Plaster depth gauge beads

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jborg

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Hi,

I'm looking for recommendations regarding the use of plastering depth gauge beads made from galvanised steel sheet.

I want to try them for interior plastering but I'm not really sure if I should leave them in the plaster or take them out before it sets. Would they corrode or cause any problems over time? Will they stand proud of the plaster?

Thanks
 
Welcome to the forum.

I assume you're a diyer? Why do you want to use depth beads? Do you have a large wall that you want to divide into small sections? :)
 
I am not a professional plasterer but I manage to get a decent finish if I spend enough time. It seems to me that by using them one can get more work done with a consistent quality. Maybe I'm wrong! Just want some opinions from the pros :)
I am working on my own house.
 
There is no need to use beads to divide walls in your own home. No joins = better finish :)
 
if you are using a backing plaster and need to get some depth on the wall I first set out the corners of the room then lay screeds of plaster up the wall making sure they are plumb and a depth you want... then fill in the middle :)

This is old skool method but for those that dont do a lot of it (a lot of plasterers cant) its a fail proof way :)

I am slow at floating but I always got it perfect using this method :)

Maybe some older more experienced member can explain a better way or at least explain my way better ..lol

Danny
 
Thanks Danny and Minh. I am in fact using a backing plaster. I am familiar with the method you suggested Danny. I just thought using the gauges might be simpler. I'll give it a try with both methods. I'm guessing the finish plaster will cover up the bead heads.
 
jborg said:
Thanks Danny and Minh. I am in fact using a backing plaster. I am familiar with the method you suggested Danny. I just thought using the gauges might be simpler. I'll give it a try with both methods. I'm guessing the finish plaster will cover up the bead heads.
Click to expand...

It may well cover the beads but it will more than likely crack at some point in the future due to expansion and contraction. I would suspect even putting joint tape over the top of the bead may not help but, some one may know better as i have never seen or heard of this being done.
 
Use the depth beads as you say and skim straight over the top, skrim won't hurt over the beads but they shouldn't crack, dont bother with screeds you still need to know what you're doing with a straight edge
 
Thought it was something I'd missed out on!! bet he means stop beads. Did a job a long time ago and the guy floated the walls with S&C and I skimmed them. He pinged a line and put a solid line of S&C then using timber he plumbed it up and took off the timber. It left him with a plumb screed to work off when it had set and even though it took him ages it was flat and plumb.
 
This is a picture of depth gauge bead. Hope it explains more what I mean. Is it familiar?


bs_01_0170.jpg
 
I have seen similar in wickes,it's basically a modern version of recreating a ground or screeds which some chippys would fit on jobs for plasterers to run their straightedge over so they didn't have to rule freehand.learn to to do it freehand,it's much more satisfying.
 
if you really need levelling strips to work from why not just form 1-2" screeds fom the backing plaster and let it set, at the same intervals you would put your depth beads, float inbetween and skim.
 
Things like this are brought out for the amount of so called spreads who cant float and set straight , all they have ever done is dot n dab , and its just basic stuff for the tradesman/women, ffs make no wonder with 5 day courses out n about!!!
 
aye ... makes me laugh the amount of 'spreads' round my way that cant render etc as well .. ... saw some extension over the road and ive never seen such a pile of **** - makes me piss laughing everytime i see it ... i'd quit with embarrassment if i knocked out work like that tbh
 
I agree people need a wage and for that cant fault them ,but I had to do 5 yrs learning my trade, I must be a really slow learner , no I've got pride and I don't walk away until everyone's happy including me (been paid). I wont/don't walk away until I've got my money ,shite times but been robbed to often and now clients pay the day I've done.
 
Danny said:
if you are using a backing plaster and need to get some depth on the wall I first set out the corners of the room then lay screeds of plaster up the wall making sure they are plumb and a depth you want... then fill in the middle :)

This is old skool method but for those that dont do a lot of it (a lot of plasterers cant) its a fail proof way

I am slow at floating but I always got it perfect using this method :)

Maybe some older more experienced member can explain a better way or at least explain my way better ..lol

Danny
Click to expand...
if they cannot float they aint a plasterer
 
Thats why I miss working in oz in a way ..... all internal is S&C .... fly the mud on then 40 mins later its ruled off, excess is remixed and walls patched etc then a final rule... job done . None of this waiting ages or being rained off like today .
 
Gibbo said:
if they cannot float thdaysint a plasterer
Click to expand...
Trouble is though is that most domestic work is using plasterboard.... In my own house I would prefer floated walls....

Are you doing much domestic floating these days @Gibbo?

I am actually plastering today.... nice bit of skimming....lol

Danny
 
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I agree Danny, after seeing the finish in Australia of internals i'd prefer them floated in s&c then Lime Putty skimmed- actually liked it more than the materials in the Uk
 
Danny said:
Trouble is though is that most domestic work is using plasterboard.... In my own house I would prefer floated walls....

Are you doing much domestic floating these days @Gibbo?

I am actually plastering today.... nice bit of skimming....lol

Danny
Click to expand...
i dont do domestic work dan and at moment am doing no work
 
Could always go down the plumb and dot route which will achieve the same thing and get away from the problem of cracking
 
They use the depth gauge beads all the time in germany nothing wrong with them dab them on plumb them up its a screed
 
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