whats best approach for bathroom walls??

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fair one, splashback around the bath, obviously no shower fitted, so no constant stream of water..
same with the sink..
not directing this at anybody but how many of you have actually been and done a refurb job where youve got the whole lot? i.e. complete rip out and refit of a bathroom, tiles off to find soggy board wetrot infested studwork leading to mould in the adjoining room etc...
i have... on quite a few occasions... as i said before i speak from experience...
i did just this on a bathroom about 2 years ago..
the bathroom was an extension..
the floor was concrete with jablite on top with 22mm chipboard on that..
the walls were shuttering ply on studs, next door was a bedroom..
the reason i was there to do the job in the first place was this - the floor was like walking on a sponge, over the years the overflow had leaked where it joins the waste assembly under the bath and soaked into the flooring and built up in the jablite till it was like a pool under the boards, then it attacked the board (no, 22mm 8x2 chipboard isnt waterproof)
it had also started to soak up the walls around the bath area, completely wrecking the shuttering ply, soaking into the studs and started to destroy the plasterboard of the adjoining room..
complete and utter rip out... the wall came down and got rebuilt, we used marine ply, wrapped the sole plate of the studwork in polythene, the floor came out and got screeded then the whole thing was retiled at a total cost of around 2 and a half grand..
the bloke was an ex boxer, ran a haulage firm in moulton chapel, lincolnshire and i wouldnt wanna have been the bloke who built that extension...
 
understand fully mate, done a few myself, and the ceiling below, some of these houses only 2 years old, some less if had a shower fitted, obvious tiled, but not sealed around the bath properly ,.
 
Hi Spunky i know where you are coming from but you probably work for money oriented developers, i dont call them builders anymore.I understand that on site you work under instruction, ive worked on hundreds of sites in the U.K. and been site manager myself so i know what goes on but it dosent make it right.When you work for private customers as i do now for instance building a shower area it has to be spot on the last thing you need is a call back especialy when water is involved, it takes along time to get a good name and 5 minutes to lose it why do you think these tanking systems exist.I must admit if a shower is prepped properly and tiled properly it realy shouldnt leak but the tanking is their to prevent water damage if the tiling fails, i explain this to my customers and let the make their mind up.As i said before bonding has no place in wet areas and why skim a shower area which is being tiled.
Here are the reccomended weight ratios for tiling on to surfaces if you do private work and class yourself professional you should be aware of these.

Skimmed plaster 20kgm2
Plasterboard 32kgm2
Render 40kgm2
Tile backer board 62kgm2

Bigsy you mentioned using P.V.A. as a primer for tiling, their isnt an adhesive manufacturer in the world which would guarrantee their product if you used P.V.A. their have been to many failures you have to use what they reccomend normal Acryllic or S.B.R. The only time i use P.V.A. IS skim on skim and ive never had a problem but at the end of the day it is wood glue so why not use the proper bonding agents.I have an interesting article on P.V.A. somewhere i will post it when i find it, now going to sit on my balcony in the sun with this bottle of Rioja.
Regards Lucius
 
good post lucius, fancy doing a bit uin the faq with the recommended wieght limit thing?
i honestly didnt kknow your not spposed to tile over pva.. ive been doin it years so there you go, ive learnt sommat again..
are those acrylic adhesives alright on pva though? my local tiling shop does one called 'white grip' its fantastic for mosaics...
 
The primers are acrylic not the addies i will put what you ask on the FAQ the weekend, banged out at the moment and she is hassling me to finish the down stairs toilet cos we got fammily coming over soon, i hate fammily they just drink my beer.
Lucius
 
no seriously mate, on the white grip tub it says acrylic adhesive.. dunno if its bond strength is any good but it smells, looks and feels very similar to 'painters mate'..
only one i know that is though.. and its dirt cheap...
nice one with the faq mate.. i dont do familiy either ;D
 
napper83 said:
If you are going to use MR boards you need to gyp bond the boards before skimming
Click to expand...

Is this true? I thought they could be skimmed just like any other board.
 
perfectly true, what it means is theres no suction with mr boards, you need to create a key, (see create a key in the faq)..
 
i usually approach them from the far left with sneaking tip toe action.....




nobody?




anybody?








just me then :D
 
well ill guess it is anyway, its only gonna be sand cement and additives after all i just like the idea for them little bathroom type jobs... sod the mixer..
 
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