which plasterboard and how to enclose steel beams

mundungus said:
No, I'm not about to hire one of those. In a geeky way I like playing with power tools, just never come across something that can punch a nail through 10mm of steel. That must be frightening to hold onto?
Click to expand...

I think there gas powered .....first time i went shooting i was 19 ....after an hour of it i got bored !!!!
Theres no difference.....just alot of noise.
 
mundungus said:
We didn't go with one firm for everything, but took good recommendations for the trades we have used so far, and have been more than happy with the quality of the work from all of them. They all know their stuff, but perhaps our naivety of the building trade and the poor descriptions on quotes apparently leaves large gaps between what each trade has signed up for, which all can be sorted out for a price... The architect/structural engineer has been overseeing the project, but obviously his time costs too.

We haven't changed anything from the original plans ourselves.

A couple of examples.
Day three of the ground workers on site, one of them says. "what about the oversight? The boss doesn't usually include that in his quotes." I had no idea what 'oversight' was so had to google it. Apparently, the foundations concrete stops a couple of feet below ground level, 'oversight' is the name given to the few tonnes of earth that's higher than the concrete level within the boundary of the building. They can remove it (within half a day as it turns out) for the sum of about 2.6k. That and the fact that certain parts of the foundations needed to be deeper than the plans said due to tree roots, meant the ground works was a few thousand over budget. They then tried to fleece us 4.5k more for the surface drainage (rain water) that was explicitly excluded from the original quote. £5k to dig a hole and fill with peas shingle? (we declined, I'll dig it by hand for 5k)

Another example.
Just last week, we've paid for the soffit and fascias. We had already committed to the windows colour, and wanted these to match. Who'd have thought that a dozen lengths of plastic could cost over 2 grand? I priced the guttering for the whole house at about £100 from Wickes, for a similar amount of plastic. But again, with the roofers saying they are being held up by the chippy, who is waiting to fit the soffit and fascias just as soon as they turn up, we feel like we're paying ransom prices again to keep things moving.

The list goes on.
Click to expand...
Been here myself and most on here see budgets get out of hand on daily basis this part of the project is the final push needed to complete there isn't much else I can recommend really after your honesty all I can say is I would probably be doing that downstairs for 1-2 weeks,maybe wait till you can get funds for a plasterer to do it even if it's a year or two to get it done properly.
 
Sounds like ur dealing with conmen..least u know if u do owt again in future..gud luck anyway u seem a reasonable guy so hope u get sorted but having a quick look at ur pics uve got a few days 2 spreads so it wudnt cost the earth
 
theplasterman said:
:wtf:
Come on , they same carcus as any other , I hate ikea snobs :wtf:

I think you just starting on me now because my way is better than yours. :maraca:

You lot are getting me mad now.. :musculoso:

Tbh I starting to think most of you haven't got a clue what your on about
Click to expand...

Not sure why you took my comments on ikea kitchens personally Vince.

I fitted 2 ikea kitchens 9 and 7 yrs ago. Perhaps they're better quality now. Perhaps I was just unlucky.

Issues I had were:- no space for services behind carcasses. Missing fittings and fixtures. Door hinges not lining up on carcasses and doors. Warped cornice.
 
Pug said:
Not sure why you took my comments on ikea kitchens personally Vince.

I fitted 2 ikea kitchens 9 and 7 yrs ago. Perhaps they're better quality now. Perhaps I was just unlucky.

Issues I had were:- no space for services behind carcasses. Missing fittings and fixtures. Door hinges not lining up on carcasses and doors. Warped cornice.
Click to expand...
Only messing pug mate
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pug
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but some really useful info in here.

I'm having a detached garage built at the moment with a steel where the flat roof joins a pitched roof. It's been built with consideration for a future conversion to a habitable space, so the Steel sits in-line with the timbers, rather than below them. So I can easily fire-board one side and the bottom of the steel, but how do I/do I need to protect the other side? ie, do I need to put small sections of fire board inbetween every timber, or should I just extend it across the whole of the flat roof section?

Cheers
Andy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top