Parex Render

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blackbirdxx

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Hi,

I have a damp walls problem in my 1880’s solid brick semi. The upstairs south facing walls have been rendered in the past with roughcast sand and cement which although appears solid is trapping water and leaving damp patches on the inside destroying the decor. I have considered a breathable render such as K-Rend but now have received a price from a company called Rendercraft in Essex with a proposal to use a mineral render system made by Parex. They propose the use of a full mesh and coloured plastic UV resistant beads to all windows, building corners and stops.
My questions are:
· Is this a suitable render product to replace the existing S&C to use in my situation with a damp problem?
· Is mesh always used or is it very dependant on the condition of existing brickwork?
· Is an estimate for £5800 a reasonable price for this job (appx 60sq m of render removal, 60 sq m new Parex render and scaffold – no access probs) ?
· Can anyone recommend this company: https://www.rendercraft.co.uk

Thanks in advance,

 
So is that 120m in all 60m removal and then 120m install ?

First of all are you diagnosing the damp correctly? Solid walls are well known to draw condensating damp. Rendered or not.in fact they are often best left not rendered at all unless you choose Ewi insulated render that will eliminate condensation damp. Solid render will not.

If the damp is genuinely penetrating damp from trapped water behind failed render then a straight swap should fix it and Parex mono will expelled moisture very well.

If you want my advice I would get a damp expert to diagnose. Not a surveyor who does not know what he is talking g about, most of them just try to justify their fee.

Condensation damp appears in random patches and spots all over the wall here and there sometimes with black spots.

Penetration is almost always a solid wave of damp that you can see often with a tide mark edge. The edge sometimes has salty deposits or fluffy looking deposits.

Post some pics.

Insulation render will cost you way more though remember that.
 
Thanks for the speedy reply. I have been told by 2 'experts' that the problem is penetrating damp as opposed to condensation but I may well seek the advice of expert.
That said and assuming the problem is penetration damp, how long should I wait for the brickwork to dry out once I have removed the sand/cement render before applying the new stuff.
 
Thanks for the speedy reply. I have been told by 2 'experts' that the problem is penetrating damp as opposed to condensation but I may well seek the advice of expert.
That said and assuming the problem is penetration damp, how long should I wait for the brickwork to dry out once I have removed the sand/cement render before applying the new stuff.
In answer to your Q, the total area to be rendered is 60 sqm
 
I was told once by a so called Expert that penetrating damp had been allowed into the building then was trapped by the strong mix of render that was applied.

upon inspection i found a very breathable render of a weak strength that is well known to expell moisture. on the inside I found condensation everywhere not just on the walls. ever since I have a trust issue with these surveyors.

anyway. The walls should dry out if the problem is trapped ingressing water through the render. strip it back and leave it for a few weeks and you should see it dry up.

as mentioned before if this is penetrting then a good re fit will see you right. monocouche is mineral render, although cementious it is very breathable and will do a job at the correct thickness (15mm finished)
 
so to hack off existing roughcast and remove/skips including scaffold etc then re apply with new coloured render fully meshed ?
seems OK to me but I cant comment on exact prices in your location as there will be a slight difference regionally.

mesh is good practice and not having it would not reduce the cost a great deal.
 
Thanks guys,
I've uploaded some pics of the interior damp hoping that somebody can identify whether the problem is penetrating damp or condensation. Hope you can see the damage, the damp has lifted the paint off the wall in some areas and there are black spots in others. See what you think...

dulciepreston's Library | Photobucket
 
Hi,
Having looked at the pics are you saying that the damage is likely caused by penetrating damp rather than condensation? Also, should I be plastering internally with normal plaster or S&C?
thanks
 
Looks like the majority IMO is clearly penetrating damp there. Possible a tiny bit of condensation in the corner but looking at pics..... The excess of moisture from your penetrating damp would re circulate and add to any condensation.

Solid wall homes that are heated and ventilated usually go without the condensation Causing effect. So your probably good to go on the basis of what rendercraft are proposing.
 
