Which render?

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danb

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Hi,

Im just nearly finishing off my new build in scotland, we had originally planned for krend smooth finish.

What can people recommend?

The render will be going onto dense block. My bricklayer hasnt done the smooth finish krend before.

I had a look at the powerwall scraped render.

I am just wanting a finish that is low maintenance and does not need painting, budget is an issue too so can't be too expensive.

Cheers
 
Stay away from mono renders as they get stinking in no time. Parex are bringing out a clear sealer called aquasol I think which is designed to stop mono staining but not sure on price of using that.
 
As long as the render has been applied correctly and the detailing on the building is good a scratch render will last years. Only needed light hose down from time to time. The K Rend product has an agaecide within it which will slow down algae growth. Also the Silicone in the product will keep the building dryer for longer hence keeping building cleaner for longer.
 
Danb don't use mono at plinth level and like bumblebee says there coloured no paint but they will need a hose down every now and then or they will get hanging, 99 percent of plasterers would use parex it's a bigger bag so costs work out roughly the same
 
spunky said:
Why not
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Manufacturers spec nominal thickness 15mm one coat 2 passes on new block work.

The reasons to prevent brickwork showing through, premature curing, colour variations.

Personally I wouldn't cut corners on my jobs to save a bit of money on materials, especially with a through colour renders as the cost of rectifying the work could finish you.
 
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you've changed you're tune on the phone you were telling me you cant take a Job unless I help because you've never done it before and you don't want to 2 coat anything because you're worried about halos so know you think you can lay it on 18mm by hand in one pass and all of a sudden you're an expert telling me I'm cutting corners?
 
FreeD said:
Manufacturers spec nominal thickness 15mm one coat 2 passes on new block work.

The reasons to prevent brickwork showing through, premature curing, colour variations.

Personally I wouldn't cut corners on my jobs to save a bit of money on materials, especially with a through colour renders as the cost of rectifying the work could finish you.
Click to expand...

all your posts seem to be guidance from render manufactorers web sites :RpS_confused:
 
if you rule your first pass, you wont get halos, so if you give it 2 good passes it wont be an issue.
misses with parex will be your only concern.
 
Dave i'm not being funny but you should be clearer in your posts. They way you worded it before sounded like you were saying it was ok to put 10mm direct to blockwork.
 
in my opinion krend is not the best for hand app, powerwall classic stone is, its far nicer to work with and alot better to scrape back. and its cheaper.

dand, you wont get a good job no matter what you use to render if you let a bloody bricky do the job, most brickies i no can hardly even lay blocks bang on let alone lay a render on.

where in scotland are you building
 
owls said:
all your posts seem to be guidance from render manufactorers web sites :RpS_confused:
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I take stuff from the manufacturers website to help the poster and make it clearer for them to understand. I know what it feels like when people give you the wrong advice. Simply trying to help.
 
What I want to know is how all these manufacturers manage to get enough business to stay in business eveytime I come on here people speak of a different company, Parex, Krend, Pwall, STO, Wetherby, weber etc etc etc
 
down to preferance, experience of product and cost as to which manufactorer you prefer.
sto are the original,but its an old boys club with them, you will not get with them, and thus because of there riduclous ideas there are loosing market share, and there are now better options about anyhow
ive used most about but my preferance is parex gear.
 
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chatting to parex rep couple of days ago and he said they have brought out a product called ultra guard(clear coat sealer) for monorex etc, can be sprayed or rolled on and works out approx £1 sqm.
any one used it??
 
Im on the west coast of scotland. While i know what your saying about bricklayers i pretty sure he will do the job right. Everything he has done has been bob on, i laboured for him and his bubble was practically attached to him and hese been doing bricklaying and roughcasting for over 30 years.

Does the parex monorex work out cheaper than the krend? is it a smooth finish?

Thanks for the help ^^
 
you can ring parex and they will let you know who stocks It in you're area, ask the outlets if they've got any colour samples you can see in the flesh
 
use basecoat render and then top it off with a coloured thin coat acrylic/silicone finish, much better for the northern climate
 
let me no if you would like the parex reps number for your area ? where abouts on west coast are you
 
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