Good Afternoon Darren
I have now received the lab report back and confirm the following;
Vigorous testing was concluded and the lab report confirmed the product was fit for purpose and falls within the manufacturing specifications resulting in no defects. Therefore it is concluded that the issue would be with the existing sub-face either not being cleaned thoroughly or it contaminants were present.
Kindest Regards
I’ve pasted the email ffs!!!!!
What will the email prove now?
Oh I thought you was on about IslamThat uni is sh it and BG cannot be trusted with their bullsh it guarantees
That looks like a jigsaw....the missing piece is just on the right
Keep it on topic please
Jigsaw I will apologise for anything I’ve said that has been seen bad to you and Danny too , picture posted there is no argument to be had also tbh I am sad to see that you been left to sort , I’ve had issues on jobs that I’ve rectified myself not with unifinish but in my time, seeing your pictures I don’t need any email to view tbh.Bet that is still not good enough!!!!!!!!!!
Keep it on topic please
Jigsaw I will apologise for anything I’ve said that has been seen bad to you and Danny too , picture posted there is no argument to be had also tbh I am sad to see that you been left to sort , I’ve had issues on jobs that I’ve rectified myself not with unifinish but in my time, seeing your pictures I don’t need any email to view tbh.
Love bikes!!!!
Love bikes!!!!
Back handed apology what a w**k*r.Jigsaw I will apologise for anything I’ve said that has been seen bad to you and Danny too , picture posted there is no argument to be had also tbh I am sad to see that you been left to sort , I’ve had issues on jobs that I’ve rectified myself not with unifinish but in my time, seeing your pictures I don’t need any email to view tbh.
Umi dries well hard. Impossible so sand so I use on patch work and over small artex areas. I nearly always seal though! If only a thin seal coat over bare artex if scraped. Have used without for first coat though, without sealing but you need to be sure it's clean and sound so I wash surfaces with vistol first. If I can't wash I seal.. That's as clear as mud answerIf you seal most surfaces why not just use the cheaper multi and have the extra few quid in your pocket ?
Umi dries well hard. Impossible so sand so I use on patch work and over small artex areas. I nearly always seal though! If only a thin seal coat over bare artex if scraped. Have used without for first coat though, without sealing but you need to be sure it's clean and sound so I wash surfaces with vistol first. If I can't wash I seal.. That's as clear as mud answer
That’s a bit bad but to be expected I supposeBack handed apology what a w**k*r.
I'm glad you understandThat’s a bit bad but to be expected I suppose
Obviously mate the plasters off , would of save me getting into trouble if just posted the pictures at the start , can’t blame me for being surprised to see it when it’s like that , I use it all the time , still trying to think why it dropped tbh, today I’m just trowelling up going straight over this with unifinish no one has done anything since 1985 here and I’ve just bashed it straight on no problemWhy isn’t today’s paper next to the email please explain this please
Vincey on the naughty step for you
I had no problem until 3 months later. That is what worries me!!!!Obviously mate the plasters off , would of save me getting into trouble if just posted the pictures at the start , can’t blame me for being surprised to see it when it’s like that , I use it all the time , still trying to think why it dropped tbh, today I’m just trowelling up going straight over this with unifinish no one has done anything since 1985 here and I’ve just bashed it straight on no problem
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What u do in covering fireplace,,,just slap it on all over the shop,,,don't use stupid dust sheets,,,check that surface now ,see its compatible with uni.Obviously mate the plasters off , would of save me getting into trouble if just posted the pictures at the start , can’t blame me for being surprised to see it when it’s like that , I use it all the time , still trying to think why it dropped tbh, today I’m just trowelling up going straight over this with unifinish no one has done anything since 1985 here and I’ve just bashed it straight on no problem
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Right vince, if ever there was a case for using uni, then that's it. We all know how long pva would take dry in on that surface, horrific artex and horrific paint. How did it go? How long from mix to final trowel?Obviously mate the plasters off , would of save me getting into trouble if just posted the pictures at the start , can’t blame me for being surprised to see it when it’s like that , I use it all the time , still trying to think why it dropped tbh, today I’m just trowelling up going straight over this with unifinish no one has done anything since 1985 here and I’ve just bashed it straight on no problem
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Right vince, if ever there was a case for using uni, then that's it. We all know how long pva would take dry in on that surface, horrific artex and horrific paint. How did it go? How long from mix to final trowel?
I'm not saying I would use it. I'm saying that if there was a case for using it, then that's it. Say on a cold morning, no heating in that room, I know that on that surface the PVA would take an eternity to tack up, or fully dry as I prefer. You end up going on too wet and the finish slides about like f**k, 3 hour gauging here we go.This thread has shown uni cannot be trusted and furthermore @BritishGypsum trusted even less.
I sheet up, pva everywhere, bead up, bring my gear in get water etc and then it’s good to go, no time lost and safe in the knowledge it will not fall off, and I do not have to worry about some bulls hit guarantee backing out with the "oh it’s the surface not the uni"
I get you , I wouldn’t worry about the others ones tbh , proper got me stumped yours have , no lie on a lot of jobs I’ve tried to make it fall off , tested it on bricks,tile,chip paper , easifill, glass, steal , dry bone plaster with rapid 45 minutes set everything I could possibly think to get it to drop the only one that ever dropped was a loose paint that I knew would come off , it was still stuck to the paint and I knew it would come off , that’s why I’m stumped with yours , even hstokes that they said was on to thick , well it can be , any skim can even though in real life we bosh it on thicker and get away with it ,I had no problem until 3 months later. That is what worries me!!!!
It went on lovely ,troweled up really well & was waiting for it so it didn’t go off to quick either.
Same with both jobs!!
Like I said in previous posts I have used quite a bit of it so just waiting to see if any other jobs come back
Done mate in 2hrs 50, no lie I had another job this morning in a bathroom somewhere else I got here around 12pmRight vince, if ever there was a case for using uni, then that's it. We all know how long pva would take dry in on that surface, horrific artex and horrific paint. How did it go? How long from mix to final trowel?
I'm not saying I would use it. I'm saying that if there was a case for using it, then that's it. Say on a cold morning, no heating in that room, I know that on that surface the PVA would take an eternity to tack up, or fully dry as I prefer. You end up going on too wet and the finish slides about like f**k, 3 hour gauging here we go.
Sound, about a bag and a half? Good going timewise. Hopefully you are charging good money, as going back through the years whenever something comes out to help our trade (mixing drill , collated screwgun, ...) it makes rates come down.Done mate in 2hrs 50, no lie I had another job this morning in a bathroom somewhere else I got here around 12pm
Just at a quote now
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I'm saying that I'd be waiting around a long time for PVA to dry and then it'd be a 3hour gauging.same as uni then, vince said 2hrs 50, there is zero need for this gear.
Both jobs had horse hair & lime under painted surface, maybe that?!!I get you , I wouldn’t worry about the others for ones tbh , proper got me stumped yours have , no lie on a lot of jobs I’ve tried to make it fall off , tested it on bricks,tile,chip paper , easifill, glass, steal , dry bone plaster with rapid 45 minutes set everything I could possibly think to get it to drop the only one that ever dropped was a loose paint that I knew would come off , it was still stuck to the paint and I knew it would come off , that’s why I’m stumped with yours , even hstokes that they said was on to thick , well it can be , any skim can even though in real life we bosh it on thicker and get away with it ,
I’ll get hammered now but f**k it , really hope it’s just those 2 mate
Think I preferred the artex finish!!!!!lolDone mate in 2hrs 50, no lie I had another job this morning in a bathroom somewhere else I got here around 12pm
Just at a quote now
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