Spraying after DPC

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Yours was the first insult telling me to find a plasterer who can render a wall.

The other thread is a single skin brick wall that's why it's not ok.

This is a big old house that's had a damp course, knocked off upto 1.4 high, a coat of s&c, tanked, and then another coat of s&c, it couldn't be more different.

I won't bother asking again.
The problem is the problem...


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Spraying after DPC
 
BigK said:
Yours was the first insult telling me to find a plasterer who can render a wall.

The other thread is a single skin brick wall that's why it's not ok.

This is a big old house that's had a damp course, knocked off upto 1.4 high, a coat of s&c, tanked, and then another coat of s&c, it couldn't be more different.

I won't bother asking again.
The problem is the problem...


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What was the problem with it before it was ripped to bits? Oh and the problem is what you are using to dab and pretty much the same reason on the single skin wall. Ps you left your self wide open for the get a plasterer to do it when you said she wanted it spot on x
 
Surely you would be OK to put gypsum (dabbing) on top of tanking & s&c?
By that token you wouldn't be able to skim with gypsum?
That's what I can't understand


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BigK said:
Surely you would be OK to put gypsum (dabbing) on top of tanking & s&c?
By that token you wouldn't be able to skim with gypsum?
That's what I can't understand


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Do you think you would be ok to float the wall with hard wall or bonding?
 
In theory, in this place yes over the tanking & two coats of s&c. So now I'm guessing your worried about water penetration?
I'm not worried at all about that, I thought you might mean possible condensation problems previously as my head gets wrecked with that at times.
Not bothered at all now!
I'll crack on!!


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Let me see if I got it right.
Usually damp is a problem at low levels and underground levels is even worst, hence the great attention to details. The walls, especially underground level are expected to have always some moisture and they will never be as dry as the one above and externals . Saying that, the render has to be stronger do to the simple fact moisture will never let it cure on 100% like the external. So, accepting the fact there always will be some moisture in the wall, no matter what, and here is the moment to mention that with the render all we do is to minimise the penetration to the face, I think any kind of board will not resist in a long term.

Spraying after DPC
 
BigK said:
In theory, in this place yes over the tanking & two coats of s&c. So now I'm guessing your worried about water penetration?
I'm not worried at all about that, I thought you might mean possible condensation problems previously as my head gets wrecked with that at times.
Not bothered at all now!
I'll crack on!!


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So what was the problem in the first place? yes condensation on a cold wall will cause problems, you also have to remember that you have waterproofed the wall so nothing is going to get past the dabs when they get cold so they won't or can't dry out.
 
In fairness vfr12, those boards are below dpc!!

I would have thought the dabs would dry out like anything else does, with heat & ventilation? Certainly not through suction.
As well as that flynny, you say we have a waterproof background, yet talk of water penetration through it. You can't have it both ways [emoji1]

I'm not aware of any original problem btw, just an old house having a complete restore so they threw in a damp course.
Also only dabbing internal walls in it. They are battening outside walls and thermal boarding those


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BigK said:
In fairness vfr12, those boards are below dpc!!

I would have thought the dabs would dry out like anything else does, with heat & ventilation? Certainly not through suction.
As well as that flynny, you say we have a waterproof background, yet talk of water penetration through it. You can't have it both ways [emoji1]

I'm not aware of any original problem btw, just an old house having a complete restore so they threw in a damp course.
Also only dabbing internal walls in it. They are battening outside walls and thermal boarding those


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I never mentioned water penetrating through you said that, so the gaff had no problems but was hacked to f**k and treated with a needless damp course? Then the internal walls got the same treatment then dabbed? Why not dab the external walls if there is no problem?
 
Because I'm not 'in charge' of those. The client is doing those........

When you said you couldn't float them with bonding or hardwall I thought you were going on about water penetration.
I'm unaware of any original problems but can see mould in the usual places, kitchen, bathrooms due to lack of ventilation previously.



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BigK said:
Because I'm not 'in charge' of those. The client is doing those........

When you said you couldn't float them with bonding or hardwall I thought you were going on about water penetration.
I'm unaware of any original problems but can see mould in the usual places, kitchen, bathrooms due to lack of ventilation previously.



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Which in turn will show every dab due to whatever the initial problem was.
 
BigK said:
In fairness vfr12, those boards are below dpc!!

I would have thought the dabs would dry out like anything else does, with heat & ventilation? Certainly not through suction.
As well as that flynny, you say we have a waterproof background, yet talk of water penetration through it. You can't have it both ways [emoji1]

I'm not aware of any original problem btw, just an old house having a complete restore so they threw in a damp course.
Also only dabbing internal walls in it. They are battening outside walls and thermal boarding those


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To be fair I didn't post that picture to show what happens when you d&d , but the shocking effect of water getting to the boards and what I think about it. You won't believe if I tell you this mould appear in less than 3 months and this is double skin 15mm pink board. No difference with the green ones either. First time I see anything like this and the smell is just out of this world.
 
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