Victorian jumbo cove

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I've gone to price a job on a Victorian house today and it has oversized cove (it's original and probably twice the size of cove 127).
i may need to replace a metre or two of it and wondered if anyone knows if it's possible to buy off the shelf.
i kinda hope it's not as i can probably charge him less for replacing it all with 127 than having to make a running mould and running it in-situ,let alone not damaging the rest of it when hacking all the walls off.
 
Cheers but casting it myself or paying someone else to will cost too much,as the bulk the cost would be making a running mould and reverse mould.
steve what do you mean by running it off the exsisting cove?
i think it's gonna be cheaper to re cove the lot unless i can remove the piece i'm covering(building stud wall over one side of a chimney breast).
 
if you've got a 2 bits of coving with a gap in the middle you could fill out the gap and rule off both pieces of existing coving.
 
ADS said:
Cheers but casting it myself or paying someone else to will cost too much,as the bulk the cost would be making a running mould and reverse mould.
steve what do you mean by running it off the exsisting cove?
i think it's gonna be cheaper to re cove the lot unless i can remove the piece i'm covering(building stud wall over one side of a chimney breast).
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cant see him wanting smaller stuff in a large vic terrace it would look stupid.
 
flynnyman said:
ADS said:
Cheers but casting it myself or paying someone else to will cost too much,as the bulk the cost would be making a running mould and reverse mould.
steve what do you mean by running it off the exsisting cove?
i think it's gonna be cheaper to re cove the lot unless i can remove the piece i'm covering(building stud wall over one side of a chimney breast).
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cant see him wanting smaller stuff in a large vic terrace it would look stupid.
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no more stupid than the rooms he already got it in.
 
steve cov said:
if you've got a 2 bits of coving with a gap in the middle you could fill out the gap and rule off both pieces of existing coving.
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no it's external to an internal but i suppose if it'd stay together i could cut a piece off and move it to the internal then rule between the two,but at this stage i don't even no if it's been run in situ or not.
oh and i wanna charge £££s for doing that.
 
flynnyman said:
ADS said:
Cheers but casting it myself or paying someone else to will cost too much,as the bulk the cost would be making a running mould and reverse mould.
steve what do you mean by running it off the exsisting cove?
i think it's gonna be cheaper to re cove the lot unless i can remove the piece i'm covering(building stud wall over one side of a chimney breast).
Click to expand...

cant see him wanting smaller stuff in a large vic terrace it would look stupid.
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it looks bizarre anyway as the ceilings are only 2.5m and it's only gonna be a spare room eventually so i don't think he gives a s**t.
 
this might sound stupid but what if you built an 85mm frame, used standard 127mm cove along the bottom edge and 127 ogee on the top edge lapping the lower edge of the ogee over the top edge of the cove..

prolly never make it work...
idea's there though.. ;D
and ive always wanted to try it...works for timber..
 
Chris W said:
this might sound stupid but what if you built an 85mm frame, used standard 127mm cove along the bottom edge and 127 ogee on the top edge lapping the lower edge of the ogee over the top edge of the cove..

prolly never make it work...
idea's there though.. ;D
and ive always wanted to try it...works for timber..
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Good idea but would that not just make it look a cornice???or am i lost? ::)
 
ADS said:
Chris W said:
this might sound stupid but what if you built an 85mm frame, used standard 127mm cove along the bottom edge and 127 ogee on the top edge lapping the lower edge of the ogee over the top edge of the cove..

prolly never make it work...
idea's there though.. ;D
and ive always wanted to try it...works for timber..
Click to expand...
Good idea but would that not just make it look a cornice???or am i lost? ::)
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well yeh but better than a giant cove..
prolly look sh'te on a ceiling only 8 foot high anyway..

or what about sort of running it in situ but use bonding and finish and a bit of plasterboard dabbed in the back corner to save on bonding? templates gonna be easy enough to make...
 
steve cov said:
if its just a larger coving then surely it should be a piece of (french word) to run in situ?
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yeah but i've still gotta make a running mould and lime putty then actually do it.
i wanna convince him to let over board the ceiling as it looks s**t,tell him the price to match the cove may help nudge him in the right direction.
i'm just concerned that any other spreads pricing it may find a cheaper way.
Chris you say it won't take long but how long is not long?i reckon anywhere from 3hrs to a whole day,which either way i'd want alot of £££'s for! ;D
thanks for all the ideas so far everyone! :)
 
no need for lime surely. few bits of board to pack it out, some dab, plenty of bonding. finish it with easyfill.
 
steve cov said:
no need for lime surely. few bits of board to pack it out, some dab, plenty of bonding. finish it with easyfill.
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does easifill go over bonding ok ive just done one simlar about 10ft long and used knauf one coat it came out fine what about where the timber grounds go top an bottom would you just roun the easifill over them when the timber is removed
 
finish it with multi steve.. or as madmonk just said - wickes's one coat one hit...
still, like the man says, lot of messing around, good 1/2 day to a day depends how much there is to do..
cove a room out with 5" in an hour...
all depends on the price, some other spread might turn round to the customer and tell him just that, cheaper than full blown fibrous but dearer than 5", i'd put all the options to him and let him make the decision.... anything you dont really wanna do, whack the price up..
 
