Top coat
- Thread starter FreeD
- Start date
Orangemachineman
Well-Known Member
I and all the other plastering in our area use a 75/25 mortar mix.
It's a soft sand and it's decent
I've never used a sharp sand!!
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vfr12
MOTORC*NT
you better delete that nonsen
is this some kind of joke or you are serious? If is a joke is too late, if you are serious I suggest you delete it to avoid further embarrassments
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
Too late for any advise now. It's on the wall already,but I like it- kind of assumes everything that goes on hereBrush down the substrate using a soft hand brush....red ones are good
Apply a well mixed sbr slurry to the pre-damped substrate.....any bucket brush combo is acceptable....
Before slurry is completely dry apply a coat of sand and cement mix to either 5:1 or 6:1 adding lime to either if that is your wish ......the mixer to use is an electric belle as a diesel one makes far too much noise and anyway the orange colour looks nice.....
Rule the sand and cement mix nice and flat......don't just use a gash piece of wood as a rule, use an aluminium one...several to choose from but an "h" rule is quite nice to use......
Devil float the surface......use a plastic float with no less than four nails protruding no more than 2mm .....use a circular motion until you get bored and then do a figure of eight....work from the left or the right...both are acceptable...
Clean down, sweep up, wash out, ...You can do this in any order you like, but have a radio one whilst you are doing it......smooth extra is best for this......any radio will do .......but yellow ones sound better..
Not more than 24hrs after all this you can apply a gypsum finish......multi is good, unifinish would also be ok......there are others available but we like multi the bestest.....
You can work from the bucket to do this finish or a board and stand.....the bucket must be opaque...anything else will make the plaster finish all stripes..don't have too small a board and stand, this will make the plaster fall off..
You can use a metal trowel to apply the finish .....take care not to put it on upside down or inside out.....if you choose stainless steel, you must have spent at least some pounds on it, cheaper ones make the plaster all rippley....if you use a carbon trowel you must soak it for a week in vinegar, because that will make it smell nice..... you can start at the top or the bottom...you will have to have a hawk......hand boards aren't as good...whatever you choose it must have a handle...handles a fat as your willy seem like a good idea....
After you have put n the first coat, you will have to use a speedskim to flatten it, these are blue and that's the colour of the sky on a nice day....
When you put on the second coat...even if it is part of the gauge mixed for the first coat....you must be careful....far too often people just aren't, and that is a shame....
When you have got the second coat on the world of plaster finishes opens up for you.....flat, flat and smooth, Bulgarian brush finish, bobbly, stripey and many, many more... you can use a sponge on your wall anytime you like, yellow ones won't work...it must be blue or orange...
There are many trowels you can use for finishing .......some are metal, some are plastic, a lot have pretty handles so that's nice.. some people use metal faced skimming rules ....some don't.....
Trowel your wall until it has a smooth, closed in, blemish free, uniform look to it, unless you are doing the Bulgarian brush......
Whilst doing this work don't wear fancy dress, that would be silly....
I agree/like everyone........easily lead you see.....
Lastlaff
Well-Known Member
I'm serious and why would I be embarrassed at what I believe.
The final PSI strength of a sand & cement render with the addition of hydrated lime is reduced.
A mix of 5:1:1 sand, cement & lime could not have the same final PSI strength as a mix of 5:1 sand & cement. Any additional material dilutes the mix down.
I've conducted my own testing with these materials and know what works for me.
Everyone to their own.
The final PSI strength of a sand & cement render with the addition of hydrated lime is reduced.
A mix of 5:1:1 sand, cement & lime could not have the same final PSI strength as a mix of 5:1 sand & cement. Any additional material dilutes the mix down.
I've conducted my own testing with these materials and know what works for me.
Everyone to their own.
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
The starting point of strength for sand and cement render is the cement.Adding the sand is what weakens the cement and makes it useable. Adding lime to it takes it to a diferent level.If you want strong render why not using cement only? A few starting points for you to conduct a few more experiments. But I agree with you tho- believes is what drives us everyday! 
Olican
Private Member
Brush down the substrate using a soft hand brush....red ones are good
Apply a well mixed sbr slurry to the pre-damped substrate.....any bucket brush combo is acceptable....
Before slurry is completely dry apply a coat of sand and cement mix to either 5:1 or 6:1 adding lime to either if that is your wish ......the mixer to use is an electric belle as a diesel one makes far too much noise and anyway the orange colour looks nice.....
Rule the sand and cement mix nice and flat......don't just use a gash piece of wood as a rule, use an aluminium one...several to choose from but an "h" rule is quite nice to use......
Devil float the surface......use a plastic float with no less than four nails protruding no more than 2mm .....use a circular motion until you get bored and then do a figure of eight....work from the left or the right...both are acceptable...
Clean down, sweep up, wash out, ...You can do this in any order you like, but have a radio one whilst you are doing it......smooth extra is best for this......any radio will do .......but yellow ones sound better..
Not more than 24hrs after all this you can apply a gypsum finish......multi is good, unifinish would also be ok......there are others available but we like multi the bestest.....
You can work from the bucket to do this finish or a board and stand.....the bucket must be opaque...anything else will make the plaster finish all stripes..don't have too small a board and stand, this will make the plaster fall off..
