Patio

All paths, patios surfaces should be min 6" lower than internal floor level. If you want it up to sill level then set aco grid top channels along face of house to run off to drain or lower level path flowing away from house.
Obviously slight fall away from house when slabbing too.
 
Smudger1 said:
All paths, patios surfaces should be min 6" lower than internal floor level. If you want it up to sill level then set aco grid top channels along face of house to run off to drain or lower level path flowing away from house.
Obviously slight fall away from house when slabbing too.
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We always ran dpc/visqueen between house and any structure, then just came up to the house. Pretty much like a conservatory base and sloped back from that. Channel won't stop anything rising through the base.
 
Stevieo said:
We always ran dpc/visqueen between house and any structure, then just came up to the house. Pretty much like a conservatory base and sloped back from that. Channel won't stop anything rising through the base.
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So anyway about these gutters Steve..........
 
Stevieo said:
We always ran dpc/visqueen between house and any structure, then just came up to the house. Pretty much like a conservatory base and sloped back from that. Channel won't stop anything rising through the base.
Click to expand...

With a conservatory because it becomes internal then the dpm in the slab will take the slab against the interests wall. A patio is open to the elements so if the acos are set against the wall lower than patio surface set in compo with waterproofer blinded tight no air pockets then the rain will run away from top quickly and moisture will have tougher job rising through compo and aco drains. If that worried bed them on chipping running to a weep hole but a bit overkill that. Good slab pointing will help too.
 
Smudger1 said:
With a conservatory because it becomes internal then the dpm in the slab will take the slab against the interests wall. A patio is open to the elements so if the acos are set against the wall lower than patio surface set in compo with waterproofer blinded tight no air pockets then the rain will run away from top quickly and moisture will have tougher job rising through compo and aco drains. If that worried bed them on chipping running to a weep hole but a bit overkill that. Good slab pointing will help too.
Click to expand...

With that job, y'see, I'd screed the top with concrete and then slab onto cement. Shouldn't be anything getting down through that. Seems like any other way is going to give you mither where sand and block meet.
 
Stevieo said:
With that job, y'see, I'd screed the top with concrete and then slab onto cement. Shouldn't be anything getting down through that. Seems like any other way is going to give you mither where sand and block meet.
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That would work but added expense laying a slab on it, I just whack the type 1 tight as possible and flat, then fully bed slab on compo to fall.
 
Smudger1 said:
That would work but added expense laying a slab on it, I just whack the type 1 tight as possible and flat, then fully bed slab on compo to fall.
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Just because it seems the easiest way to give yourself a nice flat base to start off with is all, really.
 
Patio
Patio
Some before and after pics. Some work goes into them patios, was wishing I’d listened to @Vincey and decked it while I was working on it but think it’s worth it now. Taking a few weeks off then starting rest of garden.
 
Smudger1 said:
Block on flat be best, measure down from sill, thickness of bedded slabs and blocks so bottom course of block is few inches below ground level then min 6" concrete down to bottom of footing.
Fill up hard core whacked tight in 6" layers and top with whacked type 1 hard core to dust. And slab away with 1.5" overhang on blocks.
Click to expand...
As above
 
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