Setting up a D-42 with clamp

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Rigsby

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Right lads, I am having a problem setting up my D-42 with Clamp. As I understand it I have the motor running, water coming out of my pressure test gauge. I shut off the valve and after say 5-10 seconds after the needle has gone up as high as it will I turn the motor off and let the needle settle and take a reading. then release the valve. To tighten up the clamp only tighten the middle bolt and pinch up the upper and lower bolts. Well I have took off the old D-42 and replaced it with a new one although the old one hadn't done a lot of work but I had the following problem as with the new one. The new one read 22 bar, turn off the motor and it either settled at 9, 2 or 0 bar. Tighten it up and it still only went up to 22 bar and either settled at 9, 2 or 0 bar with the needle slowly going down. For a new R&S we tightened it up more and no difference. I also feel it must be well over tightened for a new R&S. I dont want to chance having a problem as the walls are all big ones so I took it off and put a D6-3 twister on. This had the needle shoot up to something like 35-40 bar, turn the motor off and it settled at 10 and stayed there. I would have thought a bit more for a new twister. Any advice as this is doing my head in! :RpS_mad:
 
Turn the motor on and off until the rotor finds the sweet spot, on and off quick and you'll find it holds pressure and like Gary says with 10 bar your good, it's easy to over tighten and then prematurely wear the r&s.
 
any leaks them twisters should be up a lot higher than that out the box....I personally don't stick to the middle bolt thing too rigidly it more a feel thing with them all gripping it with an emphasis on the middle bolt. we squirt a load of washing up liquid before testing to lube it not ever just with water, might make a difference as ours seem to last forever or at least normal or maybe we don't do enough spraying lol...good luck
 
You offered him 3500 then pranced around the forum a bit then ****** of .....for a start it's none of you're ******* business and what the **** is the matter with you you weirdo?
 
Lol is that the best you can do, how's you're ritmo you sold to you're polish mate then want to buy another xl then buy a mini jet then ask if you can buy another that's been sold, I've got a joddy you can have sold it ages ago give you good price
 
im only joking, im a nice guy really.......i dont really know what your talking about but i understand..just want to learn all there is about plastering...
 
whos it by? im looking for some plastering and rendering manuals.. gobbo said i could buy his complete set of euro boy mags for 20 quid
 
im not allowed to ring numbers i dont know.. i will get my mum to ring you in the morning if thats ok.. just had some trouble with someone on ebay..and they were ringing the house phone a 1am and abusing my dad
 
goody said:
any leaks them twisters should be up a lot higher than that out the box....I personally don't stick to the middle bolt thing too rigidly it more a feel thing with them all gripping it with an emphasis on the middle bolt. we squirt a load of washing up liquid before testing to lube it not ever just with water, might make a difference as ours seem to last forever or at least normal or maybe we don't do enough spraying lol...good luck
Click to expand...

Butt, would that not give you an inacurate reeading being a little lubed? surely the resistance wil be reduced?
 
when you fit a new R&S in a clamp you only want to pinch the jacket so it holds in the clamp, if you over tighten it will make it too tight and give you all sorts of problems. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere , check to make sure the new R&S is sealed around the pressure plate. We dont use the pressure gauge to test, we use a separate pressure tester with the release valve on the end of it.
 
What we found was as soon as the needle hits its peak hit the off button(dont let it bounce about for a few seconds) we seemed to get a better and more consistant reading,therefore less urge to keep nipping the clamp up.
 
My pressure tester has the release on the end of it. Can't see any leaks anywhere. The D4-2 we took off wasn't that old and no sooner had we started spraying it started to go wet. The water was turn down to the bottom of the gauge? If this D6-3 twister gives me bother I will take it in to L&D. We tightened the old 4-2 up to get the pressure up but I think it was to tight. If the twister does work ok I will still go to L&D to find out where I am going wrong with this setting up. Could the gauge be faulty?
 
Just been reading back some pages and found a couple of issues regarding clamped pumps. There is one on page 4 which mentions blocked filters. Merlin says these should be checked every couple of days. Well I had my machine services in April, done maybe 10 ton of mono on 4 jobs and have never checked the filters. Even forgot how to! So maybe this could be my problem?

Remind me how I go about cleaning the filters, how many are there and ....welll......where can I find them on a monojet(think I know where they are). :RpS_blushing:
 
Hi Mate, its not the time and amount of gear you use before checking filters , you can clean the filters and if some idiot decides to pull water form your barrel adding muck and dirt into your water system the filters can block in hours, even if you run off a stand pipe make sure you run it through until clean water comes out of your tape before connecting to the machine. if you filters are dirty you will see the float dropping while the machine is running.
 
Hi simply, we clean filters daily,but have experienced the float dropping,so we are always having to nudge the water back up. Its not really causing a problem but any ideas on why it would do this if the filters are clean. Cheers.
 
It sounds like you have air going into your water system there layton. Set your machine up to run and remove the mixing shaft and water pipe from mixing chamber. Run the machine and look to see if u have bubbles in the float chamber. Check all your seals and also the rubber o ring on the brass chamber cover that you remove when cleaning your filters.
 
Cheers blones, will check for air bubbles. Do you know if you have to book onto the roadshow demos or just turn up. Ta
 
These filters. I am sure I know where they are and I think there might be 2. Is it obvious how to unscrew them, clean them and reassemble? As I remember they are gauze type and have 'O' rings. Can some one confirm tonight as I am going to have a bash at this first thing in the morning.
 
orite mate on my machine there's a thimble geka fitted to the water inlet, easy to change and there's the less obvious but bigger one in the bottom of the black plastic cylinder housing with a big brass nut on the bottom....check in there they can get crudded up with rust deposits and more silty stuff which the inlet filter misses
 
john there is only 1 filter on the monojet john you should see a brass dome cap under the pressure reduction valve (its the big black thing with a grey top next to the clear plastic pressure switch) just undo it and you will see a white gauze filter take it out give it a good clean you'll be suprised at how little dirt will cause you a problem then put it back in but make sure you put it in the right way you'll feel it click in.

these filters are not like filters you get on a car that you replace at every service they are part of general maintenace that you really need to be doing almst on a daily basis
 
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