Renovating 300 Year Old Cottage

[Dazzlestardust]

Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?

 

[Deleted member 32554]

Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?

No mention of the kettle

 

[essexandy]

Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?

Personally I'd put an insulated render system on the outside.
90 graphite EPS is what I'm going to be using on my 210 year old cottage.

 

[Dazzlestardust]

Personally I'd put an insulated render system on the outside.
90 graphite EPS is what I'm going to be using on my 210 year old cottage.

Is there a particular reason why you're doing that?

 

[John j]

Is there a particular reason why you're doing that?

To insulate it

 

[essexandy]

Is there a particular reason why you're doing that?

Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.

 

[John j]

Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.

You can get a 60 mm insulation that's same as 90 mm just saying. What bout losing some of garden

 

[Deleted member 32554]

Point the bricks and grow ivy

 

[tapit]

Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.

 

[essexandy]

You can get a 60 mm insulation that's same as 90 mm just saying. What bout losing some of garden

When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.

 

[John j]

When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.

Poor wildlife

 

[essexandy]

Poor wildlife

I only sit there shooting it with my blunderbust anyway.

 

[Dazzlestardust]

Personally I'd put an insulated render system on the outside.
90 graphite EPS is what I'm going to be using on my 210 year old cottage.

Okay thanks Andy....makes sense but not for me in this instance.

 

[Brimstone]

Is there a particular reason why you're doing that?

He needs room inside to swing a cat, or one of those big big fish he claims to catch.

 

[owls]

You can get a 60 mm insulation that's same as 90 mm just saying. What bout losing some of garden

You can use kooltherm phenolic board at 70mm, that are the same u value as 90mm eps.

 

[owls]

When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.

90m Eps on a solid wall, gives you a u value of 0.3 which is building regs, None combustible, easy to cut etc

 

[essexandy]

90m Eps on a solid wall, gives you a u value of 0.3 which is building regs, None combustible, easy to cut etc

I used it on my extension and have been really impressed with its performance.

 

[limeplastering]

Not a keen fan on any of the pre bagged nhl and looking into it most contain cement.
As your on stone needs to nhl based I’m not overly impressed with adding insulation to older buildings in renders myself I think it can be problematic

 

[tapit]

I had a penis extension and have been really impressed with its performance.

lucky you.

 

[John j]

You can use kooltherm phenolic board at 70mm, that are the same u value as 90mm eps.

Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .

 

[limeplastering]

Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?

What’s on your internal floor?

 

[essexandy]

Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .

You used the same as me, graphite EPS.
What thickness did you manage to nick?

 

[Stewie03]

What’s on your internal floor?

I reckon 8mm laminate flooring

 

[John j]

You used the same as me, graphite EPS.
What thickness did you manage to nick?

60 mm.

See how warm house is when windows in and heating on. So much to.do
Got cavity slabs in new bit but still.used insulated plaster boards so best be warm.in there

 

[essexandy]

60 mm.

See how warm house is when windows in and heating on. So much to.do
Got cavity slabs in new bit but still.used insulated plaster boards so best be warm.in there

My extension is single skin of the wide blocks with 90mm insulation and it's great summer and winter.

 

[John j]

My extension is single skin of the wide blocks with 90mm insulation and it's great summer and winter.

I.m gonna do garage . It's single skin breeze. What you recommend.

I told folk . Sell there house. Move in there and go on a world cruise with there money

 

[essexandy]

I.m gonna do garage . It's single skin breeze. What you recommend.

I told folk . Sell there house. Move in there and go on a world cruise with there money

I recommend telling your folks to move into garage, think themselves lucky and that they transfer their money over to you quick sharp.
Your welcome.

 

[John j]

I recommend telling your folks to move into garage, think themselves lucky and that they transfer their money over to you quick sharp.
Your welcome.

No interest in money













Got enough

 

[Ritch]

Not a keen fan on any of the pre bagged nhl and looking into it most contain cement.
As your on stone needs to nhl based I’m not overly impressed with adding insulation to older buildings in renders myself I think it can be problematic

U would say that being a lime guy, my mates like u. Say cements the devils work lol

 

[essexandy]

No interest in money













Got enough

If you had more you wouldn't have to squeak when you walk.

 

[John j]

If you had more you wouldn't have to squeak when you walk.

I.m not tight I.m wise with money

 

[owls]

I used it on my extension and have been really impressed with its performance.

Easy to handle , easy to cut, etc, only thing like most building materials at present though its price is going skywards,

 

[owls]

Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .

Yes you can render over mineral wool it has better breathability than eps.

 

[John j]

Yes you can render over mineral wool it has better breathability than eps.

Looks alot warmer as well

 

[owls]

Looks alot warmer as well

There about the same really To get to a u value of 0.3.
wools expensive ,mainly used on commercial stuff or high rise because you don’t need fire breaks in your system.