pics of damp

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henry

henry

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pics of damppics of damp

Couple of pics of a wall is it damp or not if it's not riseing damp what cause it .
 

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pics of damppics of damp

I've got something similar I think that I've got coming up.

It's happening on 3 internal walls, the externals been chemically treated years ago and that's fine.

They told me that they didn't have any d*mp problems with the old wooden floor that was there. It was only when the floor had been concreted that they had problems, which means the DPC has been bridged by the floor.
 

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looks ok to me all it needs is some varnish on it and some flowers chucked at side of it, did you submit a couple of drawings before you took the work on?
 
pics of damp
Well it's a party wall terrace house solid 9" wall both breast have been removed . The problem of spoiling plaster is due to were the breast have been remove. It has sometime in the past had a injection but not worked for what ever reasons.
I am going to remove the section of brick work were each breast has been and insert dpc strip to this area. Here is a pic of heavy soot which the T***s renderd over it is just boxed in this area.
 
interesting that you're going to insert a dpc rather than use cream. Is it easy to stick a dpc strip in?
 
If it was me i would render with a washed plastering sand with water proofer in it ,i know someone will say lime ,but thats my thoughts on it
 
henry said:
View attachment 927
Well it's a party wall terrace house solid 9" wall both breast have been removed . The problem of spoiling plaster is due to were the breast have been remove. It has sometime in the past had a injection but not worked for what ever reasons.
I am going to remove the section of brick work were each breast has been and insert dpc strip to this area. Here is a pic of heavy soot which the T***s renderd over it is just boxed in this area.
Click to expand...
I worked for a damp coursing firm years ago and the blokes who used to do the chemical injection never did it properly ,instead of injecting the bricks until saturated they would just give the drilled holes a quick splash with the fluid. i am sure lots of firms used to do this and may explain why a lot of damp courses fail.
 
The thing is twitcher this row of bricks is fecked cut out plastic strip blue bricks job sorted. If I tank the wall then all of the render will have to come off then I could tank the wall. I intend to use renderlit backing plaster I know this gear is good alows the wall to dry out. unlike a strong s+c backing coat trapping the moisture still in the brickwork.
 
its a good idea to put the manual dpc in pal but i would recomend using a membrane on the wall for replastering to cover your back so the salts and soot dont bleeding through! you could eml it, render it with addi,s and skim it and still have problems, nothing will come through a tanking membrane !
 
henry said:
The thing is twitcher this row of bricks is fecked cut out plastic strip blue bricks job sorted. If I tank the wall then all of the render will have to come off then I could tank the wall. I intend to use renderlit backing plaster I know this gear is good alows the wall to dry out. unlike a strong s+c backing coat trapping the moisture still in the brickwork.
Click to expand...


Thing is Henry, and I know you are aware of this, if you put in a new physical plastic Dpc you will have to put it in as far as you can. Ie up tp the next door neighbours plaster (225 or whatever) because if you subscribe to the theory of rising damp it will rise on your neighbours side of the wall and back into your customers side ( which is obviously bollixlol) if you don't.

Prob is likely to do with salts, soot etc in old chimney breast wall
 
irish_spread said:
Thing is Henry, and I know you are aware of this, if you put in a new physical plastic Dpc you will have to put it in as far as you can. Ie up tp the next door neighbours plaster (225 or whatever) because if you subscribe to the theory of rising damp it will rise on your neighbours side of the wall and back into your customers side ( which is obviously bollixlol) if you don't.

Prob is likely to do with salts, soot etc in old chimney breast wall
Click to expand...

I conker with irish about soot and salt deposits from the old chimney breast
 
it,s like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut ,why not just render it like any damp company would recommend ,they are not all s**t ,well not the ones i,ve done work for over the last 25 years
 
you play conkers with irish?? neutralise the salts as you said tank and renovation backing skim finish, theres many different ways to skin a cat its just finding the right one for said situation, but im not as clued up on the whole damp situation as the likes of irish, i merely sub off of a contractor, who subs off a damp firm and i follow the spec
 
The thing is eddie next door is rented and the landlord knows his property is damp but will not put his hand in his pocket. So
am pretty much limted to what I can do , at best I can make sure my side can let this trapped moisture a way out from the
brick wall and because the brickwork is shagged in the breast section better just to renew. What Iam seeing more is when chopping out the render is just coming off in sheets I can only put this down pressure of salts blowing the render from the wall itself.
 
Ideally i'd like to take the floor out that bridges the dpc on the internal wall, but I don't think that's gonna happen.

So I'm weighing up whether to use cream or not. Never used cream before, can you just inject it on the first mortar line of bricks? Then I'd be alright dri-coating it or s & c?
 
twitcher said:
View attachment 925View attachment 926

I've got something similar I think that I've got coming up.

It's happening on 3 internal walls, the externals been chemically treated years ago and that's fine.

They told me that they didn't have any d*mp problems with the old wooden floor that was there. It was only when the floor had been concreted that they had problems, which means the DPC has been bridged by the floor.
Click to expand...

I had a similar prob years ago. What you could do is kango out the concrete about 8" from the affected walls and install an "L" shaped piece of membrane which will extend below the relatively new concrete and up the wall to above FFL. Then pour in new concrete. Dpc no longer bridged
 
yeah put the cream in the lowest mortar bed! i use it all the time and its good stuff! i only use s and c but thats down to cost and availability.
 
Henry
1. Does the neighbour have a chimney breast to the other sides of the defective areas shown in your pics.?
2.Solid floor or timber Floor. Neighbours floor same height?
3. Length of affected walls, like 5 metres or or less?
 
Steve
neighbours house I am told is very damp and rented both breast are still in, do not know if they still full on the sides with infill
from when old coal fire was used. Not sure about floor level. The one am working on is solid floor put in sometime in the past.
The effected area seems to stem from bottom course of bricks were the breast was. The salt is showing in this area about 2' up the wall in this area.
 
jrplastering said:
you play conkers with irish?? neutralise the salts as you said tank and renovation backing skim finish, theres many different ways to skin a cat its just finding the right one for said situation, but im not as clued up on the whole damp situation as the likes of irish, i merely sub off of a contractor, who subs off a damp firm and i follow the spec
Click to expand...

Lol, Have u not played irish conkers before JR?? and i bet you cant tell me more than 2 ways to skin a cat.......:flapper:
 
henry said:
Steve
neighbours house I am told is very damp and rented both breast are still in, do not know if they still full on the sides with infill
from when old coal fire was used. Not sure about floor level. The one am working on is solid floor put in sometime in the past.
The effected area seems to stem from bottom course of bricks were the breast was. The salt is showing in this area about 2' up the wall in this area.
Click to expand...

Tank it from floor to ceiling
 
use a knife to peel the skin off or use a power plane and plane all the skin off............or just feed it dynamite wait for it to blow up and pick up the skin after..............there you go 3 ways:flapper:
 
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