SOurcing Structo-lite in the UK

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Can you please recommend one?
I looked at the product and there are so many types the same as we have here ie atleast ten backing plasters and a similar amount of finishing plasters. Explain the job you are doing and the type of background you are going onto then Someone will be able to help :)
 
Thank you for your helpful reply. The application is onto bare brick and it must be heat resistant unlike standard plaster to withstand the heat from a fireplace on the chimneybreast front and sides.
 
Thank you for your helpful reply. The application is onto bare brick and it must be heat resistant unlike standard plaster to withstand the heat from a fireplace on the chimneybreast front and sides.
Sand and cement with lime rubbed to a smooth finish
 
Thank you for the reply. Should I use regular red builders sand? Which hydrated lime product do you recommend and should I use a regular square ended plastering trowel to smooth it up?
 
cant imagine with the gear on the beads are going to bed

otherwise if that was the cause the fire wouldn't be made out of metal
 
I have found a suitable product in the UK. Thistle Browning is a gypsum undercoat plaster for use on moderate suction backgrounds with an adequate mechanical key, e.g. some brickwork or blockwork. With a final coat of Thistle Multi Finish, Thistle Browning provides a smooth, inert, high quality surface to internal walls and ceilings, and a durable base for the application of decorative finishes. Thistle Browning is a lightweight, r******d hemihydrate, pre-mixed gypsum plaster, incorporating expanded perlite aggregate, requiring only the addition of clean water to prepare it for use.


Note: It should not be used on surfaces treated with bonding agents.
 
The reason that this whole thing started up was because I had read that sand and cement do not respond well to heat and it will cause cracking as it dries out the mixture leading to a chemical change. I am pretty sure I read that mortar/concrete depends on moisture being retained within to remain stable and exposing it to too much heat causes cracking because the moisture locked inside is drawn out and the mixture shrinks.

Why would refractory/fire resistant concrete be produced otherwise? Obviously I am no expert and would appreciate yours on this.
 
You reading too much into it just use sand and cement use a rendering sand and get a bag of lime from the builders hard. Mix 4-1-1 and you should be fine rub up with a plastic or wooden float and go over with a sponge. Metal beads will be fine on the corners you can get a finish plaster do a search for vitcas but it is expensive.
 
You reading too much into it just use sand and cement use a rendering sand and get a bag of lime from the builders hard. Mix 4-1-1 and you should be fine rub up with a plastic or wooden float and go over with a sponge. Metal beads will be fine on the corners you can get a finish plaster do a search for vitcas but it is expensive.

Thank you all for your tips, particularly the one quoted.

Is a plastic float better than a wooden one? I would imagine that it is because it cannot suck out the moisture in the mix when rubbing the area.

How much time would you give an area of brickwork after first applying the mixture to a brick wall which has first been primer with pva and left to go tacky to prevent too much absorption before floating it? Then how long would you leave it before sponging it to get an even finer finish?

Is there much different between rendering sand and builders sand? The red building sand I have from Jewsons consists of pretty fine particles.

How smooth do you think the results would be just by using the recommended mixture and following the above steps without using vitcas? Good enough for the feature wall of a lounge? If not, I presume I would need to etch the mixture once done and leave it to dry for a few hours before applying something like vitcas?
 
Thank you all for your tips, particularly the one quoted.

Is a plastic float better than a wooden one? I would imagine that it is because it cannot suck out the moisture in the mix when rubbing the area.

How much time would you give an area of brickwork after first applying the mixture to a brick wall which has first been primer with pva and left to go tacky to prevent too much absorption before floating it? Then how long would you leave it before sponging it to get an even finer finish?

Is there much different between rendering sand and builders sand? The red building sand I have from Jewsons consists of pretty fine particles.

How smooth do you think the results would be just by using the recommended mixture and following the above steps without using vitcas? Good enough for the feature wall of a lounge? If not, I presume I would need to etch the mixture once done and leave it to dry for a few hours before applying something like vitcas?
,there isn't a time on when you put a finish on it comes with experience,not wet butnot dry,sbr not pva and plastering sand is a must (sharp and pointed grains that lock together well,not more rounded like building sand)
 
I have a contact for high alumina cement if you really want it its whats used in pizza ovens.
Let me know its about 30 quid a bag
 
I looked up Vitcas and it says it should not be used as a fireplace screed or render nor for barbecues or other outside applications?
 
I know it would be easier to get someone in but I really want to do this myself as I enjoy learning new skills, but before I do I just want to ensure I am using the right products. Based on what you have said I should be fine to use cement, lime, plastering sand and water to render the fireplace chimneybreast and stove walls. I believe the ratio to be 1:1:6:0.45 (sand ratio doubled due to lime) for basecoat and 1:1:8:0.45 for finish (sand ratio doubled due to lime). Does anyone disagree with this ratio or mixture for this job which will need to withstand the heat from the stove?
 
The ratios have been given above,are you on about putting hydraulic lime in the mix? :RpS_confused:
 
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