You can use a metal trowel to apply the finish .....take care not to put it on upside down or inside out.....if you choose stainless steel, you must have spent at least some pounds on it, cheaper ones make the plaster all rippley....if you use a carbon trowel you must soak it for a week in vinegar, because that will make it smell nice..... you can start at the top or the bottom...you will have to have a hawk......hand boards aren't as good...whatever you choose it must have a handle...handles a fat as your willy seem like a good idea....
After you have put n the first coat, you will have to use a speedskim to flatten it, these are blue and that's the colour of the sky on a nice day....
When you put on the second coat...even if it is part of the gauge mixed for the first coat....you must be careful....far too often people just aren't, and that is a shame....
When you have got the second coat on the world of plaster finishes opens up for you.....flat, flat and smooth, Bulgarian brush finish, bobbly, stripey and many, many more... you can use a sponge on your wall anytime you like, yellow ones won't work...it must be blue or orange...
There are many trowels you can use for finishing .......some are metal, some are plastic, a lot have pretty handles so that's nice.. some people use metal faced skimming rules ....some don't.....
Trowel your wall until it has a smooth, closed in, blemish free, uniform look to it, unless you are doing the Bulgarian brush......
Whilst doing this work don't wear fancy dress, that would be silly....
Thoroughly enjoyed reading that [emoji106]
FreeD
Private Member
Alright lads...It's a tricky job, it really needs to all be taken back and dry lined or membraned and dry lined...(for speed to isolate any dampness) or you could hack the lot off and lime render...breathable paints if budget was no concern.
Same old problems, concrete slab against the wall front and back, hard cracked cement render on front and back, abutting garden wall, chimneys ripped out, vents blocked, double glazing no trickle vents, builders rubble under the floor built up around dwarf walls...
I'm polishing a turd, doing the best I can for a customer on a budget.
The mix is not so important...I was debating going on with a 4-1 with SBR for a bit of extra protection against damp/salts...(there has been damp) existing tanking/scratch coat holding it back (I've made a few localised repairs) but ended up going with a 5-1-1 as didn't want to put too much stress on the scratch....
Same old problems, concrete slab against the wall front and back, hard cracked cement render on front and back, abutting garden wall, chimneys ripped out, vents blocked, double glazing no trickle vents, builders rubble under the floor built up around dwarf walls...
I'm polishing a turd, doing the best I can for a customer on a budget.
The mix is not so important...I was debating going on with a 4-1 with SBR for a bit of extra protection against damp/salts...(there has been damp) existing tanking/scratch coat holding it back (I've made a few localised repairs) but ended up going with a 5-1-1 as didn't want to put too much stress on the scratch....
FreeD
Private Member
Brush down the substrate using a soft hand brush....red ones are good
Apply a well mixed sbr slurry to the pre-damped substrate.....any bucket brush combo is acceptable....
Before slurry is completely dry apply a coat of sand and cement mix to either 5:1 or 6:1 adding lime to either if that is your wish ......the mixer to use is an electric belle as a diesel one makes far too much noise and anyway the orange colour looks nice.....
Rule the sand and cement mix nice and flat......don't just use a gash piece of wood as a rule, use an aluminium one...several to choose from but an "h" rule is quite nice to use......
Devil float the surface......use a plastic float with no less than four nails protruding no more than 2mm .....use a circular motion until you get bored and then do a figure of eight....work from the left or the right...both are acceptable...
Clean down, sweep up, wash out, ...You can do this in any order you like, but have a radio one whilst you are doing it......smooth extra is best for this......any radio will do .......but yellow ones sound better..
Not more than 24hrs after all this you can apply a gypsum finish......multi is good, unifinish would also be ok......there are others available but we like multi the bestest.....
You can work from the bucket to do this finish or a board and stand.....the bucket must be opaque...anything else will make the plaster finish all stripes..don't have too small a board and stand, this will make the plaster fall off..
You can use a metal trowel to apply the finish .....take care not to put it on upside down or inside out.....if you choose stainless steel, you must have spent at least some pounds on it, cheaper ones make the plaster all rippley....if you use a carbon trowel you must soak it for a week in vinegar, because that will make it smell nice..... you can start at the top or the bottom...you will have to have a hawk......hand boards aren't as good...whatever you choose it must have a handle...handles a fat as your willy seem like a good idea....
After you have put n the first coat, you will have to use a speedskim to flatten it, these are blue and that's the colour of the sky on a nice day....
When you put on the second coat...even if it is part of the gauge mixed for the first coat....you must be careful....far too often people just aren't, and that is a shame....
When you have got the second coat on the world of plaster finishes opens up for you.....flat, flat and smooth, Bulgarian brush finish, bobbly, stripey and many, many more... you can use a sponge on your wall anytime you like, yellow ones won't work...it must be blue or orange...
There are many trowels you can use for finishing .......some are metal, some are plastic, a lot have pretty handles so that's nice.. some people use metal faced skimming rules ....some don't.....
Trowel your wall until it has a smooth, closed in, blemish free, uniform look to it, unless you are doing the Bulgarian brush......
Whilst doing this work don't wear fancy dress, that would be silly....
Thanks man, sometimes we forget the basics...I used to work occasionally with a plasterer that used a fanny tickler to brush in his edges...have you seen it used?
Been so long since I've tickled any fanny.........thoughts like these spark distant memories, like fresh mown grass can take you to a time long ago.......can anyone else smell fish??....