Solid Garage Wall Tanking + Insulating

[mpilk]

Hi, looking for some advice on solid wall tanking and insulation.

I have a garage built with solid walls which has been damp since I bought the property 5 years ago. I live on a hill and one wall is also on the divide between the neighbours property uphill. This wall has the DPM bridged as there land is above. House was built 1903 I presume garage is as old.

This has been the case since I bought it, and since previous owners did 15 years before, so I don't think I'm about to dig up next door anytime soon unfortunately.

I have tanked the wall (followed all instructions, bricks were clean, 2 coats, in 24hrs).
I have left over material and could probably go over 80% of what I tanked again - its now been a few days.

Question 1 - Do I put a 3rd coat on or will this cause problems as its longer than 24hrs? There is a small patch I tried it on and this appears the driest and doesn't have any condensation on.

There is a far bit of condensation now. (With doors open etc walls are dry to touch, overnight it build up again, so happy its condensation and sorting extractor out now). I would like to add some insulation that's breathable to bring wall temp up a bit. I have a number of motorbikes and bicycles I'd rather rotted a bit slower

Question 2 - Is the insulted lime based plaster the way to go or wood based boards?

All advice greatly appreciated thanks

 

[JessThePlasterer]

Someone on here will be able to advise better than me but I’ll put my two cents in and if nothing else it’ll bump your post

I would say that if the wall is against earth it will always be very damp so you have to work with that. There’s no fixing the cause

Sand and cement with waterproofer will likely sweat and always have condensation

Any renovation plasters likely won’t work as the damp is too much, too penetrative

You’re probably best off fitting one of those systems that allows the condensation to happen behind (like the corrugated stuff) and then depending on how much condensation is produced it either evaporates away or you have to get some kind of pump etc

You’re really best getting a good company in. And really shop about because most people with “damp expert “ in the title are pulling your leg.

 

[zombie]

Obviously moving said earth best practoce in addition need to build a studwall in front to create a cavty

 

[bobski]

Tank again is fine (and I'd 100% coat it all a 3rd)

To slow down the condensation at dew point and insulate, id be more inclined to coat in limelite or equivalent. Go on wykamol or safeguards sites and see. This also really stops salt passage very well and has insulating properties.

Not cheap, don't cut corners on jobs like this, you won't "cheat it good"


Lime is ok, you need to know what your doing and using and how to use it.

You can always insulate more, depending on your reason for insulating, is it to just reduce the condensation and make the area good for storing the bikes only or to really improve it and make it habitable?


Ventilation is EQUALLY AS IMPORTANT as the insulation!




.

 

[JessThePlasterer]

Tank again is fine (and I'd 100% coat it all a 3rd)

To slow down the condensation at dew point and insulate, id be more inclined to coat in limelite or equivalent. Go on wykamol or safeguards sites and see. This also really stops salt passage very well and has insulating properties.

Not cheap, don't cut corners on jobs like this, you won't "cheat it good"


Lime is ok, you need to know what your doing and using and how to use it.

You can always insulate more, depending on your reason for insulating, is it to just reduce the condensation and make the area good for storing the bikes only or to really improve it and make it habitable?


Ventilation is EQUALLY AS IMPORTANT as the insulation!




.

If he goes over his tanking with limelite, tanking dams while limelite breathes. They’re opposing materials no?

And he’s got a wall of earth on the other side that, as it reads, he can’t shift.

I’d be making a cavity as zombie said and looking into insulation or drainage depending on the amount of water penetrating

 

[bobski]

If he goes over his tanking with limelite, tanking dams while limelite breathes. They’re opposing materials no?

And he’s got a wall of earth on the other side that, as it reads, he can’t shift.

I’d be making a cavity as zombie said and looking into insulation or drainage depending on the amount of water penetrating

Not opposing

A feature of limelite is it can breathe


But what would be key would be to lessen and almost stop the moisture condensation on them cold spots, limelites insulating additive would slow that and at the same time stop any salt migration.

Ventilation is key for this.

 

[JessThePlasterer]

Not opposing

A feature of limelite is it can breathe


But what would be key would be to lessen and almost stop the moisture condensation on them cold spots, limelites insulating additive would slow that and at the same time stop any salt migration.

Ventilation is key for this.

Ah so you mean that when laid on top of the tanking it would breathe out the condensation formed on the tanking? Interesting

And it’s refreshing to bounce ideas without chest puffing so thank you sir

Although I’ve just poured the biggest gin of my life so I’ll be ready to fight it out in roughly 20 mins if you’d like to reconvene then?!

 

[bobski]

Ah so you mean that when laid on top of the tanking it would breathe out the condensation formed on the tanking? Interesting

And it’s refreshing to bounce ideas without chest puffing so thank you sir

Although I’ve just poured the biggest gin of my life so I’ll be ready to fight it out in roughly 20 mins if you’d like to reconvene then?!

Almost

Moisture wouldn't make it to the tanking

(Not seen the room - but anyway)

You'd move the point, (as insulation in mix)


Moisture in the air (in the room) which is warmer wouldn't gravitate to the coldest point (wall with earth and moisture behind it) because of the insulation in the mix.

Often the case once people go through dpc install and months/years later find they still have damp at install point


Moisture condensates and gathers to that coldest spot on tanking, leading to possible poor/wrong diagnosis that moisture is coming through...... As s+c 3 to 1 has the poorest thermal...... Basically a slab of 'cold'

A magnet for moisture


Products like limelite reduce that

Just one of their properties.




And venting the room of moisture is key.









Enjoy the gin