Some days

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I even surprise myself how good I am
 

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carys said:
Self praise is no recommendation lol
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Ha tbh I had no idea how that was going to go. First time I've overboarded a lath and plaster ceiling up to nice cornice like that
 
I can’t be seeing that!
Can’t be having cornice tucked behind ceiling :rayos:
Same goes for laminate floor butting up to skirting board
 
Monkey Boy said:
I can’t be seeing that!
Can’t be having cornice tucked behind ceiling :rayos:
Same goes for laminate floor butting up to skirting board
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Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do... Cornice was up and down anyway so will just look like another step in it I think
 
That’s the first time I’ve seen the board/bead end result with cornice so thanks for posting that up. I still prefer leaving a gap and bonding it but that’s just personal preference.

tidy job
 
JessThePlasterer said:
That’s the first time I’ve seen the board/bead end result with cornice so thanks for posting that up. I still prefer leaving a gap and bonding it but that’s just personal preference.

tidy job
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How short do you leave the board generally? I've never done it like that
 
shadow gap bead is the way to do these. Smart as. They're just a pain to find. Next best thing is what naths done. Bonding up to it is a bit rough to be honest.
 
Ktownsend said:
shadow gap bead is the way to do these. Smart as. They're just a pain to find. Next best thing is what naths done. Bonding up to it is a bit rough to be honest.
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What's a shadow gap bead? Can you not achieve the same thing with an edge bead and leaving a gap?
 
Nath80 said:
What's a shadow gap bead? Can you not achieve the same thing with an edge bead and leaving a gap?
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Some days Also available in plastic now, mainly for drylining. Means you can put it against say door frame and get a fixed constant width without messing about with a spacer etc. with a stop bead. Also it hide a crappy background/mastic/holes etc. & allows you to wipe it out clean without ruining the wet edge.
This one in the pic looks a bit wide for me, prefer narrow so it creates a shadow (Duh). Sometimes paint the channel black to create a false shadow. On your's it'd get painted white, but I like and prefer your angled edge, v. nice.
 
JessThePlasterer said:
Depends where the joists are but I like 200mm. I just like how the cornice stays exactly as it is and lip isn’t affected. I scrim between the board and bonding before it’s gone off so can push the scrim in. Your way looks neat though
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So you’d board the ceiling 200mm short of the cornice and then bond from the board to the cornice to loose the 9.5mm lip?
 
Dollar said:
Dog s**t
Laminate with beading

Your welcome
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That’s ridiculous. You can’t say ‘dog s**t’.

It’s a smart , neat job and left clean and tidy. Whether or not it’s your own approach or not. It’s certainly not rough.

But why am I explaining stuff to a crazy person?:hueco:
 
JessThePlasterer said:
That’s ridiculous. You can’t say ‘dog s**t’.

It’s a smart , neat job and left clean and tidy. Whether or not it’s your own approach or not. It’s certainly not rough.

But why am I explaining stuff to a crazy person?:hueco:
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I think he’s referring to the method rather than the execution tbh
 
Complete said:
So you’d board the ceiling 200mm short of the cornice and then bond from the board to the cornice to loose the 9.5mm lip?
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Yes, pretty much. To the eye you can’t tell the discrepancy when finished.

This debates been on before and I know it’s not everybody’s cup of tea but I like it.
 
JessThePlasterer said:
Yes, pretty much. To the eye you can’t tell the discrepancy when finished.

This debates been on before and I know it’s not everybody’s cup of tea but I like it.
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I doubt many people wouldn’t notice a 10mm level over a 200mm area to be honest. I think it should just be done properly by reinforcing the cornice and then removing the lay and plaster before boarding. It’s long winded and expensive but anything worth doing is worth doing right
 
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