Window protection

Jgreenplastering

Jgreenplastering

Private Member
Further to the other post about tape what protection do you lot use for the Windows?

We've always used window protector rolls but I see a lot of people with plastic sheeting they cut and tape?

Is this easier/cheaper/better?

With white upvc you don't need to be so precise but with say anthracite or dark wooden window, do you guys tape them
Right up and then cut back carefully once set to remove the tape without leaving some along the render line or do you stick it on precise and scrape back to you so you have a clean line?
 
I've used corex at times for Windows and a low tack tape but can always a pain if lot of dust on Windows,frog tape is pretty good on internals i always sheet the windows up with polythene a good one though not that stuff thats like tissue paper,I'd rather go over kill than think I can wash down its down to experience and few lessons learnt along the way,it's hour or two sheeting up or 3 hours cleaning I should invest in the sticky window protection stuff that a few of you boys use really maybe on next one
 
Pagey said:
I've used corex at times for Windows and a low tack tape but can always a pain if lot of dust on Windows,frog tape is pretty good on internals i always sheet the windows up with polythene a good one though not that stuff thats like tissue paper,I'd rather go over kill than think I can wash down its down to experience and few lessons learnt along the way,it's hour or two sheeting up or 3 hours cleaning I should invest in the sticky window protection stuff that a few of you boys use really maybe on next one
Click to expand...

The sticky stuff is what we usually use. Luckily all the dark coloured windows are either re painted or got the film still on.
Just find if we're finished and it needs cutting it can take some of the render out then needs filling with cheese to finish again
 
Jgreenplastering said:
The sticky stuff is what we usually use. Luckily all the dark coloured windows are either re painted or got the film still on.
Just find if we're finished and it needs cutting it can take some of the render out then needs filling with cheese to finish again
Click to expand...
Things that annoy me are when people don't cover the mitres in the Windows they are a pain to clean but takes seconds to cover
 
Drop down blows off when windy I find
Direct building sell 100m of sticky window protector and then tape around the window frames with blue dolphin [emoji106]



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Do Wack sell this window stuff I've had a few calls off them lately and seem desperate to sell some stuff
 
Drop film plastic taped down with orange brick tape, tape precisely up to where the render will meet, tape must be cut with scissors not ripped or I flip my lid. The orange tape is tough enough protection for the window when the planes running up and down the reveal.
 
We use gaffa tape around the outside of the window, then blue window protection upto the gaffa. Once reveals are finished sharp stanley round the outside.

If you take your time at the start should be good for the whole job, we silicone afterwards.
 
Wezly said:
Drop film plastic taped down with orange brick tape, tape precisely up to where the render will meet, tape must be cut with scissors not ripped or I flip my lid. The orange tape is tough enough protection for the window when the planes running up and down the reveal.
Click to expand...

How easy is it to get precise though? Specially if your labs are doing it for you? 15mm or how ever far out the bead is sounds easier than it is to do?
 
Jgreenplastering said:
I use that for fascia and below dpc etc but windows still sussing what's best.
Click to expand...

Most of our customers use this with the Orange or blue tape down the edges.

Or we have the 500mm x 100m light blue film. It's got 100% adhesion and is low tack. Ours is a higher micron strength compared to other on the market so you get a better level of protection
 
Pagey said:
Liable to wash render away and could stain Windows and cause a load of grief I'm surprised you didn't say take the window out then replace once rendered
Click to expand...
That's to much work. Just do what I do and don't get any on the windows :rolleyes:
 
theclemo said:
That's to much work. Just do what I do and don't get any on the windows :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I can't help myself I get it on the Windows,I am the sort of bloke who can stare at a Tin of paint that's not even open and get it all over me I'm not the messiest but defo not one of the lords who don't drop any
 
Plasterers1StopShop said:
Most of our customers use this with the Orange or blue tape down the edges.

Or we have the 500mm x 100m light blue film. It's got 100% adhesion and is low tack. Ours is a higher micron strength compared to other on the market so you get a better level of protection
Click to expand...
That's a typical salesman quote
'Ours is better than everyone else's!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jgreenplastering said:
How easy is it to get precise though? Specially if your labs are doing it for you? 15mm or how ever far out the bead is sounds easier than it is to do?
Click to expand...
use stop beads up against the windows Jordan. that gives you a nice line to fix ur masking to. It takes a bit longer to bead but when it comes to finishing the reveals its much faster and you can leave them to anyone because their foolproof.
For masking use a double sided duo tape and select the correct sized drop film, stick some to the glass aswell to stop it blowing about and use some cheap gaffa /pvc tape to tidy up round the sills etc
I use a bosch 2" 10.8 v mini grinder and CT1 power grab and bond for beading and i've not found a quicker way in all the years i been doing it.
 
PFTwales said:
use stop beads up against the windows Jordan. that gives you a nice line to fix ur masking to. It takes a bit longer to bead but when it comes to finishing the reveals its much faster and you can leave them to anyone because their foolproof.
For masking use a double sided duo tape and select the correct sized drop film, stick some to the glass aswell to stop it blowing about and use some cheap gaffa /pvc tape to tidy up round the sills etc
I use a bosch 2" 10.8 v mini grinder and CT1 power grab and bond for beading and i've not found a quicker way in all the years i been doing it.
Click to expand...

I do like that method it's just clients will expect it siliconed after.
 
Wezly said:
Drop film plastic taped down with orange brick tape, tape precisely up to where the render will meet, tape must be cut with scissors not ripped or I flip my lid. The orange tape is tough enough protection for the window when the planes running up and down the reveal.
Click to expand...
How long would you get with orange tape through before the problems getting it off?
I find this masking thing a constant problem doing mostly thin coat. Jobs can go on for weeks.
 
PFTwales said:
charge em for it, they look neat if the stop bead is against the window. then theres APU beads .google them
Click to expand...
Window protection
 
Rossi46 said:
How long would you get with orange tape through before the problems getting it off?
I find this masking thing a constant problem doing mostly thin coat. Jobs can go on for weeks.
Click to expand...
No problems, even when left in the baking sun for a couple of weeks in summer.
 
FreeD said:
Alright bud get the Rhino tape from Toolstation, we have ledft it on for 8 weeks before with the ball of fire on it everyday and never had a problem taking it off or residue
Click to expand...
Nice! I'll give it a go. Cheers mate (y)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top