weber rend aid

Members online

Total: 629 (members: 8, guests: 621)

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
I

iain_flanagan

New Member
have a job to do in weber pral m,needs to have a coat of rend aid first,whats the rend aid like to apply ,the job is also on a main street whats the best way of mixing the pral m
 
Rend aids' alright to apply use a roller and give a good key, artex rollers do the job pretty well,  it will stiffen a bit with standing just whisk it dont add more water than needs be,mix a bit wetter than render. If im hand applying i mix it in a cut down water barrel, TBH you'll get more mess from scraping the top coat.
 
cheers for that used the pral m before but it was on a new build and it was stoned ready for paving so mess didnt matter different ball game with joe public ,how longs the life on the rend aid once its mixed up
 
also property is on a very busy road which has a lot of lorries on,it has caused the existing render to become hollow,do you think rend aid will hold
 
Rend aid is s##t hot stuff ive used it on engineering brick and the renders still on, are you sure vibration caused it to come loose?
 
probably not completley down to vibration,but the house is about 150 years old and only about 6 feet from the road,worked next door on a refurb i tell you when those trucks go by, hold on to the best china
 
just chopped of the rest of the existing render,took 2 days o f sweat and tears,would i have to dampen the brickwork down before applying the rend aid or just get it straight on,bricks have quite a lot of suction
 
Dont damp down the bricks too much if at all. The damp in the air will have put moisture in the bricks. Make sure there is no dust on the surface. Rend aid is one of those products that does not seem to be effected by suction.

At this time of year it will stay liquid for quite a while in the tub.

I apply it 3mm thick and use an artex roller but a good scratch should be ok just don't tell Weber if things go wrong.

And like Keithuk says, keep clean, it sticks to everything.

Most big merchants should be able to get it in for by order but also try the big insulation merchants like Minster, SIG or Sheffield Insulations, they might stock it.

Also at this time of year you might get lime bloom because of the damp air. Google lime bloom in coloured cement renders and download a good copy. Either show it your customer to outline the risks before hand or have it handy for when it happens. Try and make sure it isn't going to rain within 3 days of scraping back.
 
Last edited:
It doesn't stick to everything mate I foolishly used it to stick some plastic render stop beads on a while back and within a few days they'd popped off with a bit of persuasion
parex par inter renovation is the one that sticks to painted surfaces not bloody rend aid
 
Just been reading your feedback in general guys.. very interesting. I've moved house 6 months ago and my bricks are shailing far worse than i thought when i first saw. 2 plasterers have come to look at the job, one says mesh and build to monocouch finish, the other reckons rend aid and traditional render finish is equally as good. My house wall is a mess and need to get this done right first time.. Any advice PLEASE!!!
 
Both options are viable if your second man is referring to weber ocr as the traditional finish. It all depends which finish you prefer and your budget.
 
Thank you for your response. My main concern is that it stays on the wall and not get moister behind that may cause it to blow off. As for the finish, the 2nd man maintains that the traditional way is as good as monocouch, having said that, he also said he's never done monocouch. My main concern is based purely on which one will stay on and not crack or blow off! last thing i want is a patch up as they can look awfull..
 
Also, 2nd man said he would use BIS product for the render. I'm assuming he means the finish..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top