Hi,
Having looked at the pics are you saying that the damage is likely caused by penetrating damp rather than condensation? Also, should I be plastering internally with normal plaster or S&C?
thanks

I would say that it was penetrating and it looks like salt deposits in some places. I would think with the age of the house it would be lime internally so i wouldnt recommend using S&C as a replacement.( I dont use S&C when i do damp proofing anyway, i use a renovating plaster which is a much better product)

Sounds like your sorted externaly if your gonna hack off and re-render, But it would do you know harm to get a damp survey done as most companies do them for free. Just find one with a good reputation, word of mouth is usually a better option for finding a good company
 
There's a picture on the Rendercraft website under preparation of them meshing, they are doing it off ladders? and applying the basecoat over the mesh without bedding it in first?
 
Talk the market up in public Albert not down.....for the greater good of us all.

I agree we need to push are rates up, but I disagree with daylight robbery which that price is. I also don't have the attitude that "if you can get away with charging it". Charge what the job is worth is all I'm saying, you see so many of these programmes where guys are ripping off OAP because they can.
 
I agree we need to push are rates up, but I disagree with daylight robbery which that price is. I also don't have the attitude that "if you can get away with charging it". Charge what the job is worth is all I'm saying, you see so many of these programmes where guys are ripping off OAP because they can.

Yeah fair comment bacon... I don't know what the rates are down there tho I expect a fair bit more than where I am so u have to allow for that.

I hear some areas int south getting a third more than what I charge.....
 
Hi blackbird
please get in touch with the parex rep Matt lee he will put you on the right track and recommend a approved applactor in your area ,I think I right in saying that if your house was built pre 1940 you will need to use a lime based render ,which they do ,just be careful who you use if you don't want the problem to return ,in box me for the reps number don't really want to post it up.good luck
And yes the above mentioned company do render everything off ladders ummmmm!
 
Bacon there is no way you can comment on this price without having any idea of what the job entails or what the overheads of the company are that are carrying out the work.

The person asked for an opinion weather it was a fair price so I can comment thank you, and by going on what they have said what work is involved I'm basing that on the going rate it that area which I know.
 
The person asked for an opinion weather it was a fair price so I can comment thank you, and by going on what they have said what work is involved I'm basing that on the going rate it that area which I know.

Well you might as well contact the op then and put a price in without even seeing it at your rates.
 
Hi,
I've added a pic in the link below showing the 6nr upstairs walls of my house which require rendering. Each wall requires the removal of the roughcast render and the application of a magnolia coloured breathable render (Parex or similar). All the walls are upstairs (appx 63m in total deducting the window openings). House is in Croydon, Surrey. Grateful to discuss with anyone who may be interested in pricing this work. I can be contacted on: [email protected]

Many thanks in advance
dulciepreston's Library | Photobucket
 
OK so that is 63m with the windows out....
First off you wanna put them windows back in assuming you want beads and reveals rendered?

Taking windows out never works mate I can assure you render craft have put them back in. It is much easier and quicker to render a wall with no openings. In reality you could and should be paying more due to the openings regardless of what theiving quantity surveyors might think.

Not exactly a straight forward 60m replacement is it. Pikes.and rakes a plenty. I bet the scaff is about a grand there.

Protection and sheeting needs to be substantial too.

How thick is the existing render
 
wants measuring through as john said, none of this minusing windows etc.
your scaff will be over a 1000, a skip couple of hundred , as said you want parex moyen and clair on that, bagged lime render. there looks more than 60metres there them gables look pushing 30 each. beads etc your materials are going to be pushing 2 grand. so your over 3 grand already then to to knock it all off aswell plus a day fixing downpipes etc back. 5800 quid is more than reasonable
 
Blackbird, do yourself a favour and contact Matt Lee from Parex before you make a decision!, as said before he will point you in the right direction when it comes to recommend applicators.
 
Thank you Owls for confirming that you think the estimate to be reasonable for this work. I do believe, however, based on your sizing of the gables, that you are considering the full height walls that require work. Its the upstairs walls only that require re-rendering which is a measured area of 71m2 (including the window openings). Will this change your assessment of the estimate by much? thanking you all....
 
I think @owls knows it the upper areas. I too think from the image there could be more.

How have you measured it ? Did you have access to upper wall and pikes ?
 
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