Plastering - doorframes queries

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mo7

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I am looking to have my whole house plastered soon (hardwall not plasterboards)

I have taken out all of my old doors and doorframes. My walls are made out of clinker blocks and the old door frames were built so that the fixings were actually in the mortar. Bottom line is that I have have lots of mits of metal poking out of the wall which need removing for the new doorframe to be fitted.

First query is - plaster first or put new frames in and then plaster?

Plaster first - plasterer uses beads presumably to give 2 nices edges. Advantage is that I get more flexibility in that I can get teh carpenter in after plasterer has gone rather than getting them in first and then bringing them back for other thingsl like skirting etc

Disadvantage - if the doorframe goes in first the inner sides of the door don't need plastering and its extra work. Also if you plaster the inner edges you are reducing the size of the openign slightly. I spose you could plaster the wall but not plaster all the way round and into the door (if that makes sense)

Plaster after door frame - advantage is of course you can plaster to an edge - downside as above it may cause hassle with getting people onsite at right time.

My other actual main questio nwas - shall I just angle grint/cut away the protuding metal - as long as I get it flush with the concrete it can then be covered over with a new wooden frame or if plastered the plaster will cover it.

Might make more sense with a picture which I will try to get tomorrow.
 
Either hammer the metal flat if space allows or like you say cut off with a grinder. Get the frames in first and plaster up to it. The chippy will be used to working that way anyway both straight forward jobs get a timeframe off both trades and book them in.
 
As monkey says.
Hammer or grind metal back. If you get plasterer to plaster into the doors you are creating more work and more money with the time the beading is set up.
I would definetly get frames in first. Plaster can finish flush withe the frames where as if fitted after you cant guarentee it will all finish flush then youl have the carpenter moaning
 
A decent chippy would do it quicker though. And he's got to come back to skirt it. And he probably wouldn't fancy fitting doors into casings fixed by someone else.
 
Done one in north London for a pair ofpricks,foreman hadn't a clue. Door frames on board work was out six mm ,I said it needs bonding out or planing off, he Gary from Bromley who lives with his mum said the classic line" never in my life has a plasterer ever complained about a frame been out too far ,it's always complaints about it not been out far enough" ******,should of stabbed him as that was our high point
 
A builder I work for always has thick casings because apparently they're too thick for the4x2. Plane the f**k**s down then. I aint building them out 6mm either side
 
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OK, thanks.

I spsoe as long as the old metal fixings are flush with the clinker block the new door frames can just be fitted over them and it won't matter if they are there.
 
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