Weber OCR

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For what its worth, I generally leave it till next day and then go at it with an 8mm nail float to give a dimpled finish

Only ever used Pral M, can anyone advise on how else to finish Weber ? I've heard it rubs up with a sponge like S&C - any other suggestions, just trying to broaden my horizons ?

Cheers
 
would imagine its the same as cpi.......which we spray, serrated derby, featheredge rule, magic sponge, spat voila all on the same day. That's for a base for a thin finish though and comes up like external skimming
 
you shouldnt spat it this will bring cement fats to surface weakening the product
 
grand wizard said:
you shouldnt spat it this will bring cement fats to surface weakening the product
Click to expand...

aww no my Wifes gonna kill me!!!!!!!

I hate scraping back it seems a waste of time and material
 
you treat ocr like traditional sand and cement, (it is sand and cement with a few additives) whack it on, rule it off and rub it up!
 
if im buying it ill do what i like with it , i was just saying its nearly same finish scraped and sponged so i find it quicker and easier to scrape back for a perfectly flat finish
 
cos if you read it, it says its a sand cement and lime render. i'm not gonna press the point, but you're wrong!
 
another know it all have you tried scraping it back with an I section no well untill you do button it its mono with no colour end of i was just letting people know it can be scraped back the topic is OCR not sand and cement
 
don't get stressed kingy. you're right, i've never scraped ocr cos i've always got a good finish with a float and sponge. i can't find anything on the net (or the bags) that say scrape it so why would i?.

spongebob, i know mono is also sand and cement, i thought scraping was just for coloured renders.

see, i'm not a know it all..
 
im not getting stressed at all im far to layed back for that once again ill say it again i was informing people that it can be scraped back with i section and gives a very good finish i can show some pics of jobs ive done in it if anyones interested ? just coz it doesnt say scrape it doesnt mean you cant
 
kingy i used to scrape back basecoats ready for a thincoat finish like you say. the only thing is it's quite wastefull and you have to wait for it to firm up enough so as not to rip it to pieces.

Because of this we now spray and serrated rule like mono but tight to the beads for speed, then get the featheredge on it which fine tunes it, then we use the magic sponge on it from the guy on ebay who sells the quoin cutters, then spat it but not like mono more at a sharp angle once firm enough which flattens further then close in at a shallower angle. We've used this technique even over riblath( with mesh in as well) and there's not one hairline crack in it anywhere and that's on a timber frame. All done by 4ish with no spoil or waste from scratching/i sectioning.
 
i'd like to see some pics plaster king.

goody, what are those sponges like and how are they different?
 
about 200M left mate been a right chew cos of the way its constructed out of woodchip blocks which are dry stacked and then have rebar dropped in and pumped with concrete the problem with this is they kick all over and over three floors the door casings and window heads are all over the shop hence when weve been boarding the window reavels were having to pick the highpoint on the wall usually the head add 10-12mm for the onecoat and cut the reveals same all the wy round but this means on some of the walls your ending up with upto 30mm which you obviously have to carry through the wall best you can not good at all also the door cases my have 30 mm at btm and fook all at top nightmare mate believe me just gotto strike a happy medium with it all basiclly were left to make the building look right client says he will never use this block system again and believe it or not there not cheaper then breeze
 
@ steve

Weber OCR


Weber OCR


Weber OCR


Weber OCR
 
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