I never thought of using multi actually. you could use recove it with 5" but tell him to have those tacky strip things you put up first to make the coving bigger and more tacky..i mean authentic.
 
steve cov said:
I never thought of using multi actually. you could use recove it with 5" but tell him to have those tacky strip things you put up first to make the coving bigger and more tacky..i mean authentic.
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Oooh that'd be classy could just win me the job! ;D
 
i didnt think of 1 coat till madmonk mentioned it.. chuck some cement in it, be done in no time..

kinell... cowboy plasterers sponsored by 'the conservative/liberal party'... ;D ;D
 
Chris W said:
finish it with multi steve.. or as madmonk just said - wickes's one coat one hit...
still, like the man says, lot of messing around, good 1/2 day to a day depends how much there is to do..
cove a room out with 5" in an hour...
all depends on the price, some other spread might turn round to the customer and tell him just that, cheaper than full blown fibrous but dearer than 5", i'd put all the options to him and let him make the decision.... anything you dont really wanna do, whack the price up..
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the more i think about it the more i can't be arsed,now if it was commercial and i was on daywork.....
i think you're right i'll just give him all the options. :)
 
there are plenty of firms around making cornice

just take a profile to them---prob would have on shelf anyway

a lot less messing around cut,stick,fill

sorted
 
can you charge him to run it in your "workshop" Then copy the profile and get it made. The boys doing it all the time at a proper workshop will do it much quicker than you and not charge too much. Then you return with the new piece and fit it. You get paid for the time making it in the "workshop" whilst instead you were working elsewhere Double bubble
 
you wont get much change out of 400 quid by getting a shop to make it for you and i bet they wont have a reverse mould for it was probably run insitu
 
ADS said:
I've gone to price a job on a Victorian house today and it has oversized cove (it's original and probably twice the size of cove 127).
i may need to replace a metre or two of it and wondered if anyone knows if it's possible to buy off the shelf.
i kinda hope it's not as i can probably charge him less for replacing it all with 127 than having to make a running mould and running it in-situ,let alone not damaging the rest of it when hacking all the walls off.
Click to expand...
If you are hacking the walls off, be carefull and don't damage it. Think also you will find that it is well bonded to the brick work, and hard as foooking rock, the same when taking down plaster lath ceilings, spend a bit of time with a bolster breaking the joint of wall to ceiling.
 
del said:
If you are hacking the walls off, be carefull and don't damage it. Think also you will find that it is well bonded to the brick work, and hard as foooking rock, the same when taking down plaster lath ceilings, spend a bit of time with a bolster breaking the joint of wall to ceiling.
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then get get 3 metre in and miss completely with the hammer blowing a big f'koff hole in the cove.. ;D
 
im a fibrous hand and also run odd bits for other firms,
if its existing i doubt if you take a profile to a fibrous firm theyll have a match,as theres very rarely two cornices the same.back in the day the plasterers would do a row of terraces in situ then throw the mould away it was like there signiture.
as said prices will vary depends how many linear metres your after, id want about 120 a metre plus vat if i was making it from scratch
 
owls said:
im a fibrous hand and also run odd bits for other firms,
if its existing i doubt if you take a profile to a fibrous firm theyll have a match,as theres very rarely two cornices the same.back in the day the plasterers would do a row of terraces in situ then throw the mould away it was like there signiture.
as said prices will vary depends how many linear metres your after, id want about 120 a metre plus vat if i was making it from scratch
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how would you repair one owls if it was just say a metre or so
 
theres a couple of different ways of doing it to be honest depends on your budget and or quality of finished job.one way is to key the surface area plonk some tacks in,core it out with bonding to about 5 mm of existing cornice,and top it out with casting plas, set timber baterns out top and bottom as a guide make a profile out of zinc and a stock made out of timber and run it on your timbers, depends on length of replacing section. a good guide is in the jb taylor book as it explains the process in laymans terms.i take its not a decrative patern like an egg and dart.
 
tack a battern on the wall and ceiling the depth of the existing cove , then cut a length of plasterboard to fit between the batterns the length you wish to cove, now score the back of the plasterboard down the length about 4 or 5 times 1" to 2" apart, depending on the size of the cove, now snap the plasterboard down the score lines, dot some bonding on the scored side of the plasterboard,now fix it between the batterns it should now resemble a cove shape,shape it up with bonding and rule it off to the batterns when you are happy with the shape skim the cove to the batterns, take the batterns off and skim the returns using a small tool
 
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