on the head. No point doing both to achieve the same result.

Otherwise micro and get your parmurex on in one go
 
Andy M said:
All depends on your speed ,80 m is a fair chunk to hand apply in the day so you may want to run it over 2.
Click to expand...

I could only dream of hand balling 80 in day.......actually that would kill me so it's more like a nightmare.
Work clever not hard that's my motto.
 
plasterjfe said:
If your base coating anyway i would just add lankolatex to the first coat of parmurex and knock the micro on the head. No point doing both to achieve the same result.

Otherwise micro and get your parmurex on in one go
Click to expand...

John has a good point there! I used Parmurex Monday with sbr in it and its well creamy but sticky as well. At least it will save you the micro time and waiting for it to dry.
 
plasterjfe said:
If your base coating anyway i would just add lankolatex to the first coat of parmurex and knock the micro on the head. No point doing both to achieve the same result.

Otherwise micro and get your parmurex on in one go
Click to expand...

Ok so that will stick nicely because of the lanko in the base coat.
Will I be able to mesh in this coat or will it set to quick?

It worth wetting the bricks first aswell?

Thanks for advise.
 
Rigsby said:
Not with sbr in the water, well bugger the water works up. Either micro or monogris e.
Click to expand...
True john.although if sbr was to be added to the basecoat this could be premixed with a belle mix/drill then put into the ritmo like a Eze would be used as a pump.a bit long winded but it would work
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Ok so that will stick nicely because of the lanko in the base coat.
Will I be able to mesh in this coat or will it set to quick?

It worth wetting the bricks first aswell?

Thanks for advise.
Click to expand...

The lanko will modify the base and yes it will have higher bond and base will also equal out your background so no need for micro

Micro would be ideal if you were spraying then you could hit your base in one with no latex but if hand app there is no need for micro ever really
 
plasterjfe said:
The lanko will modify the base and yes it will have higher bond and base will also equal out your background so no need for micro

Micro would be ideal if you were spraying then you could hit your base in one with no latex but if hand app there is no need for micro ever really
Click to expand...


Is putting the lanko with the paramurex basically the equivalent of a bag of monogris E then?
Using the lanko does this still work out cheaper than the monogris with a thin paramurex top coat?
 
I've put Weber OCR on bad brickwork with mesh embedded on micro, scratched then topped the next day with OCR...hand applied.

All went fine but the top coat pulls in fast even after dampening down the scratch.
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Is putting the lanko with the paramurex basically the equivalent of a bag of monogris E then?
Using the lanko does this still work out cheaper than the monogris with a thin paramurex top coat?
Click to expand...

Parmirex can be used much thicker than monogris.

Its just easy to do less tasks and use less products than having bags of this buckets of that when parmurex with some latex does the whole job.

They just re inventing the wheel with these renders. The principles are just the same as 100 years ago. Nothing Scientific

Different prep for different backgrounds same as it ever was.
 
plasterjfe said:
Parmirex can be used much thicker than monogris.

Its just easy to do less tasks and use less products than having bags of this buckets of that when parmurex with some latex does the whole job.

They just re inventing the wheel with these renders. The principles are just the same as 100 years ago. Nothing Scientific

Different prep for different backgrounds same as it ever was.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice mate. [emoji106][emoji106] much appreciated
 
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