Which boards for a fully tiled bathroom
- Thread starter herds
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Arti
Well-Known Member
12.5mm for the ceiling/walls i would just use normal boards.Are you skimming them or just tiling straight into the board? maybe tilers like to spec their own boards if ya not skimming them..................:RpS_unsure:
Is this gonna be another 3 page thread like your bay window one Herds...............:rolleyes). Have you finished that yet?
Is this gonna be another 3 page thread like your bay window one Herds...............:rolleyes). Have you finished that yet?
Aqua boards in the shower area and normal boards with a tight skim will be sound or you can pay extra and get moisture boards.
I'll have to check with the plumber in that case about what he likes. Be nice to know what you guys would do.
The bay window was done months ago, I predict this being a 2 page thread, maybe more if i'm feeling generous.
walls:
is this right:
moisture board = more expensive but no need to skim before tiling
regular board = cheaper need to skim before tiling
Ceiling
just use regular board.
Arti
Well-Known Member
how tight is a tight skim flynnymarra................:RpS_confused:
Niro06
Member
CTPlastering
Well-Known Member
Its just more piece of mind with the moisture boards . . . . Your pocket will be lighter though. Quite a difference in price, to be honest though there's no real problem with just normal 12.5 board it will all be sealed after its been tiled
johniosaif
Private Member
Use normal and waterproof them, this is the way in2013 and previous yrs.
johniosaif
Private Member
For mice ? Other than mice no, gap is different thing ,render off solid concrete floor,
Niro06
Member
Skimming is purely to provide a decorative surface, If I recall correctly Drylined walls maximum 32KG per M2 tile weight and skimmed walls 20KG per M2
the floor in the bathroom is ply, then tiled.
offtopic - but for some reason I thought that when you're boarding to a concrete floor to leave a gap at the bottom to stop damp. Thinking about it if a gap is left then skirt is added it kinda renders leaving a gap in the first place pointless?
offtopic - but for some reason I thought that when you're boarding to a concrete floor to leave a gap at the bottom to stop damp. Thinking about it if a gap is left then skirt is added it kinda renders leaving a gap in the first place pointless?
Artisan998 - i think this may only be a 2 page thread 
saying that, i've not even got the boards yet, and then theres fans to add, downlights (when to add these) etc etc so you never know, maybe we could have a 6 pager on our hands.
saying that, i've not even got the boards yet, and then theres fans to add, downlights (when to add these) etc etc so you never know, maybe we could have a 6 pager on our hands.
jeanclaudevangyproc
Well-Known Member
you put packers down when you board 1 to keep board off the floor 2 so you can move /apply board with more ease try to cut a board tight to ceiling and floor and tap it back = problems
raggles
Private Member
No it don't cos strictly speaking Floor boards if fitted correctly by a joiner who knows his/her stuff they should not be touching the floor either ! :RpS_thumbup:
raggles
Private Member
That should read skirting boards not floor boards :RpS_unsure:
Runswithscissors
Private Member
Hi Herds
see the attached - ISSUU - Knauf Aquapanel Interior by Knauf
TBH - best thing to do is let your Tiler choose the boards the they want to tile onto..... they know the tiles and adhesive, so size and weight of tiles will dictate backing....
good luck!
see the attached - ISSUU - Knauf Aquapanel Interior by Knauf
TBH - best thing to do is let your Tiler choose the boards the they want to tile onto..... they know the tiles and adhesive, so size and weight of tiles will dictate backing....
good luck!
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